2017 Clinet
France
Pomerol
Bordeaux
Red
92% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon
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2022 - 2030
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At Château Clinet I was joined by Monique, Ronan Laborde’s “better half” whilst in the adjoining room, a vociferous Chinese gentleman raved not about Clinet, but their wine from Tokaji, Château Pajzos. Ignoring the noise, it was heads down to examine the latest release. “We were a little touched by the frost,” Monique Laborde told me, “but some of the affected vines don’t go into the Grand Vin anyway. In the end we are around 15% down compared to last year because the flowering was very good, especially the old vines around the church. So the final yield was not too bad.” One other subtle change here is the use of larger 500-litre barrels for around one-quarter of the crop. I find it perplexing that given the large volume of many Bordeaux estates, few have really experimented with alternative-sized barrels, whether cigar-shaped or demi-muids or Stockinger foudres. Not that I anticipate or wish a funeral pyre of traditional barriques, but I just would have expected to see a little more variety by 2017 as a means of controlling the influence of wood onto the wine. Whilst the introduction of new barrels here does not prescribe a superior wine, it just gives them another option in the winery. With respect to the 2017, incidentally raised in 72% new oak, we are looking at a more “athletic” Clinet, the alcohol dialed down a whole degree from the 2016, nicely detailed with a linear and structured finish that is less opulent than recent vintages, yet I feel it successfully translates the style of the vintage in Pomerol. Clinet often puts on more weight during its élevage and so I look forward to re-tasting this once in bottle.
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