2022 La Noue

Claude Riffault is a shining star in Sancerre, producing suave, texturally intriguing, seemingly effortless wines. Riffault joined the family business in 2001 and was handed over the keys in 2015. In 2008, Stéphane Riffault, Claude’s father, started hand harvesting, a change that has refined its wines. In 2013, the family moved its 15 hectares to organics, achieving certification in 2016, which led to biodynamic conversion, starting in 2018 (2021 was the first fully biodynamic harvest). All the white wines (it does have 2ha of Pinot Noir) are fermented and aged in large wood. Malolactic fermentation has always been avoided, but in 2023, the single vineyard wines Les Chailloux and Les Chasseignes went through malo before the alcohol fermentation had finished. This gives a softer, creamier note that was not previously present and loses an element of unique terroir identity, particularly the flint-derived Les Chailloux. Riffault also noted that in 2023, he was very careful to spot volatile acidity due to high population of acetic acid and lactic bacteria. In 2023, the domaine cuvée Mosaique Calaire spent less time in oak and more time in tank due to the logistics of a big and fast harvest. This adjustment was made also to maintain freshness in this lower acid vintage due to the September heatwave. Gentle pressing was also a must in 2023 as the later juice has lower acidity. Anyway, Riffault rejected 5-10% of the juice and sent it for distillation.

The two monoparcelles ‘469’ and ‘538’ show a fresher, more energetic side in 2023 compared with the more calming 2022s. They were picked early and avoided malo, keeping that tension and length while still undergoing élevage in barrel. The 2022 Pinot Noir La Noue is ripe and rich with 100% whole bunches.