2016 Brunello di Montalcino
$65 (2020)
Italy
Castelnuovo Dell'abate, Montalcino
Tuscany
Red
Sangiovese (2020 vintage)
00
2016
2024 - 2036
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2020
2026 - 2034
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2019
2026 - 2033
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2018
2024 - 2031
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2017
2026 - 2040
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2015
2024 - 2032
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2014
2022 - 2030
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2013
2023 - 2033
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2012
2022 - 2032
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2011
2018 - 2028
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Paolo Bianchini excels with rich, sumptuous Brunellos that capture the generosity that is such a signature of the southern end of Montalcino. The wines are dense, extracted and powerful. As such, they will appeal most to readers who prize immediacy and size. In 2011 Bianchini bottled only one Brunello, a wise choice that resulted in a superb wine. The 2010 Riserva is certainly a fine Brunello, but like too many of these wines, the rationale for bottling it is not especially obvious, nor is the decision to keep the wine in cask for four full years. I also tasted Ciacci's entry-level wines, which are average, and not especially of note. Brunello is where Bianchini's heart lies. That is, in addition to his outsize passion for bike racing. Also tasted: 2013 Montecucco Sangiovese, 2013 Ateo, 2013 Fabius.
00
2010
2015 - 2025
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I was deeply impressed with the Brunellos I tasted this year at Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona. Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has done a tremendous job in righting the ship after a brief period a few years ago in which quality was uneven. The Ciacci Brunellos are classic wines from Castelnuovo dell'Abate, which means they are built on textural warmth, richness and volume, all influences of nearby Maremma. The other wines in the range are a bit mixed, perhaps an indication as to what this estate is really best suited to. In top vintages, Ciacci makes three Brunellos, all from their Pianrosso estate, a site with veins of limestone on a bed of clay. The straight Brunello is often delicious and it also ages very well, partly because the shorter time in barrel helps maintain freshness. The top two Brunellos, the Pianrosso and the Riserva Santa Caterina d'Oro are both richer and spend more time in cask. The Brunellos are all fermented in steel, where they also undergo malolactic fermentation before being moved into cask for aging. Bianchini describes 2010 as a year with a rainy spring and delayed flowering, but much more normal conditions throughout the summer and into harvest.
00
2009
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2009
2014 - 2019
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has done a terrific job with his 2009 Brunello di Montalcino, especially in light of the very challenging growing season. Ciacci has undergone a bit of transition in the winemaking team over the last few years. Hopefully things have now stabilized, as frequent changes in personnel benefit no one.
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2008
2013 - 2020
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2007
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2007
2013 - 2017
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Paolo Bianchini's 2007 Brunelli are quite a bit better than the 2006s. One of the recent evolutions at Ciacci has been Bianchini's desire to make an entry-level Brunello that is more affordable than his wines have been in the past, hence a greater separation in terms of quality and price between the straight Brunello and the Pianrosso. The Brunellos undergo alcoholic and malolactic fermentation in steel, and are aged in cask.
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2006
2014 - 2021
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2005
2015 - 2020
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini did a terrific job in both 2005 and 2004, as these notes show. The Ciacci Piccolomini Brunellos are marked by an intense, voluptuous expression of fruit and equally supple texture that captures the essence of these sites on the southern side of town.
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2005
2013 - 2020
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has turned out a gorgeous set of wines.
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2004
2024 - 2028
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2004
2015 - 2024
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini did a terrific job both in 2005 and 2004, as these notes show. The Ciacci Piccolomini Brunellos are marked by an intense, voluptuous expression of fruit and equally supple texture that captures the essence of these sites on the southern edge of town.
00
2004
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2004
2013 - 2022
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini has a lovely set of wines on his hands with these new releases. Fans of the estate can also look forward to the 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, which will be released next year.
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2003
2013 - 2018
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Proprietor Paolo Bianchini is upbeat about his 2003 Brunellos. It is the first vintage in which he had the tools to perform a cold soak, which he feels was especially critical in preserving as much freshness as possible in the wines. For the Brunellos, fermentation and maceration lasted several weeks and the wines were aged in cask.
00
2001
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1999
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1995
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1994
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This ancient estate, whose familial history is enshrined in its name, originated during the Renaissance. The 15th-century palazzo was the seat of the patrician Piccolomini family, who redesigned and decorated the nearby town of Pienza, and who produced Pope Aeneas Silvio, a patron of Leonardo and Michaelangelo. The current owner, the Bianchini family, has lavished care on the vineyards, and has retained the irrepressible Roberto Cipresso as wine director. Their first vintage together, from vine to bottle, was 1990; from that point on, this property has been in the top tier. The vines and estate are in Castelnuovo dell' Abate, in the southwest area of the zone. Fine galestro soils (friable limestone with sand and clay) with iron give the wines distinctive flavors; they are typically more densely structured than those of their neighbors yet elegant. The vineyards are organically farmed as much as possible. Yields are kept to a low 35 hectoliters per hectare on average, though in 1997 the total yield was only 50% that of the 1996 vintage. While sensitive to the vagaries of each vintage, Cipresso has adapted very rigorous principles to extract as much as possible from his raw materials. The grapes are harvested as late as possible (October 2 in 1995, for instance). He employs a long maceration at high temperatures-in 1995, 32 days at a maximum of 34oC. The wines are aged in barriques puncheons and botti of up to 75 hectoliters. More recently, Cipresso is making a very fine Vino da Tavola called Ateo (atheist), a blend of Brunello, cabernet and merlot, aged in barriques Given Cipresso techniques, confidence and sense of style, these are among the darkest, densest, and classiest wines being made in Montalcino.
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