1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate
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The 1997 vintage here featured generous crop levels, yet I found these wines to be livelier and deeper than the '96s, with suaver, more thoroughly ripe tannins. Incidentally, assistant winemaker Gerard Zanzonico describes the 1998 estate cabernet as a rich wine with superb depth of flavor; the harvest basically came a full month later than that of 1997. My early look at this wine toward the end of its long secondary fermentation revealed a wine with terrific density, extract and acidity.
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Following the '93 vintage, Bo Barrett has cut back on the percentage of his estate cabernet that undergoes an extended maceration-continuing his progress toward suppler tannins that began with the purchase of a gentler destemmer in 1990. It is no coincidence that the Montelena estate cabernets of the '80s have been better-balanced wines than ever before. Incidentally, Barrett is currently describing the 1997 cabernet, from a huge crop of thick-skinned grapes, as the best wine he has ever made. During my early March visit here, I tasted with Barrett every Montelena estate cabernet made to date, beginning with the 1978; the results of this thoroughly rewarding tasting will be published in the next issue.
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