2023 Gigondas

My meeting with Louis Barruol began with a tour of the vineyards surrounding the old chapel at Château de Saint Cosme, which is currently undergoing renovation. Barruol proudly showed me his Clairette vines, laden with golden, pristine grapes destined for his 2024 Gigondas Blanc. In the cellar, we turned our attention to the 2022 reds, which have mellowed beautifully after their élevage. The star of the vintage is the singular Hominis Fides, boasting stunning verticality and impeccable balance, with the detailed and focused Le Claux trailing close behind. By contrast, the 2023 reds are more openly seductive, featuring softer structures and a more immediate allure, with the exceptional Le Claux currently leading the pack. Over the past few years, Barruol has reduced the proportion of new oak across his reds, cutting it down to around 20% and even as low as 10%, depending on the cuvée and vintage conditions. Turning to the whites, it’s no surprise that both the concentrated, sapid 2023 Gigondas Blanc Hominis Fides and the crisp Blanc Le Poste are among the finest in the entire appellation. These two cuvées, made exclusively from Clairette, demonstrate that the variety can shine brightly on its own in Gigondas–when in the right hands.