2016 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Château de Beaucastel remains a construction site. With François Perrin, we first sampled the whites from tank and barrel. For their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, the Roussanne generally sees oak, old and new, while Grenache Blanc and Clairette are raised entirely in tank. Malolactic conversion is blocked for the latter two varieties to preserve freshness, but it is usually carried out on Roussanne. Looking at what’s in the glass, the bottled 2022 and the assembled 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc perform well. As for the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, the 2022 turned out brilliantly, with the precise 2023 in hot pursuit. When Perrin offered to taste an older vintage, I opted for the 2009, as I still have one bottle in my cellar. Having enjoyed the solar 2009 a few times in its youth, I was curious to see how it developed. The mature 2009 has evolved into an alluringly complex yet remarkably refreshing Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, sitting at a perfect drinking spot. If you are lucky enough to own a bottle, now is the time to enjoy its full glory. Moving on to the reds, we started with the refined 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Hommage à Jacques Perrin before moving on to the 2022s. While it was no surprise to see the Hommage presenting as a contender for one of the wines of the vintage, I was thrilled by the quality of the traditional red Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its enticing floral lift and serious stature. Finally, we approached a bottle of the red 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While the aromas and flavors have evolved towards lovely tertiary elements like tobacco and dried fruits, the robust tannins remain a focal point. That said, the 2005 is a distinctively savory Beaucastel with a few more years ahead.

Château de Beaucastel remains a construction site. With François Perrin, we first sampled the whites from tank and barrel. For their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, the Roussanne generally sees oak, old and new, while Grenache Blanc and Clairette are raised entirely in tank. Malolactic conversion is blocked for the latter two varieties to preserve freshness, but it is usually carried out on Roussanne. Looking at what’s in the glass, the bottled 2022 and the assembled 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc perform well. As for the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, the 2022 turned out brilliantly, with the precise 2023 in hot pursuit. When Perrin offered to taste an older vintage, I opted for the 2009, as I still have one bottle in my cellar. Having enjoyed the solar 2009 a few times in its youth, I was curious to see how it developed. The mature 2009 has evolved into an alluringly complex yet remarkably refreshing Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, sitting at a perfect drinking spot. If you are lucky enough to own a bottle, now is the time to enjoy its full glory. Moving on to the reds, we started with the refined 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Hommage à Jacques Perrin before moving on to the 2022s. While it was no surprise to see the Hommage presenting as a contender for one of the wines of the vintage, I was thrilled by the quality of the traditional red Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its enticing floral lift and serious stature. Finally, we approached a bottle of the red 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While the aromas and flavors have evolved towards lovely tertiary elements like tobacco and dried fruits, the robust tannins remain a focal point. That said, the 2005 is a distinctively savory Beaucastel with a few more years ahead.

I eagerly anticipated meeting with winemaker César Perrin to learn about the massive construction project to rebuild the winery. From hundreds of applications, the Perrin Family awarded Indian architect Bijoy Jain with the task. The fundamental concept revolves around utilizing local soil in lieu of conventional cement, intending to facilitate the transfer of materials back to the local soils when the winery is eventually reconstructed 50 years from now. However, the true magic takes place beneath the surface, as sizable basins are filled with rainwater that is collected from the winery's roofs during the winter season. The mistral, a potent and typically arid wind that sweeps down from the north across the entire Rhône Valley, enters these subterranean basin halls, where it is cooled by the water, maintaining a natural temperature ranging from 12 to 14 degrees Celsius (equivalent to 53.6 to 57.2 degrees Fahrenheit). This cooled air is then redistributed throughout the winery to effectively regulate the temperature of the entire facility without the use of electricity. Instead of focusing on showy architectural designs with the sole intention of impressing, this approach reflects a visionary mindset embracing sustainability. Architecture aside, this year’s tasting covered a captivating set of vintages spanning from 2018 to 2022. Whether you choose their traditional white or red Châteauneuf-du-Pape or indulge in their special cuvées, you are in for a treat. Everything you could possibly look for in a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape—aromatic complexity, elegance, richness, balance, intensity, persistence—you will discover in Château de Beaucastel’s wines. While tasting the whites, Perrin and I debated how long they could develop in bottle. I was more conservative than him, suggesting that it is rare to see significant improvement after ten years of age. Perrin, on the other hand, reported memorable tastings of white Château de Beaucastel that had aged for several decades and suggested arranging a vertical tasting of the Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes at a later date to provide evidence for his stance.

I eagerly anticipated meeting with winemaker César Perrin to learn about the massive construction project to rebuild the winery. From hundreds of applications, the Perrin Family awarded Indian architect Bijoy Jain with the task. The fundamental concept revolves around utilizing local soil in lieu of conventional cement, intending to facilitate the transfer of materials back to the local soils when the winery is eventually reconstructed 50 years from now. However, the true magic takes place beneath the surface, as sizable basins are filled with rainwater that is collected from the winery's roofs during the winter season. The mistral, a potent and typically arid wind that sweeps down from the north across the entire Rhône Valley, enters these subterranean basin halls, where it is cooled by the water, maintaining a natural temperature ranging from 12 to 14 degrees Celsius (equivalent to 53.6 to 57.2 degrees Fahrenheit). This cooled air is then redistributed throughout the winery to effectively regulate the temperature of the entire facility without the use of electricity. Instead of focusing on showy architectural designs with the sole intention of impressing, this approach reflects a visionary mindset embracing sustainability. Architecture aside, this year’s tasting covered a captivating set of vintages spanning from 2018 to 2022. Whether you choose their traditional white or red Châteauneuf-du-Pape or indulge in their special cuvées, you are in for a treat. Everything you could possibly look for in a bottle of Châteauneuf-du-Pape—aromatic complexity, elegance, richness, balance, intensity, persistence—you will discover in Château de Beaucastel’s wines. While tasting the whites, Perrin and I debated how long they could develop in bottle. I was more conservative than him, suggesting that it is rare to see significant improvement after ten years of age. Perrin, on the other hand, reported memorable tastings of white Château de Beaucastel that had aged for several decades and suggested arranging a vertical tasting of the Cuvée Roussanne Vieilles Vignes at a later date to provide evidence for his stance.

The Perrin family needs no introduction to Rhône wine lovers, such has been the success of their work at their domaine in the northern reaches of the appellation. Despite the weather challenges of 2017, 2018 and 2019, the classic cuvée maintain a legendary reputation in Châteauneuf and have even improved on it. Give these vintages some time in bottle, especially the 2019. In the rarefied world of wine collectors, this bottling’s excellence is often overshadowed by the existence of the Mourvèdre-driven Hommage à Jacques Perrin. Made in small quantities and first introduced with the 1989 vintage, Hommage à Jacques Perrin is admittedly one of the great wines of France, and its stature is well-earned. As perverse as it may sound, I am happy to see the Perrins pushing the price up of the “regular” wine, while maintaining the tariff for the Hommage. The quality-to-price differential is simply not 10 to 1, no matter how you slice it.

The Perrin family needs no introduction to Rhône wine lovers, such has been the success of their work at their domaine in the northern reaches of the appellation. Despite the weather challenges of 2017, 2018 and 2019, the classic cuvée maintain a legendary reputation in Châteauneuf and have even improved on it. Give these vintages some time in bottle, especially the 2019. In the rarefied world of wine collectors, this bottling’s excellence is often overshadowed by the existence of the Mourvèdre-driven Hommage à Jacques Perrin. Made in small quantities and first introduced with the 1989 vintage, Hommage à Jacques Perrin is admittedly one of the great wines of France, and its stature is well-earned. As perverse as it may sound, I am happy to see the Perrins pushing the price up of the “regular” wine, while maintaining the tariff for the Hommage. The quality-to-price differential is simply not 10 to 1, no matter how you slice it.

Marc Perrin said that "2017 has a lot in common with 2007, but there’s more energy and freshness" to the wines, which he thinks will reward patience. Of course, Mourvèdre always makes up a great amount of the blend, so age-worthiness is pretty much always a given, even in lighter years (not that there have been many of those lately). Perrin told me that the original cuttings of Mourvèdre came from the Bandol's highly esteemed Domaine Tempier, with the oldest planting dates back to 1909. Those old vines provide the base for the always-astonishing and patience-demanding Hommage à Jacques Perrin bottling, which is typically, as with 2016, made up of at least 75% of the variety. The 1990 version of that wine is simply amazing right now, and it’s still got years left in it.

The Perrin family needs no introduction to Rhône wine lovers, such has been the success of their work at their domaine in the northern reaches of the appellation. Despite the weather challenges of 2017, 2018 and 2019, the classic cuvée maintain a legendary reputation in Châteauneuf and have even improved on it. Give these vintages some time in bottle, especially the 2019. In the rarefied world of wine collectors, this bottling’s excellence is often overshadowed by the existence of the Mourvèdre-driven Hommage à Jacques Perrin. Made in small quantities and first introduced with the 1989 vintage, Hommage à Jacques Perrin is admittedly one of the great wines of France, and its stature is well-earned. As perverse as it may sound, I am happy to see the Perrins pushing the price up of the “regular” wine, while maintaining the tariff for the Hommage. The quality-to-price differential is simply not 10 to 1, no matter how you slice it.

Marc Perrin said that "2017 has a lot in common with 2007, but there’s more energy and freshness" to the wines, which he thinks will reward patience. Of course, Mourvèdre always makes up a great amount of the blend, so age-worthiness is pretty much always a given, even in lighter years (not that there have been many of those lately). Perrin told me that the original cuttings of Mourvèdre came from the Bandol's highly esteemed Domaine Tempier, with the oldest planting dates back to 1909. Those old vines provide the base for the always-astonishing and patience-demanding Hommage à Jacques Perrin bottling, which is typically, as with 2016, made up of at least 75% of the variety. The 1990 version of that wine is simply amazing right now, and it’s still got years left in it.

Marc Perrin mentioned, again, the foresight of his grandfather Jacques in planting the full range of permitted varieties rather than leaning too hard on Grenache in the estate’s vineyards. There are now roughly 100 hectares under vine here, with another 30 that are unplanted. The large amount of Mourvèdre and, increasingly, Counoise in the mix means that the Perrins have largely dodged the perils of recent flowering issues for Grenache that have been plaguing the region for the last few years, so production levels, while off, haven’t been as dismal as at many neighboring estates. Perrin told me that 2016 was a great year for the late-ripening Mourvèdre “because it was such a late harvest, which favors the grape and Syrah as well.” The wines are, predictably, full-throttle and show abundant rich fruit, along with the plenty of Mourvèdre structure that ensures a long aging curve ahead.

Marc Perrin told me that he feels blessed that his family’s 100 acres of vines are planted to such a diverse array of varieties, especially Mourvèdre, since so many recent vintages have suffered short Grenache crops and many of his neighbors’ production levels have been way off in years like 2014 and 2013. In those vintages spring frosts and hail caused often sever damage to the early-ripening Grenache fruit so it was a big advantage to have later-ripening varieties to compensate for a smaller-than-normal harvest, he told me. Mourvèdre is also a great variety to use to bring structure to Châteauneuf-du-Papes made in hot vintages, when the Grenache’s ripeness can sore and the resulting wines run the risk of coming off flabby. That’s clearly the case with the 2015s here as the wines possess more firmness than other examples from the region, which means that they should age very well, which is always a hallmark of this iconic estate. The 1989, from another hot vintage, like 2015, is drinking fabulously right now, and it shows no sign of falling apart any time soon.

François Perrin told me that while he thinks the 2014s from the region will be highly appealing to many people for their often "massive fruit and extroverted personality," the 2013s, at their best, "will be the ones for people who like structure and have the patience" to age them. This venerable estate's wines always contain a high percentage of grapes other than Grenache, so a year with a short crop of that variety "doesn't really throw us or the blend of the wine off," he told me. "We like to work with Mourvèdre, especially, so years like '13 that favor late-ripening grapes are just fine with us," he added.

François Perrin told me that while he thinks the 2014s from the region will be highly appealing to many people for their often "massive fruit and extroverted personality," the 2013s, at their best, "will be the ones for people who like structure and have the patience" to age them. This venerable estate's wines always contain a high percentage of grapes other than Grenache, so a year with a short crop of that variety "doesn't really throw us or the blend of the wine off," he told me. "We like to work with Mourvèdre, especially, so years like '13 that favor late-ripening grapes are just fine with us," he added.

Marc Perrin described the Beaucastel 2013s as "very northern [Rhône] in style" because of their emphasis on dark fruits and the higher-than-normal amount of "darker varieties" in the blends. That's true of the vast majority of Châteauneufs from the vintage, he told me, adding that "the wines are going to have interesting aging curves" because the varietal makeup of wines across the appellation "is unlike what anybody is used to. with so little Grenache in the final blends." Speaking to the 2012s, Perrin told me that it's a vintage quite a bit like 2010 "except that the tannins are rounder, which will make the wines both accessible and ageworthy." He mused that it's almost impossible to find a vintage in recent times that's not at least acceptable, "2002 being the big exception," a fact he attributes to warmer weather and to vastly improved farming practices, not to mention greater selection in the vineyards, at the sorting tables and in the cellar. "Think about it," he asked me rhetorically, "how many bad, much less really bad wines do you find in Châteauneuf now? What is average today would have been considered great just 20 years ago."

Marc Perrin described the Beaucastel 2013s as "very northern [Rhône] in style" because of their emphasis on dark fruits and the higher-than-normal amount of "darker varieties" in the blends. That's true of the vast majority of Châteauneufs from the vintage, he told me, adding that "the wines are going to have interesting aging curves" because the varietal makeup of wines across the appellation "is unlike what anybody is used to. with so little Grenache in the final blends." Speaking to the 2012s, Perrin told me that it's a vintage quite a bit like 2010 "except that the tannins are rounder, which will make the wines both accessible and ageworthy." He mused that it's almost impossible to find a vintage in recent times that's not at least acceptable, "2002 being the big exception," a fact he attributes to warmer weather and to vastly improved farming practices, not to mention greater selection in the vineyards, at the sorting tables and in the cellar. "Think about it," he asked me rhetorically, "how many bad, much less really bad wines do you find in Châteauneuf now? What is average today would have been considered great just 20 years ago."

"It's been a good thing that we're so obsessed with mourvedre because relying on grenache for the last few years has been a real pain for people," Marc Perrin told me when we sat down to taste the new Beaucastel releases in November. He noted that underripe grapes were a serious problem in 2011, so fastidious sorting was mandatory. "Now I know how zinfandel growers must feel about having to deal with irregular ripeness within individual clusters," he added. Needless to say, yields were down sharply in '11 (50% less than in 2010 here) but the resulting wines show very good depth and flavor intensity. As for 2012, Perrin calls it "a vintage of balance and fruit intensity, such that the wines can be drunk young, but they will also age because there aren't hard tannins that need time to fade into the background."

"It's been a good thing that we're so obsessed with mourvedre because relying on grenache for the last few years has been a real pain for people," Marc Perrin told me when we sat down to taste the new Beaucastel releases in November. He noted that underripe grapes were a serious problem in 2011, so fastidious sorting was mandatory. "Now I know how zinfandel growers must feel about having to deal with irregular ripeness within individual clusters," he added. Needless to say, yields were down sharply in '11 (50% less than in 2010 here) but the resulting wines show very good depth and flavor intensity. As for 2012, Perrin calls it "a vintage of balance and fruit intensity, such that the wines can be drunk young, but they will also age because there aren't hard tannins that need time to fade into the background."

According to Marc Perrin, "2011 was especially hard on the grenache in Chateauneuf and definitely favored the late-ripening varieties, especially mourvedre." The uneven ripening that occurred caused the grapes to "look fine on the outside but not so fine inside" and resulted in a brutal (his word was "ridiculous") selection process at harvest. There was even an additional sorting of the grapes after de-stemming, he told me, meaning that in terms of labor and fruit sacrifice this was one of their most demanding and costly ever. Final production was off by about 50%, "which is far into the range of economically unfeasible," he added. Luckily for the Perrins almost 40% of Beaucastel's total plantings are mourvedre, which fared far better than the grenache, "and gave us a lot more breathing room than most people here."

According to Marc Perrin, "2011 was especially hard on the grenache in Chateauneuf and definitely favored the late-ripening varieties, especially mourvedre." The uneven ripening that occurred caused the grapes to "look fine on the outside but not so fine inside" and resulted in a brutal (his word was "ridiculous") selection process at harvest. There was even an additional sorting of the grapes after de-stemming, he told me, meaning that in terms of labor and fruit sacrifice this was one of their most demanding and costly ever. Final production was off by about 50%, "which is far into the range of economically unfeasible," he added. Luckily for the Perrins almost 40% of Beaucastel's total plantings are mourvedre, which fared far better than the grenache, "and gave us a lot more breathing room than most people here."

According to Marc Perrin, "the not-so secret benefit of Beaucastel's location in Chateauneuf is that the vineyard sits in the most northern sector of the appellation. This means that the north winds sweep down through the mountains and hit here first, which keeps the vineyards cool and stretches out the growing season." He added that in terms of temperature Beaucastel "is a lot like a vineyard much further north," so there is always good acidity to the grapes, even in a hot year. Perrin noted that in a year like 2010 that quality is even more pronounced, "which means that the wines will be very long-lived." As much as he loves the 2007 Hommage a Jacques Perrin, and the 2009 as well, he believes the 2010 is at another level and "should be, maybe, the longest-lived wine made here, maybe ever." He compares the 2010 wines "to 1978 and maybe even 1962 for their intensity without overripeness or heaviness." Those older vintages are most peoples' reference points for greatness in Chateauneuf, by the way. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

According to Marc Perrin, "the not-so secret benefit of Beaucastel's location in Chateauneuf is that the vineyard sits in the most northern sector of the appellation. This means that the north winds sweep down through the mountains and hit here first, which keeps the vineyards cool and stretches out the growing season." He added that in terms of temperature Beaucastel "is a lot like a vineyard much further north," so there is always good acidity to the grapes, even in a hot year. Perrin noted that in a year like 2010 that quality is even more pronounced, "which means that the wines will be very long-lived." As much as he loves the 2007 Hommage a Jacques Perrin, and the 2009 as well, he believes the 2010 is at another level and "should be, maybe, the longest-lived wine made here, maybe ever." He compares the 2010 wines "to 1978 and maybe even 1962 for their intensity without overripeness or heaviness." Those older vintages are most peoples' reference points for greatness in Chateauneuf, by the way. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"The hallmark of 2009 in Chateauneuf is silky tannins," Marc Perrin told me as we started our annual tasting. "It's a vintage that favors the late-ripening grapes because we got some good rain in the middle of September that helped the mourvedre and syrah a lot." He was especially pleased with how the estate's mourvedre turned out in '09, calling it "perfectly mature and without hardness. The 2009 classique [which is 30% mourvedre, by the way] has an elegance that will make it seductive young because the tannins are hidden and absorbed by the fruit." Perrin told me that he would be surprised if the '09s ever really shut down hard—"and if they do close up it will probably be for a short time, unlike the 2007 and 2005." Perrin emphasized that when Beaucastel makes an Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottling, as is currently planned for 2009, "it is because we think that it will be a wine of finesse, foremost. The greatest wines are the finest, the most elegant, not the most massive or brutal." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"The hallmark of 2009 in Chateauneuf is silky tannins," Marc Perrin told me as we started our annual tasting. "It's a vintage that favors the late-ripening grapes because we got some good rain in the middle of September that helped the mourvedre and syrah a lot." He was especially pleased with how the estate's mourvedre turned out in '09, calling it "perfectly mature and without hardness. The 2009 classique [which is 30% mourvedre, by the way] has an elegance that will make it seductive young because the tannins are hidden and absorbed by the fruit." Perrin told me that he would be surprised if the '09s ever really shut down hard—"and if they do close up it will probably be for a short time, unlike the 2007 and 2005." Perrin emphasized that when Beaucastel makes an Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottling, as is currently planned for 2009, "it is because we think that it will be a wine of finesse, foremost. The greatest wines are the finest, the most elegant, not the most massive or brutal." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"It's impossible to argue that 2007 is not a great vintage," said Marc Perrin. "It has to be considered one of the greatest in modern times." Perrin noted that the Indian summer of '07 (like '09, by the way) ensured fully mature mourvedre, "which enhanced the lushness of the grenache." He also noted that the tannins of the '07s "are very fine and in harmony with the fruit, and don't show the hardness that we see in the 2005s." Incidentally, the Perrin family is now the owner of the cozy restaurant L'Oustalet, in the heart of the tiny, picturesque village of Gigondas, and they have already begun assembling an impressive and sometimes very reasonably priced wine list. This is great news for visitors to the region who have been compelled to make a drive to Avignon for a special meal after exhausting the handful of fine-dining options available in the immediate area. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"It's impossible to argue that 2007 is not a great vintage," said Marc Perrin. "It has to be considered one of the greatest in modern times." Perrin noted that the Indian summer of '07 (like '09, by the way) ensured fully mature mourvedre, "which enhanced the lushness of the grenache." He also noted that the tannins of the '07s "are very fine and in harmony with the fruit, and don't show the hardness that we see in the 2005s." Incidentally, the Perrin family is now the owner of the cozy restaurant L'Oustalet, in the heart of the tiny, picturesque village of Gigondas, and they have already begun assembling an impressive and sometimes very reasonably priced wine list. This is great news for visitors to the region who have been compelled to make a drive to Avignon for a special meal after exhausting the handful of fine-dining options available in the immediate area. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Marc Perrin prefers his 2007s to the 2005s because he believes they are a perfect expression of typicity and character. "The tannins are more integrated, while the 2005s will have to stay buried for a long time to loosen up," he told me. The 2007s, he thinks, "will age like the 2005s, but they will always be attractive, even on release, which is completely unlike the '05s. It might sound like hype but we think that 2007 is the best vintage ever at Beaucastel. I know that I'm not the only one around here who is saying that. " Perrin is afraid that 2006 will get lost between '05 and '07. "The wines are suave and sweet, classic expressions of Provence and wonderfully elegant. Their balance will enable them to age for a long time but you won't get the drama of '05 and '07, which is just fine with me. " (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

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Marc Perrin prefers his 2007s to the 2005s because he believes they are a perfect expression of typicity and character. "The tannins are more integrated, while the 2005s will have to stay buried for a long time to loosen up," he told me. The 2007s, he thinks, "will age like the 2005s, but they will always be attractive, even on release, which is completely unlike the '05s. It might sound like hype but we think that 2007 is the best vintage ever at Beaucastel. I know that I'm not the only one around here who is saying that. " Perrin is afraid that 2006 will get lost between '05 and '07. "The wines are suave and sweet, classic expressions of Provence and wonderfully elegant. Their balance will enable them to age for a long time but you won't get the drama of '05 and '07, which is just fine with me. " (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Mar c Perrin does not like to make "easy wine" and is intent on sticking with this estate's model for "wines that demand but repay patience." So it should be no surprise that he is particularly enamored of his 2005s, which he describes as classic Beaucastel. "They will age beautifully and they're among the greatest wines we have produced here. But they will not be fun when they are young." While his 2006s "will be enjoyable at a much younger age" than the 2005s, Perrin believes that they are nonetheless well-balanced and fine to put away. "They are still Beaucastel," he emphasized. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Château de Beaucastel remains a construction site. With François Perrin, we first sampled the whites from tank and barrel. For their Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, the Roussanne generally sees oak, old and new, while Grenache Blanc and Clairette are raised entirely in tank. Malolactic conversion is blocked for the latter two varieties to preserve freshness, but it is usually carried out on Roussanne. Looking at what’s in the glass, the bottled 2022 and the assembled 2023 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc perform well. As for the Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, the 2022 turned out brilliantly, with the precise 2023 in hot pursuit. When Perrin offered to taste an older vintage, I opted for the 2009, as I still have one bottle in my cellar. Having enjoyed the solar 2009 a few times in its youth, I was curious to see how it developed. The mature 2009 has evolved into an alluringly complex yet remarkably refreshing Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, sitting at a perfect drinking spot. If you are lucky enough to own a bottle, now is the time to enjoy its full glory. Moving on to the reds, we started with the refined 2021 Châteauneuf-du-Pape and Hommage à Jacques Perrin before moving on to the 2022s. While it was no surprise to see the Hommage presenting as a contender for one of the wines of the vintage, I was thrilled by the quality of the traditional red Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its enticing floral lift and serious stature. Finally, we approached a bottle of the red 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. While the aromas and flavors have evolved towards lovely tertiary elements like tobacco and dried fruits, the robust tannins remain a focal point. That said, the 2005 is a distinctively savory Beaucastel with a few more years ahead.

Mar c Perrin does not like to make "easy wine" and is intent on sticking with this estate's model for "wines that demand but repay patience." So it should be no surprise that he is particularly enamored of his 2005s, which he describes as classic Beaucastel. "They will age beautifully and they're among the greatest wines we have produced here. But they will not be fun when they are young." While his 2006s "will be enjoyable at a much younger age" than the 2005s, Perrin believes that they are nonetheless well-balanced and fine to put away. "They are still Beaucastel," he emphasized. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Marc Perrin, who is an avid sailor, was waiting outside the Beaucastel chai enjoying a vicious windstorm when I arrived for my tasting, and it was clear that he would have preferred to have been out on the water than in a dark, quiet cave that day. "Two thousand five gave us a perfect harvest," he told me, "like 2004 and, by the way, 2006. "Perrin is especially excited by the quality of the mourvedre in 2004, which he believes will help ensure a long evolution for these wines. "The 2004s will not impress with extraction, but with finesse, elegance and balance," he pointed out. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Marc Perrin, who is an avid sailor, was waiting outside the Beaucastel chai enjoying a vicious windstorm when I arrived for my tasting, and it was clear that he would have preferred to have been out on the water than in a dark, quiet cave that day. "Two thousand five gave us a perfect harvest," he told me, "like 2004 and, by the way, 2006. "Perrin is especially excited by the quality of the mourvedre in 2004, which he believes will help ensure a long evolution for these wines. "The 2004s will not impress with extraction, but with finesse, elegance and balance," he pointed out. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

The Perrin family has been on a major land acquisition roll, acquiring more than 100 acres in Vinsobres (which has just been elevated from Cotes du Rhone-Villages status to AOC, along with Beaumes de Venise rouge), as well as entering into contracts for grapes from Vacqueyras and Rasteau.These wines are bottled under the Perrin label, and I was able to taste the 2004 releases with Pierre Perrin at Beaucastel in November (see notes later in this issue).As for the flagship wines from Chateau de Beaucastel, they are, in a word, brilliant.I was especially struck by the quality of the white wines; it was clear from Perrin's enthusiasm that these are wines that matter deeply to the family.Vintage 2003 was a big success for the red wines here, especially owing to the atypical ripeness achieved by Beaucastel's grenache, which the family harvested late and which makes up 50% of the blend in this vintage."I only love grenache when it's ripe," noted Perrin.The harvest of 2004 took place under what Perrin described as "perfect conditions, no problems at all," and the wines are wonderfully fresh, balanced and pure.(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

The Perrin family has been on a major land acquisition roll, acquiring more than 100 acres in Vinsobres (which has just been elevated from Cotes du Rhone-Villages status to AOC, along with Beaumes de Venise rouge), as well as entering into contracts for grapes from Vacqueyras and Rasteau.These wines are bottled under the Perrin label, and I was able to taste the 2004 releases with Pierre Perrin at Beaucastel in November (see notes later in this issue).As for the flagship wines from Chateau de Beaucastel, they are, in a word, brilliant.I was especially struck by the quality of the white wines; it was clear from Perrin's enthusiasm that these are wines that matter deeply to the family.Vintage 2003 was a big success for the red wines here, especially owing to the atypical ripeness achieved by Beaucastel's grenache, which the family harvested late and which makes up 50% of the blend in this vintage."I only love grenache when it's ripe," noted Perrin.The harvest of 2004 took place under what Perrin described as "perfect conditions, no problems at all," and the wines are wonderfully fresh, balanced and pure.(Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Beaucastel has enjoyed a remarkable run of vintagesx000D since 1998, and although the estate does not consider its 2001 red the best ofx000D the recent string, the young 2001 Beaucastel showed spectacularly inx000D November. Jean-Pierre Perrin wasx000D especially enamored of the estate's white wines in 2001. We had vivid acidity, even in ourx000D viognier," he told me. Thex000D fruit in 2000 may have been riper, but the 2001 whites show more vibrancy." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Beaucastel has enjoyed a remarkable run of vintagesx000D since 1998, and although the estate does not consider its 2001 red the best ofx000D the recent string, the young 2001 Beaucastel showed spectacularly inx000D November. Jean-Pierre Perrin wasx000D especially enamored of the estate's white wines in 2001. We had vivid acidity, even in ourx000D viognier," he told me. Thex000D fruit in 2000 may have been riper, but the 2001 whites show more vibrancy." (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Francois Perrin describes the estate's 2000 reds as round and juicy, a bit like '89. "In contrast, the '99s are solid but not easy wines, best suited for purists; '99 is Wagner while '00 is Mozart." As at numerous other Rhone Valley addresses, especially in the North, 2000 has produced exceptionally strong white wines here. The estate did very little stirring of the lees, and blocked the malolactic fermentations to protect the freshness of the whites. Beaucastel can now do the pigeage for its syrah and mourvedre in wood cuves following the completion of its new cuverie With its expanded capacity, the new facility could allow Beaucastel to vinify its entire crop in five days. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Francois Perrin describes the estate's 2000 reds as round and juicy, a bit like '89. "In contrast, the '99s are solid but not easy wines, best suited for purists; '99 is Wagner while '00 is Mozart." As at numerous other Rhone Valley addresses, especially in the North, 2000 has produced exceptionally strong white wines here. The estate did very little stirring of the lees, and blocked the malolactic fermentations to protect the freshness of the whites. Beaucastel can now do the pigeage for its syrah and mourvedre in wood cuves following the completion of its new cuverie With its expanded capacity, the new facility could allow Beaucastel to vinify its entire crop in five days. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"The '99s give a strong impression of acidity even if their pHs are similar to those of '98," said Francois Perrin, echoing a sentiment I heard up and down the Rhone Valley in November and experienced for myself in the wines. "The '99s are still extremely youthful, like completely fresh fruit. Nineteen ninety-eight, in comparison, featured a more Californian climate, with hot days but cool nights." Perrin, who has proven to be a discerning and forthcoming judge of the relative merits of vintages, says that the estate Roussanne Vieilles Vignes in '99 is the best since '91. "The '98 whites are a bit technological," he told me, "while the '99s, which fermented much longer, are more complex." Beaucastel has made an extraordinary pair of special Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottlings in '99 and '98. Like the stunningly good '89 and '90, the current pair represents two completely different blends: the '99, like the '90, features 60% mourvedre and 20% grenache, while the '98, like the '89, is 60% grenache and 20% mourvedre. These rare and expensive bottles are among the Rhone Valley's most remarkable wines. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

"The '99s give a strong impression of acidity even if their pHs are similar to those of '98," said Francois Perrin, echoing a sentiment I heard up and down the Rhone Valley in November and experienced for myself in the wines. "The '99s are still extremely youthful, like completely fresh fruit. Nineteen ninety-eight, in comparison, featured a more Californian climate, with hot days but cool nights." Perrin, who has proven to be a discerning and forthcoming judge of the relative merits of vintages, says that the estate Roussanne Vieilles Vignes in '99 is the best since '91. "The '98 whites are a bit technological," he told me, "while the '99s, which fermented much longer, are more complex." Beaucastel has made an extraordinary pair of special Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottlings in '99 and '98. Like the stunningly good '89 and '90, the current pair represents two completely different blends: the '99, like the '90, features 60% mourvedre and 20% grenache, while the '98, like the '89, is 60% grenache and 20% mourvedre. These rare and expensive bottles are among the Rhone Valley's most remarkable wines. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

It's an outstanding traditional year for the red wines of the appellation, says Francois Perrin, because the grenache was splendidly ripe. But so was the mourvedre, Perrin adds, as it also was the previous year. The result, not surprisingly, is an outstanding vintage at this estate, including the most promising Coudoulet de Beaucastel since 1990 and another potentially outrageous Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottling. Beaucastel's 1998 white wines, says Perrin, began with even higher grape sugars and about the same acidity as the estate's '97 whites but have gone into bottle with less generosity of texture than the earlier set of wines. In '98, he explains, the fermentations were quick ("almost too easy"), while in '97 the sugars took up to three months to ferment. As a result, the '97s are extraordinarily glyceral. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

It's an outstanding traditional year for the red wines of the appellation, says Francois Perrin, because the grenache was splendidly ripe. But so was the mourvedre, Perrin adds, as it also was the previous year. The result, not surprisingly, is an outstanding vintage at this estate, including the most promising Coudoulet de Beaucastel since 1990 and another potentially outrageous Hommage a Jacques Perrin bottling. Beaucastel's 1998 white wines, says Perrin, began with even higher grape sugars and about the same acidity as the estate's '97 whites but have gone into bottle with less generosity of texture than the earlier set of wines. In '98, he explains, the fermentations were quick ("almost too easy"), while in '97 the sugars took up to three months to ferment. As a result, the '97s are extraordinarily glyceral. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Francois Perrin describes 1997 as a great year for the white wines of Chateauneuf du Pape: very rich and ripe, but not over the top. But even the red wine has a pH within this domain normal range, he adds. The two Beaucastel white wines noted below put most other white wines of the Southern Rhone Valley to shame. Yields in '97 were cut by a quarter due to a June hailstorm. There will be no special cuvee in either '97 or '96, but Perrin was already certain there would be an Hommage a Jacques Perrin in 1998, a vintage he says produced grenache of surpassing quality. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

Francois Perrin describes 1997 as a great year for the white wines of Chateauneuf du Pape: very rich and ripe, but not over the top. But even the red wine has a pH within this domain normal range, he adds. The two Beaucastel white wines noted below put most other white wines of the Southern Rhone Valley to shame. Yields in '97 were cut by a quarter due to a June hailstorm. There will be no special cuvee in either '97 or '96, but Perrin was already certain there would be an Hommage a Jacques Perrin in 1998, a vintage he says produced grenache of surpassing quality. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

I first heard about The Sportsman not long after it opened from a local friend, and it had only taken a couple of decades to visit. Thankfully, it did not disappoint. This is cooking where the chef wisely takes a back seat and allows the ingredients do all the talking.

Maybe I don’t believe in Santa as I did when I was child, but I do believe in celebrating Christmas with fine wines and company like this.