2002 Syrah Bionic Frog
$130 (2021)
United States
Walla Walla Valley
Walla Walla Valley
Red
Syrah (2021 vintage)
00
2002
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2021
2028 - 2040
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The 2021s from Cayuse stand out for their consistency. Each year, I find myself picking favorites and looking for the one wine that rises above the others, but with the 2021s, it’s like splitting hairs. While the Rhône varieties have an edge over the rest, that certainly wouldn’t stop me from going deep on these across the board. Of note, production was down by 15% in 2021 due to the small berry sizes and thick skins. Vigneron Christophe Baron and Vigneronne Elizabeth Bourcier also presented a selection of wines from the 2014 and 2015 vintages. Many used to speculate that the Cayuse wines wouldn’t age well due to their high pHs, yet that is certainly not the case. The 2014s are in fine form and still slowly working their way to maturity, while the 2015s, which will be offered as library releases to club members shortly, show an amazing amount of energy and tension, still youthful and spry. Of note, in 2015, the only wines released were The Lovers, Syrah Armada Vineyard, and God Only Knows due to cork issues. These three wines were completely unaffected.
As The Rocks District and Rhône varieties in general across Washington State have been gaining popularity over the previous years, it’s important to recognize Baron's impact on this region. He came to this area and saw its potential when no one else did. He planted vineyards in fields of stone. He chose to adhere to biodynamic principles. Baron has been a visionary and trailblazer for the region since he arrived, and he has no intention of slowing down. While the mailing list at Cayuse remains full, it’s undoubtedly worth getting onto the waiting list. This is a world-class portfolio of wines.
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2020
2025 - 2032
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The 2020s from Cayuse are impossible to ignore. Before the smoke events leading up to harvest, producers in Washington State were excited about the qualities of a year that was warm yet evenly so. The trick was how winemakers dealt with the smoke. In many cases, this meant declassifying juice and reducing quantities. Yet it’s incredible how many portfolios seem to be widely unaffected. As for Cayuse, I find the same depth and complexity that I typically associate with this fantastic collection, along with a clear definition of terroir yet softer textures and chalky tannins that allow for more immediate pleasure. How will they age? The balance is there, along with vibrant fruit and acidity. If anything, I shortened my usual drinking windows by a few years, yet I wouldn’t be surprised if these wines are still singing even further down the road. Readers lucky to have a spot on this highly allocated list should not hesitate to place these in the cellar. Vigneron Elizabeth Bourcier did a fantastic job with this vintage.
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2019
2025 - 2034
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The Cayuse wines continue to set the benchmark for Rhône varieties in Washington State. I was able to follow each of the 2019s over the course of two days, and they got better and better from start to finish. These are sleek and distinctly savory wines with stunning aromatics that transport the taster to the Northern Rhône. Cayuse Vineyards remains one of only a handful of biodynamic estates in Washington, which I have always found odd, as they prove that biodynamic principles are possible in the region and can create world-class wines. The closed mailing list often dissuades readers looking to explore the range. However, Cayuse continues to release a limited amount of wines into the market that can be found with a bit of searching.
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2018
2021 - 2033
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In 2018, Christophe Baron and Elizabeth Bourcier created viscous and dense wines that display plenty of finesse. Whether it is the captivating 2018 Red Wine God Only Knows or their big and bombastic, stony 2018 Bionic Frog, this is a lineup of standout performers from the Rosé to Viognier to Cabernet Sauvignon. Baron’s former assistant, Elizabeth Bourcier, has been promoted to Resident Vigneronne (overseeing all winemaking), so she will have an even bigger impact in vintages to come. For those who enjoy a richer style of Cayuse, look no further than the 2018 lineup.
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2018
2024 - 2033
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2017
2024 - 2035
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2016
2022 - 2033
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My tasting at the Cayuse winery in The Rocks was one of the highlights of my annual visit to Walla Walla this summer. Happily, the winery had a full range of 2016 red wines to present—in contrast to the 2015 vintage, from which Christophe Baron released only three (later-bottled) Cayuse reds due to a problem with faulty corks that affected all of the wines he bottled in May of 2017. It did not hurt that the wines were served at perfect temperature in an impeccably clean, lab-like tasting room. In spite of the neutral environment, the glorious aromatic perfume, energy and depth of these wines came through loud and clear.
In the absence of Baron, who was in Champagne tending to his vines there, Elizabeth Bourcier, assistant vigneronne for the Cayuse venture and the author of the No Girls and La Rata wines, was my guide. She noted that 2015 was a hotter vintage than 2016 but that the latter year was still very warm in spite of cooler weather in July and August. “The vines were far ahead early on,” said Bourcier. “The weather was very pleasant in early September, then there was heat toward the end of the month. But we finished before the rains started on October 6. The ‘16s are fresher and better-balanced than the ‘15s, with similar pHs." Incidentally, Bourcier noted that, as a general rule, “the sweet spot” for the Cayuse reds is between 6 and 10 years after bottling.
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2014
2019 - 2028
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Christophe Baron, who has not purchased any barriques since 2011, showed me his very rich, ripe 2014s, which he described as “one step ahead of the more claret-like ‘13s in color, mouth feel, fruit ripeness and tannic structure. The ‘13s may be finer but they’re not as ripe,” he added, “and the ‘14s should be more ageworthy.” Baron does several days of post-fermentation maceration for all of his red wines, explaining that “when the mouth feel is too upfront, we stop.” As is normally the case here, the pHs of the 2014s are in the range of 3.8 to as high as 4.1.
Long-time collectors of the Cayuse wines know that their alcohol levels are consistently lower nowadays than they were during the winery’s early years. Baron consistently credits biodynamic farming methods, which he introduced in 2002, for bringing full phenolic ripeness at lower Brix levels. Only a few of his 2014s are as high as 14% alcohol, and a majority of them are 13.6% or lower.
Incidentally, just before press time, Christophe Baron announced that he would not be releasing any 2015s from his May, 2017 bottling, which included a large number of the top Cayuse bottlings (including his Cailloux, En Cerise, En Chambertin and Bionic Frog Syrahs, among others) and well over 3,000 cases of wine. During the bottling he discovered paraffin particulates caused by faulty corks from his long-time supplier, and it was determined that both batches of corks used for the May bottling were faulty. (Other 2015s that were bottled in August 2016 and July 2017 were unaffected.) Baron is currently working with his insurance company to ensure that customers who had already paid for affected wines receive refunds.
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2014
2019 - 2028
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2013
2020 - 2030
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2013
2020 - 2030
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Washington Syrah fans who haven’t tasted Christophe Baron’s Cayuse wines in a while may have memories of some wild, high-octane bottles from the early 2000s. Today’s wines are as lush and complex as ever yet rarely hit 14% alcohol, giving them better balance and flavor definition than ever before. Baron credits his biodynamic farming methods with allowing him to produce fruit with better phenolic ripeness at lower levels of potential alcohol. Baron, who is originally from the Champagne region and continues to make wine there, noted that “2012 in Walla Walla is what 2005 was in Burgundy, while 2013 is like 2006.”
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2012
2019 - 2026
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2012
2019 - 2028
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The irrepressible Christophe Baron staged a splendid tasting this year that included his Cayuse line-up along with the wines he and "assistant vigneronne" Elizabeth Bourcier make under the No Girls, Horsepower and La Rata labels. It was a blazing hot summer day in Walla Walla but I can't recall the last time I found such exciting aromatics in a set of new Washington wines. Interestingly, Baron compares 2012 to the very warm 2009 vintage. "Both were classic growing seasons," he explained, "but physiological ripeness came at lower sugar levels in 2012 than in 2009." Indeed, I suspect that most readers will be surprised to hear that the majority of the Cayuse 2012s weigh in at under 14% alcohol. "The first fruit came in at the equinox, with the Tempranillo following on September 24," said Baron, who reminded me that the Cayuse wines have been 100% from estate fruit since 2000.
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2011
2019 - 2026
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2011
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2010
2019 - 2027
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2010
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2009
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2009
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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2001
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Christophe Baron’s adventures in Walla Walla Valley quickly bore fruit, and since the turn of the new century his wines — especially his Syrahs — have consistently stood out from the crowd in Washington State. His Bionic Frog bottling is the best of them, as a comprehensive recent vertical tasting made clear.
First things first: Christophe Baron is the Bionic Frog. That’s the nickname the Australians gave this indefatigable Frenchman when he worked a harvest there in the mid-1990s and the name he chose for what would become one of Washington’s top cult wines in the decade that followed. Baron showed me a complete vertical tasting back to year one (2000) in Seattle at the end of July, and the wines stunned with their richness, complexity and Old World wildness. This is truly one of America’s handful of great Syrahs — and it’s not Baron’s only wine on my short list.
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