2013 Chablis
France
Burgundy
White
Chardonnay
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2014 - 2014
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Sebastien Dauvissat describes 2013, with its cold, rainy spring, as perfect for odium. The irony is of course obvious. Yields are down about 50% across the board, but in exchange natural sugars were good. Dauvissat is always among the last to bottle, so it will be a while before most of these 2013s are in the market. I was also able to taste a number of as yet unbolted 2012s.
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Sebastien Dauvissat is never in a hurry to bottle his wines and thus I should not have been surprised to taste some of his 2012s for a second time from tank or barrel. He views 2012 as a stricter vintage than 2013 and believes the wines are closing down now, a bit like the 2002s did at a similar stage. (I have not provided a new set of notes on the 2012s, as my scores were little changed from a year ago.) Dauvissat told me he preferred his 2013s to his 2012s "in general," emphasizing that he brought in the new crop during the eight days before heavy rain arrived on October 5. It was a very small crop, he added (32 hectoliters per hectare on average for the domain), with more fruit lost to oidium than to rot. Potential alcohols were quite healthy--generally in the 12.7% range--and he did not chaptalize.