2016 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto
$400 (2019)
Italy
North East, Montalcino
Tuscany
Red
Sangiovese (2019 vintage)
00
2016
2026 - 2034
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The Casanova di Neri winery is located in the northeast of Montalcino, on the road to Torrenieri. Surrounding the winery is their Fiesole vineyard, with its Galestro soils and elevations ranging up to 380 meters. Farther east, in fact as far east in Montalcino that you can go, they also tend the Cerretalto vineyard, which feeds their late-release cru wine. Here, elevations are lower, yet the soils are unique, almost red with iron, mixing galestro marl with alluvial stones, eroded rock and magnesium. It is also from this sight, using massal selection, that Giacomo Neri planted his other vineyards. Moving slightly to the west, Podernuovo brings its high-elevation fruit to the mix, situated between 420-490 meters. And then to the south, for its warmer climate, lower elevations and the plush contours they create. Here we find Cetine near Sant’Angelo and the Giovanni Neri vineyard on the road to Castelnuovo dell'Abate. In fact, it’s a total of seven vineyards that the Neri family uses to compose their Brunello portfolio. While Cerretalto brings the power and mineral intensity, and Tenuta Nuova brings the elegance and balanced opulence, it’s the Brunello di Montalcino (often referred to as the “White Label”), with its classic lines and vivid fruit profile, that is the overachiever. This is only possible through an intricate understanding of terroir and how to blend it to perfection. In 2023, we’ll also see the release of Giacomo Neri’s next cru Brunello, the Giovanni Neri, coming from their Castelnuovo dell'Abate location, and an acquired vineyard that was already planted with fifty-year- old vines (which is quite old by Montalcino standards). Until that time, we can all get a taste of this new location through the Rosso di Montalcino “Giovanni Neri”. Gianlorenzo Neri (Giacomo Neri’s son) described 2017 as “the most Mediterranean vintage ever”. The property experienced a 35% loss of production to maintain integrity of the wines, so the family decided to place all of the Cerretalto fruit into the “White Label” Brunello, giving it a serious boost in character. Not afraid of technology, the Neri family also depended on rigorous selection through optical sorting. In the end, whether you consider their more modern leanings a blessing or a curse, this family is making some of the best wine in Montalcino.
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2019
2028 - 2040
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Revisiting Casanova di Neri this July was a fantastic opportunity to taste through the range of 2019s and 2020s (the 2019s were not included in last year's report). In my view, the Neri family represents one of the most significant evolutions in Montalcino. The wines have always possessed remarkable balance that allows them to age gracefully, yet they were once large-scaled, brooding and powerful. Today, there’s a new level of purity throughout the range but the same proportion of ripe fruit and character that is undeniably Casanova di Neri. Starting in 2017, the family began shortening maceration times and invested in an optical sorter. The differences in the wines are notable. The 2020s at this address are drop-dead gorgeous and may have been even more impressive if I hadn’t tasted them next to the 2019s. Both vintages of the Tenuta Nuova surpassed expectations. The late-release Cerretalto remains the powerhouse of this range yet comes across as harmonious from start to finish, even the 2018. But it’s the new Giovanni Neri Brunello that really turns my head (both the 2019 and 2020). Hailing from a 50-year-old vineyard near Castelnuovo dell’Abate, this gorgeous wine has quickly risen to the top of the portfolio. The family spent years rehabilitating these old vines, and now we all reap the rewards. Of note, there will be no 2020 Cerretalto, with the fruit from that bottling going into the white label Brunello.
00
2018
2028 - 2038
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Revisiting Casanova di Neri this July was a fantastic opportunity to taste through the range of 2019s and 2020s (the 2019s were not included in last year's report). In my view, the Neri family represents one of the most significant evolutions in Montalcino. The wines have always possessed remarkable balance that allows them to age gracefully, yet they were once large-scaled, brooding and powerful. Today, there’s a new level of purity throughout the range but the same proportion of ripe fruit and character that is undeniably Casanova di Neri. Starting in 2017, the family began shortening maceration times and invested in an optical sorter. The differences in the wines are notable. The 2020s at this address are drop-dead gorgeous and may have been even more impressive if I hadn’t tasted them next to the 2019s. Both vintages of the Tenuta Nuova surpassed expectations. The late-release Cerretalto remains the powerhouse of this range yet comes across as harmonious from start to finish, even the 2018. But it’s the new Giovanni Neri Brunello that really turns my head (both the 2019 and 2020). Hailing from a 50-year-old vineyard near Castelnuovo dell’Abate, this gorgeous wine has quickly risen to the top of the portfolio. The family spent years rehabilitating these old vines, and now we all reap the rewards. Of note, there will be no 2020 Cerretalto, with the fruit from that bottling going into the white label Brunello.
00
2015
2026 - 2036
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Modern by definition but undeniably Montalcino and Brunello in every way, Casanova di Neri has a gorgeous selection of wines heading in the market in early 2021, from the 2016 Brunellos to the 2015, late-release Cerretalto. The winery is located in the northeastern section of Montalcino, yet it tends seven different and distinct vineyards throughout the region to be able to create a balanced yet unique wine from vintage to vintage. The 2016 “White Label” Brunello is a wonderful example of this balance, once again ranking high in its peer group. On the horizon is the new Tocci vineyard acquired in the south of Montalcino. We will see its debut as a specially labeled 2018 Rosso di Montalcino named Giovanni Neri in honor of the estate's founder; more on that wine at a later date. However, in 2023, the estate will release its first Brunello made from Tocci fruit, yet another example of Montalcino producers trying to make better use of the region's diverse terroir. Whether you consider your palate for Brunello to be international or traditional, you really owe it to yourself to check in with Casanova di Neri.
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2013
2024 - 2032
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2012
2025 - 2034
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2008
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2008
2014 - 2018
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Giacomo Neri excels with rich, textured Brunellos. This year, though I find the wines excessively sweet, oaky and evolved.
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2007
2015 - 2027
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Giacomo Neri is brutally honest in describing 2008 as a challenging vintage marked by significant rain and hail events. Overall production is down 40% across the board. Neri's 2008s are impressive for the year, however, and are a testament to a grower who is willing to make the hard choices necessary to ensure consistently high quality.
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2007
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2007
2015 - 2027
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Giacomo Neri describes 2007 as a year with a warm spring followed by a cold, dry summer. Neri is one of the few growers who considers 2007 cooler than 2006, showing just how diverse Montalcino is. Temperatures were unusually warm during the spring, but then moderated over a coolish summer that saw very little rain. Acidities are a bit higher in 2007 than 2006. All that said, my tastings of the 2007s reveal them to be silkier and more polished young than the firmer 2006s. Needless to say, it will be fascinating to follow the evolution of both vintages over the coming years.
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2006
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2006
2016 - 2026
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Giacomo Neri describes 2007 as a year with a warm spring followed by a cold, dry summer. Neri is one of the few growers who considers 2007 cooler than 2006, showing just how diverse Montalcino is. Temperatures were unusually warm during the spring, but then moderated over a coolish summer that saw very little rain. Acidities are a bit higher in 2007 than 2006. All that said, my tastings of the 2007s reveal them to be silkier and more polished young than the firmer 2006s. Needless to say, it will be fascinating to follow the evolution of both vintages over the coming years.
00
2004
2024 - 2036
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Another estate that I didn’t pay enough attention to fifteen years ago, Casanova di Neri has since made a believer out of me. Tasting these two 2004s is likely to have the same effect on nearly any collector. The 2004 Cerretalto is a reference point wine in the region, as it remains today, and the 2004 Tenuta Nuova displays a sex appeal that keeps the taster returning for more. Both wines are flat-out stunning.
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2004
2015 - 2021
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This is a mixed set of wines from Casanova di Neri. I tasted these four wines twice, once at the estate and again from bottles of my cellar, where the wines were slightly fresher than they were at the property. On both occasions I found wines that have not aged particularly well both within the context of the respective vintages and relative to the peer group of top estates in which Casanova di Neri is usually placed. The one bright spot is the 2005 Tenuta Nuova, which is a lovely wine.
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2004
2013 - 2024
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Proprietor Giacomo Neri makes some of the richest, most textured Brunellos readers will come across. The house style favors a lush expression of fruit with a softness that makes the wines very appealing upon release. In recent years the wines have become more elegant, with less of the excessive heaviness that characterized prior vintages. Based on what I tasted from barrel, future vintages hold quite a bit of promise as well.
00
2004
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2001
2013 - 2019
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2000
2013 - 2017
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Giacomo Neri makes some of the most exciting modern-styled Brunellos in the zone. Neri is a fervent believer in low yields and while his wines boast notable concentration they also show remarkable elegance and expressiveness. The estate produces three Brunellos from its extensive holdings throughout the region. The regular bottling is made from the estate's home vineyard located in the northern part of the zone. It is also aged in cask for three years, making it the most classic of the three wines. The Tenuta Nuova is a decidedly more contemporary Brunello. Made from vines located in the southern part of the zone, it offers a riper, richer expression of Sangiovese. These two micro-climates offer significantly different characteristics. “In a typical vintage there can be as much as two weeks' difference in the vegetative cycle between our vineyards in the northern and southern parts of the zone. I think of our Brunello as a more ethereal wine, whereas the Tenuta Nuova is a wine with more color, softer texture and lower acidity,” says Neri.
In outstanding vintages the estate produces its top bottling, the barrique-aged Cerretalto, from vineyards located near the winery. “The Cerretalto is made from a selection of our oldest vineyards. We bottle this Brunello only when the fruit is of exceptional quality and the resulting wine has developed the complexity we are looking for during its aging in our cellars. It is not an easy wine to make as the plants offer significant challenges. They are the earliest to flower and the latest to reach maturity. Because of the longer maturation cycle there is more risk that something can go wrong during the growing season.”
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1999
2013 - 2019
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