2017 Canon
France
Saint Emilion
Bordeaux
Red
77% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc
00
2027 - 2057
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2022 - 2045
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2022 - 2045
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Readers will know how much I admire the work that has been done at Château Canon. Since I have tasted Bordeaux professionally from the end of the 1990s, it was always the château waiting for its time to come. It always possessed exceptional terroir but it needed investment in the winery and a change in attitude. That came from the tireless work of former estate manager John Kolasa who turned a slightly woebegone estate into a strong performer. Now Nicolas Audebert and Stéphane Bonnasse continue that work. The 2015 and 2016 Canon were truly exceptional, raising the bar to the highest level. It would be difficult for the 2017 to match those twin titans. The growing season was more challenging even if there was negligible frost damage; only 300 vines touched on the plateau and not blended. Tasted on three or four occasions, including at the property, it is a strong and capable Saint-Émilion within the context of the growing season. You can either see it negatively as a “come down” from the heights of the previous two vintages but instead, it is a test of mettle to gauge how it performs in a trickier vintage and on the evidence here, it remains one of the finest within Saint-Émilions.
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