France
Saint Estèphe 3e Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
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In this challenging year, Calon-Segur began the harvest in mid-September, but picked the bulk of its cabernet at the beginning of October. Today wines here feature 50% new oak, and half of the malolactic fermentation is done in barrel, which proprietor Denise Capbern-Gasqueton feels gives the wine more texture and richness and helps the tannins and wood marry successfully. The '96 was on its finings and untastable at the time of my visit.
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Calon-Ségur. Grape sugars were reportedly higher here in '95 than in the previous year, with merlot particularly ripe: the estate picked some merlot as early as September 12 and got potential alcohol levels as high as 13.6%. I was still a bit put off by some finishing greenness that I did not find in many other classified growths from the northern Médoc. The '94 here has developed a more pronounced note of underripe skins.
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