2003 Barolo Brovia

On my latest visit to this estate, Giacinto Brovia was barely able to contain his enthusiasm for the (not-yet-picked) 2007 nebbiolo crop, which he believed offered the potential to be one of the greatest Barolo vintages of his lifetime. But 2004 is no slouch here. According to daughter Cristina Brovia, it's a "traditional, outstanding vintage-rich and classic. " The Brovias did a lot of green harvesting to bring down the crop load to about 45 hectoliters per hectare. In fact, added Elena Brovia, Cristina's sister, there was actually more fruit in 2001 due to some rain at the end of the growing season. In contrast, noted Alex Sanchez, Elena's husband, "we couldn't cut off any leaves in 2003 because the grapes needed the shade. " Nor was this extreme growing season a year for serious green pruning, he added, as the crop was already too concentrated. "We like the 2003s," Alex summarized, "but they're obviously not going to be long-aging wines. "

Brovia remains one of the region's most overlooked wineries. Readers who enjoy traditionally made Barolos should make a point of checking out th is estate, whose wines remain very well-priced considering the quality. During my most recent v isit I had the opportunity to taste a broad selection of Barolos from vintages 1996 through 2000 and the wines were simply gorgeous. These 2003s are also successful, although they will require patience and/or significant aeration.