2000 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia

Brovia's 2000s are pretty much in line with what I tasted at most properties. Aromatically the wines are fairly far along in their maturation although there is enough density of fruit and tannic structure to make me think the wines may remain at this stage for some time. The Brovias think the 2000s will remain at their current plateau for a number of years. They may ultimately be right, but it's not a bet I would be willing to take, as the risks are decidedly skewed towards the downside. I don't see much upside potential in the 2000s, nor any compelling reason to hang on to the bottles for too much longer.

The Brovias have hit a home run in 2001, with a set of Barolos that offer deep color, superb depth of flavor and powerful structure for aging. Cristina Brovia describes 2001 as "similar to 1996 but with sweeter tannins," which sounds to me like a Platonic ideal for Barolo. (Giacinto Brovia is now helped by daughters Cristina and Elena, both of whom have enology degrees, and Elena's husband Alex Sanchez. )These are classically made Barolos that normally receive a three-week maceration in cement tanks, which Elena says are ideal for keeping the temperature of fermentation down. Typically about ten days of post-fermentation maceration are done before the wines go into 30-hectoliter barrels made of French oak. Prior to '95, the family used considerably larger barrels, but Cristina noted that the 30-hectoliter size produces wines with better balance and does a better job of retaining terroir character. "The larger barrels made tougher wines," she admitted. "Now our wines can actually be tasted after two or three years in bottle. "