2004 Branaire-Ducru
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2024 - 2034
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2020 - 2032
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"Two thousand six was shaping up as a great year until September 10," noted manager Jean-Dominique Videau. "In accumulated degree days since March 1, this was the second hottest year on record after 2003, and hydric stress was an issue. By September 11, some of our merlot had passed 14.5%. We had to start picking it by the 18th, because the fruit was ripe and vulnerable to rot." Ultimately the yields were similar to those of 2005, although the average of 44 hectoliters per hectare included some cabernet sauvignon whose yields were brought down to 30 owing to coulure Branaire has been an outperformer in recent years, and is still a relative bargain: as recently as 2004, the ex-chateau price to negociants was 14.5 Euros.
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Branaire has crafted a concentrated and classic 2005 that combines high alcohol with a pH that's on the low side for this estate. But president Patrick Maroteau notes that both the pH and the acidity are lower than 2004 levels. Production here was 42 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 50+ in 2004 and less than 30 in 2003. Maroteau notes that generally lower yields today, in conjunction with harvesting dates that are a full 10 to 12 days later than those of barely a decade ago, are producing wines with huge polyphenol levels but riper tannins than ever before. The IPTs in 1995 and 1996, he told me, were 57 and 59 respectively, whereas in 2003 and 2005 they are 71 and 73.
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Hydric stress in 2004 kept the individual grapes to average size, noted president Patrick Maroteau, explaining why the new wine has such a solid structure. Maroteau pointed out that the ultimate production of 50.4 hectoliters per hectare in 2004 is not much higher than the 2000 vintage's 48. He added that improvements in the vineyards have allowed this property to gain eight to ten days of maturity since the early '90s, and today's wines are richer in polyphenols as a result.
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