2003 Branaire-Ducru
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Branaire has crafted a concentrated and classic 2005 that combines high alcohol with a pH that's on the low side for this estate. But president Patrick Maroteau notes that both the pH and the acidity are lower than 2004 levels. Production here was 42 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 50+ in 2004 and less than 30 in 2003. Maroteau notes that generally lower yields today, in conjunction with harvesting dates that are a full 10 to 12 days later than those of barely a decade ago, are producing wines with huge polyphenol levels but riper tannins than ever before. The IPTs in 1995 and 1996, he told me, were 57 and 59 respectively, whereas in 2003 and 2005 they are 71 and 73.
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Hydric stress in 2004 kept the individual grapes to average size, noted president Patrick Maroteau, explaining why the new wine has such a solid structure. Maroteau pointed out that the ultimate production of 50.4 hectoliters per hectare in 2004 is not much higher than the 2000 vintage's 48. He added that improvements in the vineyards have allowed this property to gain eight to ten days of maturity since the early '90s, and today's wines are richer in polyphenols as a result.
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According to President Patrick Maroteau, the key to the vintage was the well-timed rains in August that revived the vines' leaves and restarted photosynthesis. "We had seven millimeters of rain on August 16th that ended the heat wave, then another 14 millimeters four days later. Still, at the beginning of September, we thought the fruit lacked structure and polyphenols, and that color would be hard to extract. The 40 millimeters of rain we had between September 2 and 6 was critical to the quality of the vintage, although by the 8th we were afraid that the rather fragile merlot skins were on the verge of rotting. But at that point we were saved by a wind from the east that dried the grapes." The very small grapes produced a yield of just 31 hectoliters per hectare, compared to 37 in 2002 and 48 in 2000. As evidence of how much lower yields are today at Bordeaux's more serious chateaux, Maroteau noted that production here was 64 hectoliters per hectare in 1989, a vintage that's widely considered to be an outstanding one for Branaire.
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