2009 Cirsion (Rioja)
$325 (2012)
Spain
Rioja
Red
Tempranillo (2012 vintage)
00
2009
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2012
2021 - 2032
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2011
2021 - 2027
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2010
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2007
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2005
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2003
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2001
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2000
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1999
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1998
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The most recent addition to the Haro wine scene, established in 1991, Bodegas Roda is already making one of Rioja top modern-style wines. Roda owns 12 parcels in Rioja Alta, at the northerly limits of the appellation and featuring a range of soils, subsoils, altitudes and microclimates. The bodega also uses a bit of garnacha from 80-year-old vines in Rioja Baja (Roda purchased half of this holding this year). Roda supplements its estate fruit by renting additional vineyards, but uses its own people to do the harvest, making a first selection in the vineyards and a second cut using a table de trie. Each parcel is picked by the entire team in a single day, using 20-kilo plastic boxes to avoid manhandling the grapes before they come into the winery. The principals here are strong believers in the superiority of old vines: the average age of their own vines is now in the 50 to 52 year range. Gobelet pruning, in which three branches of the vine are trained at different heights, ensures maximum openness of the fruit to sun. But although this pruning system results in riper fruit, the estate still harvests late. While the finished wines are typically 13.5% alcohol (and a reasonably low 3.4 pH), says director/enologist August?Santolaya, it's really the maturity of polyphenols, rather than simply the level of grape sugars, that is most critical. In the winery, 12- to 20-hectoliter wood casks have been specially designed to vinify each of the estate's parcels separately. Roda goes for maximum extraction of skin character, doing some cold maceration prior to the onset of fermentation, allowing the fermentation temperature to climb as high as 32oC, and both pumping over and punching down to maximize polyphenol content (but the wines are not necessarily more tannic, notes Santolaya). The different parcels spend a full month on their skins, then undergo malolactic in the same large barrels before going into barriques in December without clarification. All French oak, one-third new each vintage, is used, and the wines are racked without being pumped on a Bordeaux schedule. The selection for the estate's grand vin(Roda I) is made at the end of barrel aging (bottling takes place after 18 to 24 months in oak). Roda I, according to Santolaya, is selected for longevity, while Roda II is the "easier" wine, generally put on the market four or five months earlier than Roda I.
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