2011 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

When Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi Santi, asked if I’d be up for some research and experiments focused on the vineyards during my visit, he really meant it. While touring the estate, both old vines and newly planted, it was explained how the goal is not to undo what had come before, but to simply put the resources they had to better use. Hence, a study of soils, expositions and genetic material on the estate, and how to use it best. This push is led by Federico Radi, a Sangiovese maven, as well as Viticulture and Winemaking Director of Biondi-Santi. Federico Radi cut his teeth at estates such as Villa Mangiacane, Isole e Olena and Belguardo – Marchesi Mazzei. The tour ended with a sit-down focus on each of the parcels that had been identified throughout the estate, with samples in each glass that had all been vinified the same, yet separate from each other. Each of these wines were then broken down into soil compositions, elevations, PH, acidity, alcohol and more. It was a testing yet eye-opening session on terroir, and it’s exactly this kind of focus that the new team has brought on board here. This year, the 2013 Riserva, as well as the 1983 Riserva La Storica, have been released, and are both included in this report, along with the 2015 Riserva and 1985 Riserva La Storica, which will be released in 2022. Both the 1983 and 1985 were reconditioned by Franco Biondi Santi himself in the year 2000. The 1983 was the first vintage that the Riserva was made in the (at the time) new winery and fermented in large, vertical oak vats, as opposed to concrete. As for the 1985, well, let’s just say that it’s pure magic in a bottle. Also, tasting the new 2018 Rosso di Montalcino Tenuta Greppo was an exciting addition to our lineup. Last year, I spoke of the estate's desire to improve on its quality, such as starting to use a sorting table and including fruit from their lower-elevation Brunello vineyards. While the official note will be released in the upcoming Rosso report, what I can say is that this is a slight departure from the austerity and oxidative style usually found in their Rosso, and a more ethereal effort focused on purity of fruit. When all is said and done, this team is very different from what you’d expect from the Biondi-Santi of old, yet what they’re doing with this historic estate has me very excited about the future.

When Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi Santi, asked if I’d be up for some research and experiments focused on the vineyards during my visit, he really meant it. While touring the estate, both old vines and newly planted, it was explained how the goal is not to undo what had come before, but to simply put the resources they had to better use. Hence, a study of soils, expositions and genetic material on the estate, and how to use it best. This push is led by Federico Radi, a Sangiovese maven, as well as Viticulture and Winemaking Director of Biondi-Santi. Federico Radi cut his teeth at estates such as Villa Mangiacane, Isole e Olena and Belguardo – Marchesi Mazzei. The tour ended with a sit-down focus on each of the parcels that had been identified throughout the estate, with samples in each glass that had all been vinified the same, yet separate from each other. Each of these wines were then broken down into soil compositions, elevations, PH, acidity, alcohol and more. It was a testing yet eye-opening session on terroir, and it’s exactly this kind of focus that the new team has brought on board here. This year, the 2013 Riserva, as well as the 1983 Riserva La Storica, have been released, and are both included in this report, along with the 2015 Riserva and 1985 Riserva La Storica, which will be released in 2022. Both the 1983 and 1985 were reconditioned by Franco Biondi Santi himself in the year 2000. The 1983 was the first vintage that the Riserva was made in the (at the time) new winery and fermented in large, vertical oak vats, as opposed to concrete. As for the 1985, well, let’s just say that it’s pure magic in a bottle. Also, tasting the new 2018 Rosso di Montalcino Tenuta Greppo was an exciting addition to our lineup. Last year, I spoke of the estate's desire to improve on its quality, such as starting to use a sorting table and including fruit from their lower-elevation Brunello vineyards. While the official note will be released in the upcoming Rosso report, what I can say is that this is a slight departure from the austerity and oxidative style usually found in their Rosso, and a more ethereal effort focused on purity of fruit. When all is said and done, this team is very different from what you’d expect from the Biondi-Santi of old, yet what they’re doing with this historic estate has me very excited about the future.

I was extremely impressed by every course at the Dysart. This is Michelin-approved fine dining, as it ought to be. The expertise of the Chef and his team shone through in practically every dish to such a degree that only distance from central London can explain why this restaurant is not more lauded.

Biondi-Santi continues on its path of refinement while paying close attention to respecting the traditions of Montalcino’s most famous family. With the release of the 2017 Rosso di Montalcino Tenuta Greppo, we are now seeing the first wine that the new owners have had full control over from start to finish. The changes are subtle, including the use of a sorting table (which was done by hand in the vineyard previously) and the addition of fruit from beyond the lower-elevation vineyards. The goal is to improve the quality of the Rosso, a wine that already demands a high tariff for its category, in order to bring a new generation of wine drinkers to the brand. Giampiero Bertolini, CEO of Biondi-Santi, explained that they see the wine less as a Rosso and more as a second wine to the Brunello Annata. Having the ability to taste the 2017 and 2016 vintages close to one another was insightful, but it spoke less of any stylistic changes and more of the completely different nature of these two vintages. In both cases, the Rosso underwent twelve months of refinement in large Slavonian oak and one year in bottle prior to release. As for the 2015 Brunello, it’s a bit of a departure from the expectations of Biondi-Santi requiring over a decade of cellaring to enter its drinking window. That said, it’s a stunning and lively example of this ripe vintage. The only changes made here was to use more of a parcel-by-parcel and barrel-by-barrel approach to creating the wine. In the past, the Brunello was rotated through the different barrels in the cellar at least twice a year throughout its three years of maturation; while today, the barrels are blended only prior to bottling. What’s more, there will be a 2015 Riserva released in 2022.

There is a great deal of news coming out of Montalcino’s oldest, most storied estate. In fact, ever since the sale of Biondi-Santi to the EPI group in 2016, the estate has been slowly undergoing changes, with an important focus on the study of their individual vineyard plots. World famous terroir expert Pedro Parra has been brought on as a consultant and among other things, he has proceeded to burrow 33 holes on the estate property to help analyze the characteristics of the property’s various soil types. Based on the results and his indications, twelve specific plots will now be followed closely over the course of the next few years with microvinifications carried out from each one. Clearly, the goal is to gain in precision thanks to the information gathered on each plot and potential wine. The estate has also added small oak 10 and 15Hl barrels (from Garbellotto, the historic Italian barrel supplier) and cement tanks to their vinification and aging arsenal. Also, the estate is planning to uproot part of the older vines that are virus-affected and are no longer producing the quality or volume of grapes they would like (however, they have kept all the extremely old vines planted in the 1930s near the estate). Biondi-Santi has also bought 6.6 hectares of Sangiovese vines designated for Brunello production, an amphitheater in the southeastern sector of Montalcino not far removed from the estate (the vines grow at the same height as at Il Greppo and are south east facing). CEO Giampiero Bertolini told me that in order to decide where to buy, they evaluated sites at 23 different estates (twelve of which he went to see personally). And so Biondi-Santi owns 33 hectares of vineyards today (only of which a little less than 2 hectares are of Rosso di Montalcino-only designated vines). In this light, it is not without interest that Biondi-Santi is thinking of making a little more Rosso every year, given that there is apparently a huge request for the wine and they don’t really make that much currently (only 20,000 bottles/year of Rosso versus 60,000 of the classic Brunello and 15,000 of the Brunello Riserva). And in keeping pace with modern times, the estate has also been working on distribution and labeling; for example the word “Riserva” now appears on the front label, beginning with the 2012 Riserva just released this year (the word “Riserva” was previously only found on the neck label). Last but not least, the estate has also begun bottling magnums (believe it or not, Biondi-Santi had never done so before; in the 2012 vintage, 500 were made as an initial celebratory launch, but in the future, more will be produced). Now that may seem like a lot of changes all at once, but Bertolini underscores everything is being done slowly and carefully, or in his words “… evolution without revolution”.

Biondi Santi remains a beacon for all that is traditional in Montalcino, although in recent years, the family has allowed some of the wines to become more accessible at a younger age, most notably the Rosso, and also, in certain years, the Brunello Annata. Among other things, Jacopo Biondi Santi prefers a lighter pressing than his father, which results in wines with sweeter tannin and softer overall structure from the outset. It will be interesting to see how things develop. As revered as the Biondi Santi Brunellos are, the reality is that their showing with age has proven to be uneven, especially in a contemporary context in which wines are judged next to global, rather than local, peers. Tancredi Biondi Santi, Jacopo's son, is spending more time at the family estate and looks poised to carry on the legacy of Montalcino's first family. In addition to these wines, I also tasted all of the Brunellos (Annata and Riserva) in cask. Those wines suggest Biondi Santi fans can look forward to a number of striking wines in the near and medium term future.

I have to say, it is still strange to visit Il Greppo and not see Franco Biondi Santi. I expect to see him come around the corner any minute, his beaming face lighting up the room, but alas, that is not to be, as the great patriarch of Montalcino passed away in 2013. Today, Biondi Santi is managed by Jacopo Biondi Santi, Franco's son. These wines, though, were made by Franco Biondi Santi, and its a thrill to see them in bottle after having followed them in cask for years. In particular, the 2010 Brunello is fabulous. I can hardly wait to taste the Riserva next year. It will be interesting to see how the estate develops under Jacopo Biondi Santi's leadership. Il Greppo was the first estate to announce that they would produce no Brunello at all in the challenging 2014 vintage, which surely comes at a significant cost. On the other hand, I find the now obvious linkage between Il Greppo and Castello di Montepò, the family's Scansano estate, dubious. That association does not elevate Montepò, where the wines have always varied at best, but rather it lessens Il Greppo. Meaningfully. And Il Greppo is THE symbol of Montalcino. I still remember driving by the estate for the first time, which, sad to say was a good 20+ years ago, and imagining what lay behind that impressive row of cypresses. It would be such a shame to see that history and legacy tarnished in any way.

This was my first visit to Biondi Santi following the passing of Franco Biondi Santi last year. Over the years, I enjoyed many tastings here, often going from cask to cask to look at every wine in the cellar. Biondi Santi's son Jacopo, is now running the estate. In 2013, his first vintage, Jacopo Biondi Santi has already made some small but potentially significant changes to winemaking, including encouraging malos that take place right after the alcoholic fermentations, while Franco Biondi Santi preferred to let the wines undergo malo in the spring following the harvest. It is pretty clear Jacopo prefers an overall more controlled environment, so it is going to be interesting to see how things develop over the coming years and decades. A tasting of the 2012s and 2013s from cask revealed two very different approaches, and I stress different rather than making a qualitative judgment on the merit of either. Only time can do that.

Sadly, Franco Biondi Santi passed away just a few short weeks after my most recent visit to Il Greppo. I tasted with Franco Biondi Santi several times over the years. Always impeccably dressed and aristocratic in demeanor, Biondi Santi was unfailingly polite but also passionate in his advocacy of tradition. Biondi Santi would always accompany me throughout the cellar, tasting through all the vintages in barrel, even though advancing age clearly took a toll on his energy level towards the end of his life. Despite his age, Biondi Santi ran Il Greppo with an iron fist. The winery was always clean and well maintained. Nothing happened at the estate without his explicit approval. I saw that once again first hand when I visited earlier this year. As was the custom when he was ill during one of my tastings, we always spoke by phone before I left the property. Mentally, Biondi Santi was as engaged as always.

Today, the young Biondi Santi Brunellos appear less massively tannic and impenetrable than they have in the past. My February tasting ended with the 2012s from cask. For those who haven't heard, 2012 is a potentially outstanding vintage in Montalcino. If the wine I tasted in cask is as phenomenal in bottle, it will be a fitting conclusion to a brilliant career.

Biond-Santi remains a beacon for traditionally made Rosso and Brunello. At 90 years of age, Franco Biondi-Santi insisted on leading my tasting of wines from cask and bottle. The years go by for all of us, but I haven't seen any decrease in Biondi-Santi's enthusiasm and passion. The Biondi-Santi wines are more approachable young than they used to be, but little else appears to have changed. Biondi-Santi harvests on the early side. The wines see long macerations on the skins – in steel for the straight Brunello (also known as the Annata) and oak for the Riserva – and are then aged in large oak casks.

I was fortunate to taste the 2004s many times with Franco Biondi Santi from cask and then, later, from bottle. When Biondi Santi like a wine his face would light up with a child-like enthusiasm. Today, years later, the 2004s are just as special as they were back then. The straight Brunello was particularly impressive this time around.

I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Biondi-Santi this year. Of course, Biondi-Santi is the estate that put Brunello di Montalcino on the map, so it is nice to see this historic property doing so well. These remain some of the most rigorous, age-worthy Brunellos readers will come across. Traditional vinification and aging in large, neutral casks are the rule. Ideally the wines are best left in the cellar for at least a decade after release, but readers will have a very hard time exercising such restraint here. These are magnificent Brunellos.

Franco Biondi Santi believed that the 2001 Riserva would rank amongst many of his longest-lived wines, estimating 70 to 80 years of evolution. After tasting it for myself, I must confess that he may have been right. At twenty years old, the 2001 is still progressing toward its peak at a glacial pace. CEO Giampiero Bertolini speaks of the 2001 growing season as being near perfect, with a cool and wet start, a warm and dry summer, excellent day-to-night temperature swings and a balanced harvest. As is still the case, the Biondi Santi Riserva was sourced from their oldest vines, at least twenty-five years and older. It was fermented with indigenous yeasts in large, vertical oak vats. The wine spent three years in large Slavonian oak prior to bottling. 7,332 bottles were produced.

I was extremely impressed by every course at the Dysart. This is Michelin-approved fine dining, as it ought to be. The expertise of the Chef and his team shone through in practically every dish to such a degree that only distance from central London can explain why this restaurant is not more lauded.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.

One of my favorite places to eat during my Burgundy barrel tastings is Le Bistro de l’Hôtel, located in central Beaune overlooking Place Carnot. Established in 2007 by Stockholm-born Johan Bjorkland, it is upmarket yet unpretentious.

Biondi-Santi is the royal family of Montalcino. The Biondi-Santis have been cultivating grapes and making wine here since at least the mid-1800’s. In the late 1800s, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi, the son of Clemente Santi and Jacopo Biondi, isolated a clone of Sangiovese, known today as Sangiovese Grosso, and began vinifying it on its own, without white grapes, as was then the custom. In doing so, Ferruccio Biondi-Santi invented the wine known today as Brunello di Montalcino. Thus begins the modern-day history of Montalcino’s most famous wine.

A little additional context is in order. Biondi-Santi’s Brunello won awards, was served at important state events and had gained international recognition well before most of the Montalcino estates we know today even existed. It’s hard to imagine, but back then, Montalcino’s most famous wine was the sweet Moscadello di Montalcino and not Brunello.

For most of the last several decades, Il Greppo was managed by, Ferruccio’s grandson, Franco Biondi-Santi. It’s still hard to believe that Franco Biondi-Santi, the patriarch of Montalcino, passed away in early 2013. Every time I visit Il Greppo I expect to see him, but of course it never happens. Always calm, relaxed and impeccably dressed, Biondi-Santi exuded a warm, welcoming personality informed by an aristocratic cordiality from a long-gone time. Visitors were brought into a sitting room for a leisurely chat, after which Biondi-Santi would lead the way into the cellar. For all the years I knew him, when his health allowed Biondi-Santi always conducted the tastings himself, meticulously instructing his cellar workers as we moved from cask to cask. Today, the rich legacy of the estate has passed on to Jacopo Biondi-Santi, Franco’s son, who had to wait until he was a grown man to inherit the family’s crown jewel.

This tasting was remarkable on so many levels. For starters, the seven vintages encompassed most of, if not all, the widely recognized Biondi-Santi benchmarks. All the bottles were sourced directly from the Biondi-Santi family’s personal collection. Specifically, these wines were part of a stock that was sold following the passing of Franco Biondi-Santi and that is now in the market. As Biondi-Santi fans know, each year the estate reconditioned a number of their older wines, topping off old bottles and replacing corks, as is done in Bordeaux from time to time. The documentation accompanying these bottles is impeccable.

The Biondi-Santi Brunellos are known for their sense of classic austerity, and, above all else, their ability to age. Indeed, even at 30, 40 and 50 years of age, the wines retain searing acidity and considerable tannin. Italian wines in general are meant for the dinner table, and that is certainly the case here. The flagship Riserva is sourced from the estate’s oldest vines, which sit at 500 meters above sea level on soils that consist mostly of galestro, a mix of rocks and sand that is characteristic of certain spots in Tuscany. The Riserva is fermented in wood uprights and aged in neutral oak casks. During the era in which these wines were made, the malolactic fermentations were spontaneous and mostly occurred in the spring following the harvest. Stylistically, these fine, mature Riservas show the wilder, more powerful side of Sangiovese.