1998 Cuvée Nicolas François

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This wine was tasted in the Kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, New York, in March 2011

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Billecart-Salmon, based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, makes wines in a style that is all about timeless elegance. These Champagnes are characterized by their supreme elegance and balance. All of the 2008 vins claires I tasted showed remarkable harmony and transparency of site. Much of the aromatic complexity of the wines can be attributed to a preference towards cold temperatures in fermentation, which keeps the wines fresh. The domaine uses Burgundian oak barrels for a portion of the wines. The exact amount of bâtonnage and malolactic fermentation depend on the vintage. Prior to being bottled the wines are blended in a large steel tank to insure consistency, something the estate takes very seriously. In general the non-vintage wines receive 7-9 grams of dosage, while the vintage wines have 5-7 grams, depending on the year. Among current releases, I found the 1998s here to be brilliant, while the 2000s, from a much more challenging growing season, comes across as less refined. The estate does not disclose disgorgement dates, but a code on the foil wrapping which can be traced back to a date.

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