Brut Reserve

Mathieu Roland-Billecart has given his family’s maison a much-needed kick in the rear end since taking over the reins in 2019. For years, Billecart-Salmon was a sleepy maison turning out gorgeous Champagnes at the top end but a number of undistinguished offerings at the lower level. Booking appointments or even getting a reply from the maison was a challenge. That attitude was pervasive at their US importer T. Edward as well because leadership, or lack of it, is a contagious force. Things are remarkably different today. Roland-Billecart is young and dynamic, very much in touch with the modern world. Recent wines made under his tenure show more focus and quality than the past because of greater selection and attention to detail. I was deeply impressed with what I tasted at the maison during a recent visit and then more recently at my office in the US.