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I was very impressed by the 2020s from Bibi Graetz. Instead of relying solely on power, the wines have a clarity and precision that is seldom seen. What’s more, they are balanced enough for long-term maturation that will surely provide fantastic results. The old-vines Colore, with some vines in Lamole reaching up to 135 years old, is deeply inward and youthfully coy yet bursting at the seams and just waiting to emerge deeper and more sensual over time. While the flagship Testamatta, which now contains fruit from a new 12-hectare vineyard in Olmo at 420 meters, is simply stunning. Tasting this wine today is already a pleasure for its freshness and delicacy, yet there’s so much going on beneath the surface that only maturity will reveal.
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