2015 Ontogeny
$95 (2019)
United States
Napa
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon (2019 vintage)
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2015
2018 - 2030
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This is a stellar set of wines from Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo. Bevan now sources fruit from a mind-boggling range of prime vineyards. In 2015, the freakish nature of the vintage has attenuated some of the differences between those sites, while the 2016s are much more delineated and expressive of place. All that is to say the 2015s and 2016s are highly representative of their respective vintages. As always, the Bevan wines are intense and flamboyant, even if they are not quite as over the top as they were in the early days.
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2020
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Russell Bevan made some of the most striking wines I have tasted here. The 2021s are fresh, vibrant and sizzling with energy, yet they have all the flamboyance Bevan fans have come to expect. A number of the 2021s are especially fine. Sadly, there are no 2020s.
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2019
2024 - 2034
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Russell Bevan presented a bevy of wines during our most recent tasting, all of them in the sumptuous, racy style he excels with. As always, I prefer the wines from sites that offer something to play off the opulence Bevan prizes, as those wines strike me as the most complete. Once again, I was super-impressed with Ontogeny, which is a great choice for readers on a budget. A few wines in the range were missing from my tasting, but I hope to add them to this report shortly.
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2018
2023 - 2033
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Russell Bevan’s 2018s and 2019s are superb. The wines are rich, powerful and exuberant, as they always are, but they also convey tons of site character. That makes tasting through this range fascinating. My preference in the range leans towards wines that offer a level of contrast to the flamboyant expression of fruit Bevan likes to coax from his sites.
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2018
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The only problem with Russell Bevan’s 2018s is going to be choosing which wines to focus on, unless readers have the means to buy them all. I don’t really know where to start, except to say 2018 is the finest vintage I have tasted here. The 2018s are a sort of perfect storm that melds together the trademark richness Bevan seeks, with a balanced, long growing season and increasingly better vineyard sites. The result is a collection of wines I can only describe as thrilling. It’s hard to pick favorites, but the Saunders Franc, the Dr. Crane Cabernet and the Sentinel Ridge Cabernet are among the most impressive wines in a collection of 2018s that goes from strength to strength. The 2017s turned out well, although the challenges of the year are impossible to fully escape. Bevan was one of the most open and transparent winemakers in the valley when I stopped by to taste the 2017s from barrel. He showed me a wider range of wines than anyone else. That said, it is pretty clear that while the 2017s largely turned out quite well, the effects of heat expressed in elevated ripeness in some wines and hard tannins in others, is evident.
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2017
2020 - 2024
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The only problem with Russell Bevan’s 2018s is going to be choosing which wines to focus on, unless readers have the means to buy them all. I don’t really know where to start, except to say 2018 is the finest vintage I have tasted here. The 2018s are a sort of perfect storm that melds together the trademark richness Bevan seeks, with a balanced, long growing season and increasingly better vineyard sites. The result is a collection of wines I can only describe as thrilling. It’s hard to pick favorites, but the Saunders Franc, the Dr. Crane Cabernet and the Sentinel Ridge Cabernet are among the most impressive wines in a collection of 2018s that goes from strength to strength. The 2017s turned out well, although the challenges of the year are impossible to fully escape. Bevan was one of the most open and transparent winemakers in the valley when I stopped by to taste the 2017s from barrel. He showed me a wider range of wines than anyone else. That said, it is pretty clear that while the 2017s largely turned out quite well, the effects of heat expressed in elevated ripeness in some wines and hard tannins in others, is evident.
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2016
2019 - 2028
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This is a knock-out set of wines from Russell Bevan. The 2016s are rich and sumptuous, as all of his wines are, and yet they also convey the essence of site. Speaking of vineyards, Bevan now owns or controls a number of top-notch sites that inform these wines. The Cabernets from Oakville are especially of note. Readers should expect unapologetically rich, full-throttle Cabernets.
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2014
2017 - 2022
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This is another impressive set of wines from Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo. In what seems like a very short time, Bevan and De Crescenzo have put together a formidable collection of Cabernets from top sites in Napa Valley and Sonoma, including several super-choice parcels. Last year, Bevan and De Crescenzo purchased the Saunders vineyard in Oakville. As if that weren't enough, a new winery at Tench is their newest project. As always, the Bevan wines showcase the opulent, flamboyant side of Napa Valley.
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2013
2016 - 2028
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It's hit after hit with these new releases from Russell Bevan and Victoria De Crescenzo, who have put together a stellar set of sites, including their new estate parcel, Saunders, in Oakville. As always, the Bevan wines are opulent and intense, with tons of immediacy and voluptuousness to burn. Personally I am drawn most to the Oakville Cabernets, but it's hard to go wrong with any of these wines, including the entry-level Ontogeny, which showed beautifully even when placed in the middle of all of the single vineyard wines.
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2010
2014 - 2022
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Russell Bevan is one of the more outspoken producers in Napa Valley, and so are his wines. These sumptuous, beautifully textured reds are full of personality. Made to be accessible right upon release, the Bevan wines are rich, intense and hugely delicious. Russell Bevan is one of the growing number of producers using high amounts of Cabernet Franc in some of his wines, and I have to say, the results are striking,
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