1996 Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve

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The historic Beringer winery was founded by the German-born brothers Jacob and Frederick Beringer in 1876. This March, Beringer’s iconic Hudson House was the site of an extraordinary tasting of nearly four decades of Beringer Vineyard’s Cabernet Sauvignon Private Reserve, going back to its maiden vintage in 1977.

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Ed Sbragia views the '96s as solidly structured wines; the whites, he says, were especially tight and minerally at the start. In comparison, the wines from 1997 appear to be more forward, he adds, and it remains to be seen whether they will be as big as the '96s. A recent development here has been the growing number of small-lot, vineyard-designated cabernets designed to showcase the different soils and microclimates of Beringer various sites. Yet the winery's Private Reserve cabernet, a blend of components from several vineyards (typically based on Chabot and Bancroft, but often including fruit from State Lane and the Home Vineyard near the winery), remains Beringer's most consistently outstanding and complete red wine.

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Among the highlights of my exhaustive tasting at Beringer in early March were a number of new vineyard-designated cabernets (Marston, Tre Colline), small quantities of which Beringer is now bottling in the better vintages for sale primarily at the winery. Most of the fruit from these top holdings is still reserved for the winery regular reserve program, but the separately bottled lots afford the winery the opportunity to study the distinctive terroir character of these vineyards over time. I continue to be impressed by the consistently high quality of wine produced by Beringer, despite the scale of production and the number of releases. Few of California's topnotch winemakers spend as much time each year minding the store as Ed Sbragia.

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