2019 Bélair-Monange
France
Saint Émilion Grand Cru Classé
Bordeaux
Red
98% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc (2024 vintage)
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2019
2025 - 2045
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2024
2029 - 2050
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This year, I tasted the range of wines from Ets. Jean-Pierre Moueix at Belair-Monange, avoiding the drive through Libourne. It was a shorter tasting because three major cuvées were not made in 2024: Lagrange, La Grave and, most significantly, Hosanna.
“We did not produce Lagrange as it’s north-facing and humid, La Grave as it was hit by the tail of the hailstorm, and Hosanna because the water table went up quite high, 60 cm from the surface, so there was no hydric stress,” Moueix told me. “We had quite a few storms in September. They were very localised so you had to be able to take risks. Flowering was spun out, so the early-maturing soils suffered poor fruit set. The late-maturing soils suffered less. As we approached harvest, we found that you could have seven to ten days between two berries. So we waited and accepted that we would lose the early-ripening berries, which meant you had to pick quickly, up to 12 hectares per day. We picked the plateau on September 18-19 and were happy with that. Saint-Émilion started a little later on September 23, with one big day of harvesting on September 25. Sorting was key. We put aside around 14% of the fruit, compared to 1-2% in a normal year. We conducted a slow extraction, stopped pump-overs once the fermentation had finished, and did brassage, leaving the wine under the cap and extracting from the top.”
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2024
2034 - 2054
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2023
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2022
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2022
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2021
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2021
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“It is a vintage of men and women,” Edouard Moueix began when we repaired to his office for a discussion about the growing season. What did he mean? Did the women make better wines? “No, I mean that there was no right or wrong. You had to change strategy. At every step, there were two elements, those we could fight and those we could not. It was a complicated year. We saw the importance of people that live on the vineyard and can react when vital to do so. We did quite a lot of green harvesting so that vines could concentrate on fewer clusters. We had to take quite a few risks during the harvest as the forecast was always forecasting tremendous rain, rain that never came. When you are a team, you take risks compared to if you work on your own. We were supposed to have 80-100mm but we got just 2mm as the storms passed north, more towards Cognac. We conducted a gentle extraction as we were looking for elegance. You had to be very careful to obtain the right tannins otherwise they could be harsh and green. So we drained the vats after 18 days of cuvaison, with fewer pump-overs to obtain the minimum needed for colour, tannins, polyphenols etc. since the seeds were not ripe. We have not chaptalised and we have 13.2-13.8% alcohol with no vin de presse, which is quite unusual. We usually blend this before malolactic, before we found that the addition did not work. We did saignée for lots that had larger berries but nothing more than usual. It is a heterogenous vintage. We were trying to win battles against the conditions.”
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2020
2030 - 2065
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