1998 Belair
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The humid limestone caves in which Belair ages are plagued by slightly dank aromas of mushroom and mold, and these aromas have a way of finding their way into the wine, in the process drying and suppressing the fruit even before the wines are bottled (rather late bottling here may well be exacerbating this problem). My recent tasting of '98, '97 and '96 Belair allowed me to follow three vintages as they were increasingly compromised by their musty environment.
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