1995 Belair
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On these cool, chalky soils a good portion of the fruit was completely green as late as August 15, according to Pascal Delbeck. He harvested until October 1, ultimately making one-third less wine than usual in '97, with a relatively low 15% cabernet franc. The '96 Belair showed well on my visit, though it remains to be seen whether it will go into bottle without the slightly truffley, mushroom quality that has characterized several recent vintages of this wine. Indeed, it may well be that the chilly, very humid limestone caves in which Belair has long aged may not be the ideal place to raise wine (see my notes on Ausone).
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Winemaker Pascal Delbeck has experimented in the past with some cold maceration of the Belair cabernet franc, in search of the variety's perfume. But with the good ripeness in '95, he had little fear of extracting green tannins and thus had no need to do a cold soak.
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