2008 Barolo

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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.

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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.

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The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.

I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.

For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.

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2018 - 2038

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Maria Teresa Mascarello cuts a much more laid-back figure than her late father, who was quite outspoken. Other than that, the changes here over the last few years have been quite measured. The old casks have been replaced and there is more emphasis on cleanliness in the cellar and better work in the vineyards, all of which are allowing the wines to unleash their full potential. These wines – the entire range – are distinguished for their exceptional purity and delineation, but the highlight is of course the Barolo, which is still made from a blend of vineyards and aged in cask. It's great to see Maria Teresa Mascarello receiving all the attention she and her wines so richly deserve. Mascarello recently appointed the Rare Wine Company her US importer, which means American consumers should have far better access to these wines than in recent years, and that is great news.

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It's hard to go wrong with anything Maria Teresa Mascarello is making these days. While much of the winery's past fame was built on the sheer charm of Mascarello's father, Bartolo, an icon in Piemonte, the wines weren't always of the same stature. They certainly are today. At the time of my visit, Mascarello had not yet bottled her 2010 Langhe Nebiolo (note the traditional spelling with one 'b') as the malos progressed at snail's pace and the wine was not ready.

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"In 2008 we picked the barbera after the nebbiolo due to its high acidity," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. "It was a classic vintage with a normal harvest time: we didn't begin picking until October 12." Mascarello does not consider 2007 to be a classic vintage in the vein of 2008, 2006 and 2004. "It was a warm vintage following a warm winter. Our August weather was more like September, with cool nights. So although the wines have high alcohol, they have fresh fruit and they're not heavy." But she's convinced that the 2008 Barolo will age longer.

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