2007 Barolo

This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.

It's hard to go wrong with anything Maria Teresa Mascarello is making these days. While much of the winery's past fame was built on the sheer charm of Mascarello's father, Bartolo, an icon in Piemonte, the wines weren't always of the same stature. They certainly are today. At the time of my visit, Mascarello had not yet bottled her 2010 Langhe Nebiolo (note the traditional spelling with one 'b') as the malos progressed at snail's pace and the wine was not ready.

"In 2008 we picked the barbera after the nebbiolo due to its high acidity," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. "It was a classic vintage with a normal harvest time: we didn't begin picking until October 12." Mascarello does not consider 2007 to be a classic vintage in the vein of 2008, 2006 and 2004. "It was a warm vintage following a warm winter. Our August weather was more like September, with cool nights. So although the wines have high alcohol, they have fresh fruit and they're not heavy." But she's convinced that the 2008 Barolo will age longer.

Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello's best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn't always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria Teresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria Teresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father's legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.