2006 Barolo

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2022 - 2042

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2021 - 2046

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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.

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2021 - 2046

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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.

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2021 - 2036

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Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello's best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn't always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria Teresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria Teresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father's legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.

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2016 - 2031

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This is the strongest set of new releases I have tasted at Bartolo Mascarello in some time. I would be hard pressed to name another winery that has made such important strides in improving quality and consistency in recent years. The 2006 Barolo is fantastic, as it often is, but this year I was especially taken with the quality of the entry-level wines. Everything about Mascarello remains rigidly traditional in style, with the sole exception of barrel aging for the Barolo, which is a touch shorter than it used to be.

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Maria Teresa Mascarello noted that she started picking Barolo on virtually the same day in 2006 and 2005 (September 23 and 24, respectively) and that in the earlier year she finished two days before the rainy spell arrived at the beginning of October. She noted that the 2005s are "distinguished by their elegance," while the 2006s are stronger than the 2005s and a bit like the 2004s "in intensity, body and structure." The 2005 here has turned out very well, but the 2006 seemed five years younger than that wine. In fact, the bottle of '06 I tasted with Maria Teresa struck me as the finest vintage for this classically styled Barolo in a long time. Maria Teresa added that 2007 was a warm, dry year with cool nights, producing perfumed, fruity nebbiolo and barbera. The Mascarello Barolos spend 25 to 30 days on their skins, including pre- and post-fermentation maceration, and although Maria Teresa would like to keep the temperature from exceeding 30oC, her use of cement tanks means that the temperature is different every year-"very artisanal," as she describes it.

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