2001 Barolo

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2022 - 2032

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2016 - 2031

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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Our second flight looks at four vintages in the late 1990s and early 2000s that are also in their prime drinking windows, with the possible exception of the 1999, which is still quite young.

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2013 - 2021

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2013 - 2026

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Maria Teresa Mascarello assures me that she will absolutely continue to make her wines in the style of her father and grandfather, which is to say traditional in every sense. “The idea of a perfect wine doesn't exist. I am trying to make an honest wine, one that reflects all of the qualities of our territory, both its strengths as well as its flaws,” says Mascarello. “There are only a few sites that can really give expressive wines. Our ancestors used to look at the hills in the winter, and where the snow melted first, they planted Nebbiolo. Today Nebbiolo is planted everywhere. For example, the vineyard where we have our Dolcetto has a good exposure, but it was never considered a first-rate exposure, so it was always planted with Dolcetto....today it is all Nebbiolo, only we have kept Dolcetto in that vineyard.” The estate produces one Barolo, which made from a blend of some of the best plots in the region. The vineyards are typically harvested in the following order: San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Torriglione, Rue, and the grapes are vinified together. The wines are fermented in glass lined concrete for 15-20 days, without the aid of temperature control or selected yeasts. The wine then ages in medium and large casks for 3 years before being released in the fall of the fourth year after the vintage. Mascarello's wines remain some of the most age-worthy wines of the region. They are perhaps a bit less clean and perfect than the modern wines we have become accustomed to, but these highly idiosyncratic wines deserve attention from those who seek to understand what traditional Barolo is all about. That said, these are delicate wines that are made very naturally and there can be quite a bit of bottle variation.

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This estate might as well have taken the entire 2002 growing season off, as ultimately they made only a bit of dolcetto and a bit of nebbiolo but no barbera or Barolo. "It was almost a lost year," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. Of the three vintages I tasted, I liked the 2001 best; it was showing well after the recent bottling. The '99, which was a bit stunned by the bottling when I tasted it two years ago, still retains a dry edge and is not yet showing the richness of the best examples from this vintage. According to Maria Teresa, nothing has changed here, except for the fact that the family did a light eggwhite clarification in 2000 and 2001 for the first time.

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