2007 Barolo
Italy
Barolo
Piedmont
Red
Nebbiolo (2021 vintage)
00
2007
2016 - 2047
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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.
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2021
2027 - 2041
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Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2021 Barolo is a quintessential wine for the vintage in its pliant fruit and understated depth. Harvest took place between the first and second week of October. The 2021 saw 48 days on the skins with submerged cap maceration before being racked into cask in November. Mascarello's entry-level wines are equally inviting, although small production makes them hard to find and pricier in the market than they really should be.
00
2020
2028 - 2040
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Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2021 Barolo is a quintessential wine for the vintage in its pliant fruit and understated depth. Harvest took place between the first and second week of October. The 2021 saw 48 days on the skins with submerged cap maceration before being racked into cask in November. Mascarello's entry-level wines are equally inviting, although small production makes them hard to find and pricier in the market than they really should be.
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2020
2028 - 2045
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Maria Teresa Mascarello describes 2020 as a year with a warm, early spring, then good rains in May and June, and a warm summer with no heat spikes. The Nebbiolo harvest took place from October 2 to October 8. Mascarello gave her 2020 55 days on the skins, with submerged cap maceration, the approach she uses for better vintages. At this stage, I find the 2020 a bit closed, certainly more so than how the wine showed in barrel. It will be interesting to see how that wine develops in the coming years. Although Barolo is clearly the star here, Mascarello's entry-level offerings are every bit as compelling to this taster.
00
2019
2027 - 2044
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Maria Teresa Mascarello describes 2020 as a year with a warm, early spring, then good rains in May and June, and a warm summer with no heat spikes. The Nebbiolo harvest took place from October 2 to October 8. Mascarello gave her 2020 55 days on the skins, with submerged cap maceration, the approach she uses for better vintages. At this stage, I find the 2020 a bit closed, certainly more so than how the wine showed in barrel. It will be interesting to see how that wine develops in the coming years. Although Barolo is clearly the star here, Mascarello's entry-level offerings are every bit as compelling to this taster.
00
2019
2027 - 2049
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Maria Teresa Mascarello turned out a gorgeous 2019 Barolo. Harvest started on October 8, a time marked by the cool nights that favor Nebbiolo. Mascarello gave her 2019 a month on the skins but passed on submerged cap maceration, as she felt the skins were a bit thin. As always, both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are spontaneous and done without temperature control. “It’s nice to see a return to more typical alcohol levels for us,” she added. Even after all these years, the Bartolo Mascarello Barolo remains a reference point, but the entire range has been impressive for some time.
00
2018
2028 - 2043
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Maria Teresa Mascarello turned out a gorgeous 2019 Barolo. Harvest started on October 8, a time marked by the cool nights that favor Nebbiolo. Mascarello gave her 2019 a month on the skins but passed on submerged cap maceration, as she felt the skins were a bit thin. As always, both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation are spontaneous and done without temperature control. “It’s nice to see a return to more typical alcohol levels for us,” she added. Even after all these years, the Bartolo Mascarello Barolo remains a reference point, but the entire range has been impressive for some time.
00
2018
2028 - 2043
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Maria Teresa Mascarello turned out a very beautiful 2018 Barolo. Mascarello gave her 2018 about 30 days on the skins, which is a bit shorter than normal, but still opted for submerged cap maceration. Because of the lighter structure of the year, Mascarello did not rack the Barolo at all during the second year of aging. Readers will find a very beautiful and classy Barolo that embodies so much of what makes these wines so alluring.
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2017
2025 - 2042
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Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2017 Barolo is a typical wine for the year. Classically mid-weight in structure, the 2017 is all finesse and class, but it is also decidedly laid back. In fact, alcohol is 0.5% lower in 2017 than 2016. Mascarello gave her wine three weeks on the skins, with no extended fermentation.
"It was a very challenging year," Mascarello relayed. "There was some heat stress in the vines. We had a bit of rain in early September, just as we brought in the last Dolcetto. It was the first rain we had seen in 3-4 months. The soils literally looked like powder as the rain fell. Temperatures started to drop right after that. Harvest was almost a month earlier than 2016 and quite condensed. We picked everything in about 23 days as opposed to the more typical 4-5 weeks."
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2016
2026 - 2056
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2016
2026 - 2056
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Maria Teresa Mascarello’s 2016 Barolo is thrilling. Mascarello gave her 2016 40 days on the skins, which is exceptionally long by the estate’s standards. The 2016 has been magnificent on both occasions I have tasted it so far. I also had a chance to revisit the 2015, which reminds me that producer style always wins out over vintage. Sure, the 2015 is a riper, racier wine, and I suppose it is less classic, but it still very much captures all the signatures that make these artisan wines so special.
00
2015
2025 - 2055
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Maria Teresa Mascarello’s 2016 Barolo is thrilling. Mascarello gave her 2016 40 days on the skins, which is exceptionally long by the estate’s standards. The 2016 has been magnificent on both occasions I have tasted it so far. I also had a chance to revisit the 2015, which reminds me that producer style always wins out over vintage. Sure, the 2015 is a riper, racier wine, and I suppose it is less classic, but it still very much captures all the signatures that make these artisan wines so special.
00
2015
2025 - 2055
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Maria Teresa Mascarello describes 2015 as a year with significant rain during the early part of the growing season, followed by seven weeks of uninterrupted very high temperatures from the last week of June through mid-August. The crop was clean and healthy. As a result, Mascarello gave her 2015 Barolo lots 35-40 days on the skins, with submerged cap maceration following the alcoholic fermentation. But those are really just details. More than anything else, Mascarello turned out a riveting, brilliant Barolo that is very clearly one of the wines of the vintage. Don't miss it!
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2014
2024 - 2049
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Maria Teresa Mascarello is one of the most quiet, unassuming growers in Barolo, yet her wines speak with distinction. The 2014 is another in a series of stellar wines from this benchmark estate. Readers who enjoy classically built wines will adore the 2014 for its freshness, vivacity and mid-weight structure. Sadly, the 2014 will be very hard to find, as production is off by 40%.
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2013
2025 - 2053
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2013
2023 - 2053
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I can't say I am surprised by Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2013 Barolo because the wine was breathtakingly beautiful every time I tasted it from barrel. Mascarello describes 2013 as a vintage from another era, a time when growing seasons were cooler and harvests took place later than they generally do today.
00
2012
2020 - 2037
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I was really looking forward to this dinner at TentaziOni, as my last meal here was truly spectacular. After two packed weeks of tasting through several hundred 2018 Bordeaux en primeur samples, this dinner was a rare moment to simply relax and enjoy delicious food, superb wine and spirited conversation.
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2012
2018 - 2037
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2012
2018 - 2032
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Maria Teresa Mascarello made one of the most delicate, refined Barolos of the vintage in 2012. Mascarello describes 2012 as a coolish vintage. The Nebbiolo harvest took place on October 7 and 8. Like many growers in Barolo, Mascarello had to deal with hail and the lower yields that resulted from careful sorting. Because of the quality of the skins, Mascarello opted for slightly shorter macerations than normal. The Mascarello Barolos often develop into very pretty, Burgundian-inflected wines. The 2012 is already headed in that direction.
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2011
2022 - 2033
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2011
2020 - 2038
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2011
2018 - 2041
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2011
2016 - 2031
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Maria Teresa Mascarello's 2011 Barolo is gorgeous. Best of all, it will provide pretty much immediate gratification, which is great news for readers cellaring some of the more recent, ageworthy vintages.
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2010
2024 - 2050
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2010
2025 - 2050
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.
00
2010
2020 - 2040
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I am not sure I possess the vocabulary to adequately capture just how much Maria Teresa Mascarello has accomplished in the few short years she has been running her family's estate. Often, the best winemakers recognize the need to develop and make small adjustments rather than radical changes. That is exactly what has happened here over the last few years. One need only to look at Mascarello's entry-level wines to understand that the fruit that is coming into the winery today is cleaner, purer and far more articulate than at any point during this benchmark estate's long history. The Dolcetto and Barbera will floor readers this year for their extraordinary purity, grace and suppleness. And what about the 2010 Barolo? Well, it is easily one of the wines of the vintage and quite possibly the finest Barolo ever made here. I say that having had the 1955, 1958, 1982, 1985, 1986, 1989 and 1990 all within the last year or two. The 2010 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo is epic. It's as simple as that.
00
2010
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Over the past several years, Maria Teresa Mascarello has turned the previously austere office of her late father into her own inviting, homey place. Happily, her wines, though a bit friendlier in the early going than those of Bartolo, are still classically made, firmly structured and wonderfully perfumed. Maria Teresa describes 2009 as "generous and open: the season was warm but not excessively hot, and the wines have a better balance than the 2007s. We had our normal snowy winter and good spring rains, so there were better water reserves than in 2007." Mascarello, not surprisingly, is a big fan of 2010. "It's the classic vintage everyone waits for," she told me. "The wines are less fleshy but even fresher than the 2008s, very upright in character." The wines here are aged in old 25-to-50-hectoliter foudres, with the occasional new replacement barrel not touching nebbiolo until it's filled with saltwater for a year and used to make barbera for a vintage or two.
00
2009
2014 - 2029
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
I am not sure I possess the vocabulary to adequately capture just how much Maria Teresa Mascarello has accomplished in the few short years she has been running her family's estate. Often, the best winemakers recognize the need to develop and make small adjustments rather than radical changes. That is exactly what has happened here over the last few years. One need only to look at Mascarello's entry-level wines to understand that the fruit that is coming into the winery today is cleaner, purer and far more articulate than at any point during this benchmark estate's long history. The Dolcetto and Barbera will floor readers this year for their extraordinary purity, grace and suppleness. And what about the 2010 Barolo? Well, it is easily one of the wines of the vintage and quite possibly the finest Barolo ever made here. I say that having had the 1955, 1958, 1982, 1985, 1986, 1989 and 1990 all within the last year or two. The 2010 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo is epic. It's as simple as that.
00
2009
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Over the past several years, Maria Teresa Mascarello has turned the previously austere office of her late father into her own inviting, homey place. Happily, her wines, though a bit friendlier in the early going than those of Bartolo, are still classically made, firmly structured and wonderfully perfumed. Maria Teresa describes 2009 as "generous and open: the season was warm but not excessively hot, and the wines have a better balance than the 2007s. We had our normal snowy winter and good spring rains, so there were better water reserves than in 2007." Mascarello, not surprisingly, is a big fan of 2010. "It's the classic vintage everyone waits for," she told me. "The wines are less fleshy but even fresher than the 2008s, very upright in character." The wines here are aged in old 25-to-50-hectoliter foudres, with the occasional new replacement barrel not touching nebbiolo until it's filled with saltwater for a year and used to make barbera for a vintage or two.
00
2009
2014 - 2029
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Maria Teresa Mascarello cuts a much more laid-back figure than her late father, who was quite outspoken. Other than that, the changes here over the last few years have been quite measured. The old casks have been replaced and there is more emphasis on cleanliness in the cellar and better work in the vineyards, all of which are allowing the wines to unleash their full potential. These wines – the entire range – are distinguished for their exceptional purity and delineation, but the highlight is of course the Barolo, which is still made from a blend of vineyards and aged in cask. It's great to see Maria Teresa Mascarello receiving all the attention she and her wines so richly deserve. Mascarello recently appointed the Rare Wine Company her US importer, which means American consumers should have far better access to these wines than in recent years, and that is great news.
00
2008
2022 - 2048
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00
2008
2018 - 2048
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.
00
2008
2016 - 2048
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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.
00
2008
2018 - 2048
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The finest 2008 Barolos are utterly magnificent, profound wines that represent a new paradigm for Italy’s most famous and collectible red. Simply put, today’s Barolos no longer require decades of cellaring to deliver the fireworks that make Nebbiolo such a singular grape. The late harvest yielded a set of beautifully perfumed, sensual wines that are all about finesse.
I was thrilled to lead this intimate tasting at Pebble Beach Food & Wine in April 2014. For the occasion, I chose eight reference-point Barolos covering all styles - from super-classic to modern. Emily Wines, Shayne Bjornholm and Jay James, a formidable trio of Master Sommeliers, joined me on the panel and were incredibly generous in sharing their views with the audience.
For more information on the wines, readers might enjoy this short video I shot just before the tasting. A comprehensive overview of the vintage is available in 2008 Barolo: The Incredible Lightness of Being. Lastly, our Interactive Barolo Map is the perfect companion through which to explore the vineyards mentioned in the video and the tasting notes that accompany this article.
00
2008
2018 - 2038
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Maria Teresa Mascarello cuts a much more laid-back figure than her late father, who was quite outspoken. Other than that, the changes here over the last few years have been quite measured. The old casks have been replaced and there is more emphasis on cleanliness in the cellar and better work in the vineyards, all of which are allowing the wines to unleash their full potential. These wines – the entire range – are distinguished for their exceptional purity and delineation, but the highlight is of course the Barolo, which is still made from a blend of vineyards and aged in cask. It's great to see Maria Teresa Mascarello receiving all the attention she and her wines so richly deserve. Mascarello recently appointed the Rare Wine Company her US importer, which means American consumers should have far better access to these wines than in recent years, and that is great news.
00
2008
2018 - 2038
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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It's hard to go wrong with anything Maria Teresa Mascarello is making these days. While much of the winery's past fame was built on the sheer charm of Mascarello's father, Bartolo, an icon in Piemonte, the wines weren't always of the same stature. They certainly are today. At the time of my visit, Mascarello had not yet bottled her 2010 Langhe Nebiolo (note the traditional spelling with one 'b') as the malos progressed at snail's pace and the wine was not ready.
00
2008
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"In 2008 we picked the barbera after the nebbiolo due to its high acidity," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. "It was a classic vintage with a normal harvest time: we didn't begin picking until October 12." Mascarello does not consider 2007 to be a classic vintage in the vein of 2008, 2006 and 2004. "It was a warm vintage following a warm winter. Our August weather was more like September, with cool nights. So although the wines have high alcohol, they have fresh fruit and they're not heavy." But she's convinced that the 2008 Barolo will age longer.
00
2007
2017 - 2037
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- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
It's hard to go wrong with anything Maria Teresa Mascarello is making these days. While much of the winery's past fame was built on the sheer charm of Mascarello's father, Bartolo, an icon in Piemonte, the wines weren't always of the same stature. They certainly are today. At the time of my visit, Mascarello had not yet bottled her 2010 Langhe Nebiolo (note the traditional spelling with one 'b') as the malos progressed at snail's pace and the wine was not ready.
00
2007
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
"In 2008 we picked the barbera after the nebbiolo due to its high acidity," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. "It was a classic vintage with a normal harvest time: we didn't begin picking until October 12." Mascarello does not consider 2007 to be a classic vintage in the vein of 2008, 2006 and 2004. "It was a warm vintage following a warm winter. Our August weather was more like September, with cool nights. So although the wines have high alcohol, they have fresh fruit and they're not heavy." But she's convinced that the 2008 Barolo will age longer.
00
2007
2017 - 2032
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello's best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn't always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria Teresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria Teresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father's legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.
00
2006
2022 - 2042
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00
2006
2021 - 2046
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.
00
2006
2021 - 2046
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.
00
2006
2021 - 2036
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello's best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn't always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria Teresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria Teresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father's legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.
00
2006
2016 - 2031
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This is the strongest set of new releases I have tasted at Bartolo Mascarello in some time. I would be hard pressed to name another winery that has made such important strides in improving quality and consistency in recent years. The 2006 Barolo is fantastic, as it often is, but this year I was especially taken with the quality of the entry-level wines. Everything about Mascarello remains rigidly traditional in style, with the sole exception of barrel aging for the Barolo, which is a touch shorter than it used to be.
00
2006
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Maria Teresa Mascarello noted that she started picking Barolo on virtually the same day in 2006 and 2005 (September 23 and 24, respectively) and that in the earlier year she finished two days before the rainy spell arrived at the beginning of October. She noted that the 2005s are "distinguished by their elegance," while the 2006s are stronger than the 2005s and a bit like the 2004s "in intensity, body and structure." The 2005 here has turned out very well, but the 2006 seemed five years younger than that wine. In fact, the bottle of '06 I tasted with Maria Teresa struck me as the finest vintage for this classically styled Barolo in a long time. Maria Teresa added that 2007 was a warm, dry year with cool nights, producing perfumed, fruity nebbiolo and barbera. The Mascarello Barolos spend 25 to 30 days on their skins, including pre- and post-fermentation maceration, and although Maria Teresa would like to keep the temperature from exceeding 30oC, her use of cement tanks means that the temperature is different every year-"very artisanal," as she describes it.
00
2005
2022 - 2045
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2005
2016 - 2031
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The first flight is designed to prepare the palate with a collection of ready to drink vintages across various periods of the estate’s history.
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2005
2016 - 2035
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Bartolo Mascarello passed away in 2005, leaving a huge void. Over the years I was fortunate to spend many hours with Mascarello in his office talking about everything from wine to politics, two of his favorite subjects. Being confined in a wheel chair did not seem to diminish Mascarello's spirits, at least not in front of visitors. The 2005 is the first wine Mascarello's daughter, Maria Teresa made on her own, although she had been taking on a greater role for some time. Since then, she has lifted the family domaine in the upper echelon in Piedmont. The 2005 has been quite strong on both occasions I have had it recently. Harvest was finished by September 23, which is early. As a result, the 2005 started off with austere tannins that are just now beginning to soften.
00
2005
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Bartolo Mascarello was a true icon in Piedmont. Although Mascarello was famous for his wines, he was at least as well known for his outspoken views on everything from winemaking to politics. Mascarello's best wines were legendary, but the quality of what was in the bottle didn't always live up to all of the hype. Against this backdrop, it must have been very difficult for Maria Teresa Mascarello to take over the family winery after her father passed away a few years ago. Not only has Maria Teresa Mascarello suceeded in living up to her father's legacy, she has taken the wines to a new level entirely. The Baroli in particular have been nothing less than stunning here over the last few years. The rebirth of Bartolo Mascarello (the winery) is one of the great, unheralded success stories in Piedmont over the last few years. I urge readers to do whatever they can to taste these great wines. Those who have an interest should make a point to visit the winery and taste from barrel. I also include notes on the 2005 and 2006 Baroli for readers who are curious to see how the wines are developing. The only wine that is disappointing this year is the 2008 Freisa Monrobiolo. The Freisa undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle and the summer of 2009 did not provide consistently warm enough temperatures for that to happen. The Mascarello Freisa is a staunchly traditional wine and often requires an especially forgiving palate, as is the case with the 2008.
00
2005
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Maria Teresa Mascarello noted that she started picking Barolo on virtually the same day in 2006 and 2005 (September 23 and 24, respectively) and that in the earlier year she finished two days before the rainy spell arrived at the beginning of October. She noted that the 2005s are "distinguished by their elegance," while the 2006s are stronger than the 2005s and a bit like the 2004s "in intensity, body and structure." The 2005 here has turned out very well, but the 2006 seemed five years younger than that wine. In fact, the bottle of '06 I tasted with Maria Teresa struck me as the finest vintage for this classically styled Barolo in a long time. Maria Teresa added that 2007 was a warm, dry year with cool nights, producing perfumed, fruity nebbiolo and barbera. The Mascarello Barolos spend 25 to 30 days on their skins, including pre- and post-fermentation maceration, and although Maria Teresa would like to keep the temperature from exceeding 30oC, her use of cement tanks means that the temperature is different every year-"very artisanal," as she describes it.
00
2005
2013 - 2025
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Bartolo Mascarello remains an important domaine for hand-made artisan wines that reflect the best of the traditional style of winemaking in Piedmont. Maria Teresa Mascarello makes her Barolo pretty much just as her father did. The grapes are sourced from various estate-owned vineyards in Barolo and La Morra and co-fermented, after which the wine is aged in cask. Since 1995 Mascarello has bottled her Barolo after two and half years in oak rather than three years or more, as remains the prevailing custom among the region's staunchest traditionalists. Not much else has visibly changed at this tiny, venerable property but today the wines are purer, cleaner and more consistent than they have ever been. The 2006, 2007, 2008 Barolos I tasted from cask were all strikingly beautiful in their transparency and expressiveness of three very different vintages. Mascarello devotees have much to look forward to in coming years. In the meantime, the newly-released 2005 Barolo is among the highlights of the vintage.
00
2004
2022 - 2034
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2004
2016 - 2034
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. This flight of four relatively recent releases provides a tremendous opportunity to see the estate at its current level of excellence.
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2004
2016 - 2039
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2004
2014 - 2029
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“2004 is the first normal vintage I can remember in a while,” says Maria Teresa Mascarello. “We were finished with our Nebbiolo harvest on the 12th of October.”
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2004
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I saw Maria Teresa Mascarello on the evening of September 17; she had just begun harvesting nebbiolo. "We used to pick during the second half of October, but now it's more likely to be the second half of September," she said. "This year, the harvest is basically as early as it was in 2003. " While the shape of the growing season has changed in northwest Italy, practices here remain more or less constant, even though Maria Teresa has been renewing her large barrels on an ongoing basis since 1999 ("but still always Slovenian oak"). I tasted 2004 and 2003 Barolo on my latest visit, and I'm happy to report that both are strong efforts for their respective vintages.
00
2003
2016 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The first flight is designed to prepare the palate with a collection of ready to drink vintages across various periods of the estate’s history.
00
2003
2014 - 2023
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Bartolo Mascarello's 2003 Barolo is terrific. The scorching heat took with it 30% of the production, which among other things, means the estate did not bottle magnums. Macerations were shorter than normal and the 2003 was bottled after two years in oak, which is less time in barrel than virtually all other traditionally minded estates, but an aging regime that has been the norm here for some time.
00
2003
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I saw Maria Teresa Mascarello on the evening of September 17; she had just begun harvesting nebbiolo. "We used to pick during the second half of October, but now it's more likely to be the second half of September," she said. "This year, the harvest is basically as early as it was in 2003. " While the shape of the growing season has changed in northwest Italy, practices here remain more or less constant, even though Maria Teresa has been renewing her large barrels on an ongoing basis since 1999 ("but still always Slovenian oak"). I tasted 2004 and 2003 Barolo on my latest visit, and I'm happy to report that both are strong efforts for their respective vintages.
00
2003
2013 - 2019
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Maria-Thérésa Mascarello has just completed a new tasting room which is strikingly modern in design, especially when compared to the rest of th is tiny cellar, which is as traditional as they come. Her 2003 Barolo is an unqualified success and subsequent vintages, led by the 2004, offer much potential.
00
2001
2022 - 2032
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00
2001
2016 - 2031
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Our second flight looks at four vintages in the late 1990s and early 2000s that are also in their prime drinking windows, with the possible exception of the 1999, which is still quite young.
00
2001
2013 - 2021
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2001
2013 - 2026
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Maria Teresa Mascarello assures me that she will absolutely continue to make her wines in the style of her father and grandfather, which is to say traditional in every sense. “The idea of a perfect wine doesn't exist. I am trying to make an honest wine, one that reflects all of the qualities of our territory, both its strengths as well as its flaws,” says Mascarello. “There are only a few sites that can really give expressive wines. Our ancestors used to look at the hills in the winter, and where the snow melted first, they planted Nebbiolo. Today Nebbiolo is planted everywhere. For example, the vineyard where we have our Dolcetto has a good exposure, but it was never considered a first-rate exposure, so it was always planted with Dolcetto....today it is all Nebbiolo, only we have kept Dolcetto in that vineyard.” The estate produces one Barolo, which made from a blend of some of the best plots in the region. The vineyards are typically harvested in the following order: San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Torriglione, Rue, and the grapes are vinified together. The wines are fermented in glass lined concrete for 15-20 days, without the aid of temperature control or selected yeasts. The wine then ages in medium and large casks for 3 years before being released in the fall of the fourth year after the vintage. Mascarello's wines remain some of the most age-worthy wines of the region. They are perhaps a bit less clean and perfect than the modern wines we have become accustomed to, but these highly idiosyncratic wines deserve attention from those who seek to understand what traditional Barolo is all about. That said, these are delicate wines that are made very naturally and there can be quite a bit of bottle variation.
00
2001
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This estate might as well have taken the entire 2002 growing season off, as ultimately they made only a bit of dolcetto and a bit of nebbiolo but no barbera or Barolo. "It was almost a lost year," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. Of the three vintages I tasted, I liked the 2001 best; it was showing well after the recent bottling. The '99, which was a bit stunned by the bottling when I tasted it two years ago, still retains a dry edge and is not yet showing the richness of the best examples from this vintage. According to Maria Teresa, nothing has changed here, except for the fact that the family did a light eggwhite clarification in 2000 and 2001 for the first time.
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2000
2016 - 2021
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The first flight is designed to prepare the palate with a collection of ready to drink vintages across various periods of the estate’s history.
00
2000
2013 - 2025
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After many years I have finally concluded that Bartolo Mascarello's 2000 Barolo will always remain a mystery to me.
00
2000
2013 - 2020
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After many years I have finally concluded that Bartolo Mascarello's 2000 Barolo will always remain a mystery to me.
00
2000
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This estate might as well have taken the entire 2002 growing season off, as ultimately they made only a bit of dolcetto and a bit of nebbiolo but no barbera or Barolo. "It was almost a lost year," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. Of the three vintages I tasted, I liked the 2001 best; it was showing well after the recent bottling. The '99, which was a bit stunned by the bottling when I tasted it two years ago, still retains a dry edge and is not yet showing the richness of the best examples from this vintage. According to Maria Teresa, nothing has changed here, except for the fact that the family did a light eggwhite clarification in 2000 and 2001 for the first time.
00
2000
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With each passing vintage, the list of techniques the self-styled "Last of the Mohicans" does not use grows longer: "No concentrators, no commercial yeasts, no rotofermenters, no crus, no wines with fantasy names, no barriques." Bartolo Mascarello considers the estate's '98 to be a classically styled Barolo. Daughter Maria Teresa describes '97 as elegant and fine, but without the great structure of '98, which she says is in the style of '96 and '90. "Both '98 and '99 were big crops," Maria Teresa added, but 2000 was smaller due to a difficult flowering. It was the '98 that stood out on my visit in September, with the '99 a bit stunned by the August bottling. At the time of my visit, Maria Teresa was lamenting the hailstorm of 2002. "We did twice as much work as usual in the vines during the summer, but there's no harvest to speak of." Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY)
00
1999
2022 - 2032
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00
1999
2016 - 2036
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Our second flight looks at four vintages in the late 1990s and early 2000s that are also in their prime drinking windows, with the possible exception of the 1999, which is still quite young.
00
1999
2019 - 2039
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This recent private dinner at Scalini Fedeli hosted for a small group of wine lovers provided a fabulous opportunity to delve into the wines of four reference point Barolo estates and enjoy the cuisine of one of New York City’s most highly regarded Italian restaurants.
00
1999
2014 - 2029
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Even today, nearly a decade after his passing, Bartolo Mascarello remains one of the icons of Barolo as much for his outspoken views as for his wines themselves. Long before traditionally made Barolos came back into fashion, collectors and appassionati flocked to this small winery on Via Roma, in the center of Barolo. Mascarello's 1999 Barolo has aged brilliantly.
00
1999
2013 - 2013
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“Oddly enough over the past few years the vintages which have received most public acclaim have been 1997 and 2000. By all means these are great vintages, but for the most part we producers prefer more classic vintages such as 2001, 1999, 1996 and 1998,” says Maria Teresa Mascarello. “The 1999s were ignored because we had good success with our 1998s, and then the hype started over the 2000s and no one wanted to hear about 1999. To me 1999 is a superior vintage, even if the wines have required some time to show their potential. I like the finesse and elegance I find in the wines. My 1999 is only now beginning to express all of its qualities and I think it will have a long life.”
00
1999
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This estate might as well have taken the entire 2002 growing season off, as ultimately they made only a bit of dolcetto and a bit of nebbiolo but no barbera or Barolo. "It was almost a lost year," said Maria Teresa Mascarello. Of the three vintages I tasted, I liked the 2001 best; it was showing well after the recent bottling. The '99, which was a bit stunned by the bottling when I tasted it two years ago, still retains a dry edge and is not yet showing the richness of the best examples from this vintage. According to Maria Teresa, nothing has changed here, except for the fact that the family did a light eggwhite clarification in 2000 and 2001 for the first time.
00
1999
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With each passing vintage, the list of techniques the self-styled "Last of the Mohicans" does not use grows longer: "No concentrators, no commercial yeasts, no rotofermenters, no crus, no wines with fantasy names, no barriques." Bartolo Mascarello considers the estate's '98 to be a classically styled Barolo. Daughter Maria Teresa describes '97 as elegant and fine, but without the great structure of '98, which she says is in the style of '96 and '90. "Both '98 and '99 were big crops," Maria Teresa added, but 2000 was smaller due to a difficult flowering. It was the '98 that stood out on my visit in September, with the '99 a bit stunned by the August bottling. At the time of my visit, Maria Teresa was lamenting the hailstorm of 2002. "We did twice as much work as usual in the vines during the summer, but there's no harvest to speak of." Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY)
00
1998
2016 - 2021
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Our second flight looks at four vintages in the late 1990s and early 2000s that are also in their prime drinking windows, with the possible exception of the 1999, which is still quite young.
00
1998
2013 - 2019
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1998 has always been an interesting vintage for Barolo. Caught between the more hyped 1996 and 1997 on one end, and 2000 and 2001 on the other, the 1998s have often been overlooked. It also didn't help that the wines were first released during a period global economic malaise. While 1998 is not a truly iconic, legendary vintage, these Barolos are great choices for medium-term drinking as a number of wines are entering their early maturity, making them great choices for readers who are cellaring wines from Piedmont's sturdier vintages such as 1996, 1999 and 2001.
Piedmont experienced mostly warm weather in 1998 with spells of drought, though nowhere near the extremes seen in 1997. The wines have always been perfumed and accessible, with an attractive softness to the fruit. Even better, the vast majority of the wines have never shut down to the extent that wines from cooler vintages often do. The 1998s are extremely consistent across the board, and that level of outstanding quality may very well end up being the vintage's strongest attribute. As is typically the case, the Barolos of La Morra and Barolo are the most forward, while those of Serralunga are the freshest. Most of these wines were from my cellar, purchased and cellared since release, although I tasted a few of the wines a second time with the producers.
00
1998
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With each passing vintage, the list of techniques the self-styled "Last of the Mohicans" does not use grows longer: "No concentrators, no commercial yeasts, no rotofermenters, no crus, no wines with fantasy names, no barriques." Bartolo Mascarello considers the estate's '98 to be a classically styled Barolo. Daughter Maria Teresa describes '97 as elegant and fine, but without the great structure of '98, which she says is in the style of '96 and '90. "Both '98 and '99 were big crops," Maria Teresa added, but 2000 was smaller due to a difficult flowering. It was the '98 that stood out on my visit in September, with the '99 a bit stunned by the August bottling. At the time of my visit, Maria Teresa was lamenting the hailstorm of 2002. "We did twice as much work as usual in the vines during the summer, but there's no harvest to speak of." Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY)
00
1998
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Ultra-traditionalist Bartolo Mascarello produces 18,000 to 20,000 bottles of Barolo in "a good typical year like 1998," but offered just 12,000 from '96, a vintage that began with a problematic flowering. His sole Barolo bottling is a classic blend of fruit from multiple sites. (On an earlier visit, Mascarello told me: "I don't make wine with fantasy names. I don't make crus I don't make wine in barriques My wines don't have perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. I'm the last of the Mohicans.") Mascarello prunes short, and has green harvested for many years. "Now it the mode," he notes. Mascarello still vinifies his Barolos in concrete tanks without benefit of temperature control.
00
1997
2016 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Our second flight looks at four vintages in the late 1990s and early 2000s that are also in their prime drinking windows, with the possible exception of the 1999, which is still quite young.
00
1997
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Ultra-traditionalist Bartolo Mascarello produces 18,000 to 20,000 bottles of Barolo in "a good typical year like 1998," but offered just 12,000 from '96, a vintage that began with a problematic flowering. His sole Barolo bottling is a classic blend of fruit from multiple sites. (On an earlier visit, Mascarello told me: "I don't make wine with fantasy names. I don't make crus I don't make wine in barriques My wines don't have perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. I'm the last of the Mohicans.") Mascarello prunes short, and has green harvested for many years. "Now it the mode," he notes. Mascarello still vinifies his Barolos in concrete tanks without benefit of temperature control.
00
1997
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Mascarello describes 1996 as a classic vintage. 1997, he says, was characterized by a very early harvest and therefore much less typical. Mascarello is able to pick his Barolo parcels in 10 days, and in '97 he finished by the end of September. 1995, he adds, offers finesse but is "less important"; he rates it about equal in quality to 1993. Both '95 and '96 featured short crops due to hail and problems during the flowering. Mascarello humid old cellar was almost empty at the time of my visit, as he had just bottled the '97 light wines and the '95 Barolo, the latter almost a year ahead of his normal schedule so that he would have a Barolo to sell next March. (Mascarello sold off his '94 last spring because he felt it did not have enough body.) x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D Mascarello, who describes himself as "the last of the Mohicans," is one of the few remaining strict traditionalists: he uses no barriques and offers no cru bottlings (his single Barolo is a blend of his holdings, with old vines in Cannubi and a large parcel in Rocche di Torriglione in the Annunziata district of La Morra the most important components. The wines remain on their skins for about 25 days, but sometimes longer if ambient temperatures are low. x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D On my recent visit, I had the chance to taste Mascarello great '64 from magnum. This reddish orange wine offered a fabulous nose of plum, red currant, dried rose, underbrush and Graves like leather and hot stones; lovely penetrating sweetness and exotic fruit notes in the middle palate; and terrific follow through, with fairly soft tannins. It rated a solid 95, and was still full of life.
00
1996
2022 - 2037
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00
1996
2016 - 2036
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A visit with Bartolo Mascarello always lasted several hours. Conversations in his office touched on many subjects, but politics and the state of Barolo were always central to the discussion. By the time I met Mascarello he was already confined to a wheel chair, but I never saw his spirits diminished in any way. The gleam in his eyes conveyed an element of boyish mischief that I don't think he ever lost, even as his health deteriorated in subsequent years. Times were very different when the 1996 Barolo was released. Mascarello was embroiled in his polemics with the more modernist Barolo producers who received most of the critical acclaim during that era. It was also a much simpler time. An appointment was easy to come by, I rarely saw anyone else at the winery, and there was no limit to the wines visitors could buy. Mascarello's 1996 is a super-classic, dark Barolo that will thrill readers lucky enough to own it or find it. From magnum, it is even more special.
00
1996
2016 - 2036
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The fairly tale duo of 1989 and 1990 form the core of our third flight, with 1988 and 1996 as bookends. Once again, there are plenty of surprises. The 1988, 1990 and 1996 are brilliant, while the 1989 is less impressive than it has been in the past.
00
1996
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Ultra-traditionalist Bartolo Mascarello produces 18,000 to 20,000 bottles of Barolo in "a good typical year like 1998," but offered just 12,000 from '96, a vintage that began with a problematic flowering. His sole Barolo bottling is a classic blend of fruit from multiple sites. (On an earlier visit, Mascarello told me: "I don't make wine with fantasy names. I don't make crus I don't make wine in barriques My wines don't have perfume of vanilla and Limousin oak. I'm the last of the Mohicans.") Mascarello prunes short, and has green harvested for many years. "Now it the mode," he notes. Mascarello still vinifies his Barolos in concrete tanks without benefit of temperature control.
00
1996
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Mascarello describes 1996 as a classic vintage. 1997, he says, was characterized by a very early harvest and therefore much less typical. Mascarello is able to pick his Barolo parcels in 10 days, and in '97 he finished by the end of September. 1995, he adds, offers finesse but is "less important"; he rates it about equal in quality to 1993. Both '95 and '96 featured short crops due to hail and problems during the flowering. Mascarello humid old cellar was almost empty at the time of my visit, as he had just bottled the '97 light wines and the '95 Barolo, the latter almost a year ahead of his normal schedule so that he would have a Barolo to sell next March. (Mascarello sold off his '94 last spring because he felt it did not have enough body.) x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D Mascarello, who describes himself as "the last of the Mohicans," is one of the few remaining strict traditionalists: he uses no barriques and offers no cru bottlings (his single Barolo is a blend of his holdings, with old vines in Cannubi and a large parcel in Rocche di Torriglione in the Annunziata district of La Morra the most important components. The wines remain on their skins for about 25 days, but sometimes longer if ambient temperatures are low. x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D On my recent visit, I had the chance to taste Mascarello great '64 from magnum. This reddish orange wine offered a fabulous nose of plum, red currant, dried rose, underbrush and Graves like leather and hot stones; lovely penetrating sweetness and exotic fruit notes in the middle palate; and terrific follow through, with fairly soft tannins. It rated a solid 95, and was still full of life.
00
1995
2016 - 2035
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The first flight is designed to prepare the palate with a collection of ready to drink vintages across various periods of the estate’s history.
00
1995
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Mascarello describes 1996 as a classic vintage. 1997, he says, was characterized by a very early harvest and therefore much less typical. Mascarello is able to pick his Barolo parcels in 10 days, and in '97 he finished by the end of September. 1995, he adds, offers finesse but is "less important"; he rates it about equal in quality to 1993. Both '95 and '96 featured short crops due to hail and problems during the flowering. Mascarello humid old cellar was almost empty at the time of my visit, as he had just bottled the '97 light wines and the '95 Barolo, the latter almost a year ahead of his normal schedule so that he would have a Barolo to sell next March. (Mascarello sold off his '94 last spring because he felt it did not have enough body.) x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D Mascarello, who describes himself as "the last of the Mohicans," is one of the few remaining strict traditionalists: he uses no barriques and offers no cru bottlings (his single Barolo is a blend of his holdings, with old vines in Cannubi and a large parcel in Rocche di Torriglione in the Annunziata district of La Morra the most important components. The wines remain on their skins for about 25 days, but sometimes longer if ambient temperatures are low. x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D On my recent visit, I had the chance to taste Mascarello great '64 from magnum. This reddish orange wine offered a fabulous nose of plum, red currant, dried rose, underbrush and Graves like leather and hot stones; lovely penetrating sweetness and exotic fruit notes in the middle palate; and terrific follow through, with fairly soft tannins. It rated a solid 95, and was still full of life.
00
1993
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Mascarello describes 1996 as a classic vintage. 1997, he says, was characterized by a very early harvest and therefore much less typical. Mascarello is able to pick his Barolo parcels in 10 days, and in '97 he finished by the end of September. 1995, he adds, offers finesse but is "less important"; he rates it about equal in quality to 1993. Both '95 and '96 featured short crops due to hail and problems during the flowering. Mascarello humid old cellar was almost empty at the time of my visit, as he had just bottled the '97 light wines and the '95 Barolo, the latter almost a year ahead of his normal schedule so that he would have a Barolo to sell next March. (Mascarello sold off his '94 last spring because he felt it did not have enough body.) x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D Mascarello, who describes himself as "the last of the Mohicans," is one of the few remaining strict traditionalists: he uses no barriques and offers no cru bottlings (his single Barolo is a blend of his holdings, with old vines in Cannubi and a large parcel in Rocche di Torriglione in the Annunziata district of La Morra the most important components. The wines remain on their skins for about 25 days, but sometimes longer if ambient temperatures are low. x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D x000D On my recent visit, I had the chance to taste Mascarello great '64 from magnum. This reddish orange wine offered a fabulous nose of plum, red currant, dried rose, underbrush and Graves like leather and hot stones; lovely penetrating sweetness and exotic fruit notes in the middle palate; and terrific follow through, with fairly soft tannins. It rated a solid 95, and was still full of life.
00
1990
2022 - 2032
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00
1990
2016 - 2031
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The fairly tale duo of 1989 and 1990 form the core of our third flight, with 1988 and 1996 as bookends. Once again, there are plenty of surprises. The 1988, 1990 and 1996 are brilliant, while the 1989 is less impressive than it has been in the past.
00
1990
2013 - 2025
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Sadly, Bartolo Mascarello passed away in 2005. Mascarello was one of the last staunch traditionalist producers in Piedmont, “the last of the Mohicans” as he liked to say. The wines were indeed very traditional, at times positively and at others less so. Mascarello's Barolo was and remains one of the few wines still made from a combination of vineyards rather than a single-vineyard wine. The fruit, from holdings in San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Torriglione and Ruè, was co-fermented in cement and then racked into large, neutral oak, where the wines aged for roughly three and a half years before being bottled. Although the wines sometimes show elements of rusticity that trouble even the most forgiving of palates, when the wines are on, they are sensational. At times powerful when young, the wines almost always age into soft, Burgundian examples of Barolo. Mascarello's 1989 and 1990 Barolos, both of which I tasted from magnum, are still infants, but the same wines in standard bottles are equally magnificent.
00
1990
2006 - 2006
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The following wines were tasted at a class on Barolo and Barbaresco I held at Crush Wine and Spirits in mid-town Manhattan in February 2006. The evening provided a great opportunity to check in on a few new releases as well as taste some of the region's benchmark wines from nearly all of the most important vintages back to 1961.
00
1989
2022 - 2034
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00
1989
2016 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The fairly tale duo of 1989 and 1990 form the core of our third flight, with 1988 and 1996 as bookends. Once again, there are plenty of surprises. The 1988, 1990 and 1996 are brilliant, while the 1989 is less impressive than it has been in the past.
00
1989
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This wine was tasted during collector Bruce Fingeret's birthday party, July 2010
00
1989
2013 - 2030
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Sadly, Bartolo Mascarello passed away in 2005. Mascarello was one of the last staunch traditionalist producers in Piedmont, “the last of the Mohicans” as he liked to say. The wines were indeed very traditional, at times positively and at others less so. Mascarello's Barolo was and remains one of the few wines still made from a combination of vineyards rather than a single-vineyard wine. The fruit, from holdings in San Lorenzo, Cannubi, Torriglione and Ruè, was co-fermented in cement and then racked into large, neutral oak, where the wines aged for roughly three and a half years before being bottled. Although the wines sometimes show elements of rusticity that trouble even the most forgiving of palates, when the wines are on, they are sensational. At times powerful when young, the wines almost always age into soft, Burgundian examples of Barolo. Mascarello's 1989 and 1990 Barolos, both of which I tasted from magnum, are still infants, but the same wines in standard bottles are equally magnificent.
00
1989
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This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.
00
1988
2022 - 2032
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00
1988
2016 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. The fairly tale duo of 1989 and 1990 form the core of our third flight, with 1988 and 1996 as bookends. Once again, there are plenty of surprises. The 1988, 1990 and 1996 are brilliant, while the 1989 is less impressive than it has been in the past.
00
1986
2016 - 2026
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Two pristine magnums, both purchased directly from the winery, round out a magnificent evening.
00
1986
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
00
1986
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This wine was tasted among Piedmont Icons at Del Posto in Novermber 2013.
00
1986
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This wine was tasted during a charity dinner at Daniel in New York City, November 2007.
00
1985
2022 - 2032
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00
1985
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This wine was tasted during La Festa del Barolo's Gala Dinner in April 2013.
"The spirit of sharing and camaraderie the world’s best wines inspire was in evidence at La Festa del Barolo, where I was fortunate to enjoy a range of emotionally moving, transcendental wines." Antonio Galloni
00
1985
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This magical evening continued into a delicious dinner blessed with a stunning array of wines. The menu, prepared by Grissini Restaurant and served al fresco, was simple, tasty and very nicely done, as always.
00
1985
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Tasted over lunch at Del Posto Ristorante in New York City, December 2007.
00
1985
2005 - 2005
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The subject of evaluating and rating vintages is one of the favorite topics of discussion among Piedmont lovers, so the opportunity to taste sixteen of the best 1985 Barolos and Barbarescos with a group of hardcore New York Nebbiolo fans made for a truly special evening.
Many insiders describe the 1985 vintage as a turning point for the wines. According to Luciano Sandrone “1985 was in many ways the first ‘modern,' hot vintage. The Barolos were uncharacteristically open from the start and have remained accessible.” Giacosa enologist Dante Scaglione says “1985 was the first vintage in which we had wines with very high alcohol. In fact, we wouldn't see such alcohol levels in our wines again until 2003. I view 1985 as a vintage that is ready to drink and one which will not be especially long-lived going forward.” Roberto Conterno had a slightly different take commenting that “I wouldn't necessarily say our wines were accessible from the beginning, however today the 1985s are very expressive and it is a great vintage to drink today.”
Because of the hot growing season and early appeal of the vintage, some have predicted that the wines would not age well. For the most part, I was amazed at how well these Barolos showed. Many of the wines displayed lively color, with rich, sweet fruit, and enough underlying structure to provide balance. While the wines as a group are mature, any suggestion that they are falling apart is simply not borne out by this tasting. How long will the wines last? That is a hard question to answer, since provenance is such a huge variable, but I think it is safe to say that for many of these wines well-stored bottles have another decade of life ahead, and perhaps more. These 1985s offer great drinking today in a more accessible, softer style than either 1982 or 1989, the other two great vintages from the 1980s.
Unfortunately we also had a few bad bottles, which I suppose is to be expected in a tasting like this, although the percentage of corked/cooked bottles was higher than we would have liked (around 25%). When these wines were first released fifteen years ago there simply wasn't the kind of attention to temperature-controlled shipping that we have today and several wines appeared to have been damaged by excess heat at some point in their lives. The biggest lesson here for consumers is that there is no substitute for buying these wines on release and cellaring them. Doing so is the only reliable way to minimize the possibility of some very expensive disappointments at a later date.
The wines were double-decanted and served blind in flights of four. The identity of the wines was revealed only after all of the wines had been tasted and discussed. Tasting these wines blind with a group of passionate and knowledgeable Barolo fans was a great learning experience, but also a humbling one. Mature Barolos are wines of extraordinary complexity and can fool even the most seasoned palates, as we would be reminded throughout the evening.
After the formal tasting was concluded, we enjoyed a delicious dinner, and finished off what was left of these spectacular wines. We also tasted Prunotto's 1985 Barolo Bussia, which was fresh, youthful, and delicious, although it didn't quite reach the level of the best wines on this evening. A great bottle of Bruno Giacosa's 1986 Barolo Riserva Falletto followed, and it was one of the best wines of the night, prompting some of the tasters to wonder if this producer may have been more successful in 1986 than 1985. The evening closed with the outrageous 1983 Recioto from Giuseppe Quintarelli. While I don't have enough experience with this wine to put it into the proper context, I will say that it was breathtaking for its complexity, balance, and sheer appeal. At age 22 it appeared to be magically youthful, and my sense is that this is a wine whose aging potential is to be measured in decades rather than years.
00
1982
2022 - 2032
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00
1982
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This wine was tasted at La Festa del Barolo 2011 at Del Posto, New York, in March 2011
00
1980
2006 - 2006
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For our January meeting my local tasting group gathered to survey the wines of Francesco Rinaldi and Luciano Sandrone, two producers who represent different schools of thought when it comes to Barolo. By the time the evening was over however, we had also opened terrific bottles from Bruno Giacosa, Bartolo Mascarello, and Giacomo Conterno. Not a bad way to spend a cold winter evening. On this night I was fortunate to host the group at my house. For the occasion I prepared a simple meal to accompany the wines, including tagliolini al ragu (featuring pasta directly from Alba), osso buco, and a selection of cheeses. As always, a great time was had by all.
We started with a selection of wines from Francesco Rinaldi, a producer whose wines I have only tasted sporadically over the years. As much as I love traditional Barolo, the house style here is on the austere side, and frankly a bit much for me. Some might say the wines simply need time to reach maturity. That may be the case, but even the wines from 1958 and 1964 retained the estate's characteristic unyielding, monolithic personality and it is not likely that any amount of further bottle age will alter their fundamental qualities. That said, several of my fellow tasters found the wines captivating and more enjoyable than I did. Regardless, this was a great opportunity to taste this estate's wines over a span of years including many historic vintages such as 1958, 1964, 1971, 1982, and 1985. The bottles were all pristine and the wines have held up extremely well.
Our next grouping consisted of two wines served blind. Giacosa's 1986 Barbaresco Santo Stefano and Bartolo Mascarello's 1980 Barolo show the heights Nebbiolo can reach in the hands of a serious producer even in lesser vintages. Both wines were outstanding and while clearly not at the level of each respective producer's finest wines, they offer a compelling mature-Nebbiolo drinking experience today. We then moved into a flight of Luciano Sandrone's great Barolos from the 1980s. Over the years Sandrone has been the producer who has most successfully bridged the gap between traditional and modern styles in Barolo. Tasting these wines together was a revelation, allowing us to track this producer's evolution. The only thing missing was a bottle of the mythical 1990 to cap things off, but as the song goes, you can't always get what you want.
After several hours of tasting and debating we arrived at our final flight. The theme? Monfortino old and new. We were fortunate to taste an impeccable bottle of the 1978 Monfortino, which is on my short list as one of the greatest Barolos ever produced. Tasting this wine from a perfect bottle is always an unforgettable experience. With it we paired the 1998, the most recent release. It was a great way to finish off the dinner.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park in New York City during November of 2012.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted at the Second Annual Truffle Charity Dinner in December 2008.
00
1978
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This wine was tasted as a part of Festa di Barolo 2008.
00
1978
2006 - 2008
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For most observers 1978 occupies a hallowed place among the legendary vintages in Piedmont. From a purely historical perspective 1978 is also a fascinating vintage to study because it is the last important vintage in which the wines were largely made with traditional methods, both in the vineyards and in the cellar. These wines pre-date the arrival of the more modern style of winemaking which in the 1980s would begin to change the way many estates vinified and aged their wines. A recent dinner in New York with a group of die-hard Nebbiolo fanatics provided a great opportunity to re-visit many of the vintage's benchmark wines. As often happens, extraordinary vintages are the result of unpredictable and unexpected climactic conditions. “1978 was a very strange year,” says Mauro Mascarello. “The spring was quite damp, which resulted in a delayed and irregular flowering. The plants were carrying only about one-half of their normal amount of fruit. We basically had no summer, as the weather remained cool, rainy and foggy all the way through August. It really looked like it would be a terrible vintage. Then, all of a sudden, on the first of September the weather turned, and we had uninterrupted heat all the way through to October, with our harvest taking place in the second half of October.” The hot weather fully ripened the little fruit that remained and the naturally low yields gave some of the most concentrated, memorable wines ever made These 1978s show the extraordinary longevity that the best Barolos and Barbarescos offer. I was amazed at how youthful the wines were, an opinion shared by most, if not all, of the other tasters. Many wines displayed a lively, healthy color and appeared to be still full of life. Critics of traditionally made wines would say that the 1978s are an example of how these wines are never really ready to drink, and certainly the wines have required a great deal of patience. However, after having tasted more than twenty wines from this vintage over the last few months I can only conclude that the 1978s have proven to be well worth the effort of waiting. Well-stored bottles will provide the emotionally moving drinking experience that only a few of the world's great wines can offer. The wines were decanted several hours prior to serving and were tasted non-blind. While researching this article I had the opportunity to taste several other 1978s and also I include notes on those wines.
00
1971
2018 - 2038
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The 1971 Barolo from Cantina Mascarello is a relic from a time when Piedmont was a very different place than it is today, in many more ways than one. For starters, before the 1980s, reaching full maturity with Nebbiolo was a challenge, so riper vintages like 1971 were welcome. Warmer sites, where grapes reached maturity earlier, were favored, as cooler sites were more susceptible to the fall rains. Barolo was a wine whose popularity was limited only to a relatively small number of passionate consumers and collectors.
Things are totally different today. Climate change has brought with it warmer, drier growing seasons. Rain during fall is rarely an issue. Growers worry about vintages that are excessively hot and dry, and not the opposite, as their parents and grandparents did. Today’s growing conditions have resulted in a reassessment of what the best sites are and will be for Nebbiolo. And of course, Barolo is one of the most highly sought wines in the world. A wine-lover visiting Cantina Mascarello in the 1970s and 1980s could have bought pretty much all the wine they wanted. Now….well, things are completely different, let’s just leave it at that.
00
1971
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This wine was tasted as a part of Festa di Barolo 2008.
00
1971
2006 - 2006
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An evening at Cru is always a memorable experience, and this night was no exception as we were treated to an amazing dinner featuring great food, wine, and most important of all, the company of close friends. Readers who love older wines owe it to themselves to pay a visit to Cru and to explore its breathtaking wine list, which offers a rich treasure trove of selections. I think it is fair to say that every major producer of note is well represented in an astonishing range of vintages. On this occasion the focus was on Bruno Giacosa's Red Label Riservas from the mid-1980s although we did have a chance to taste some other great wines as well. The four of us had no problem polishing off these fine bottles…quite an achievement especially given that my wife does not drink much.
Service at Cru was impeccable. Wine Director Robert Bohr and his staff did a great job serving the wines throughout the course of the dinner. The almost-fanatical attention to the details of wine service, including the temperature of the wines, decanting, stemware and the labeling of multiple glasses on the table showed the highest level of professionalism and made for a very enjoyable evening. Between the four of us I think we tried most, if not all of the dishes on Chef Shea Gallante's tasting menu. Highlights included the Toro tuna, white polenta soup, confit rabbit, Maine lobster and a lovely perfectly cooked sliced squab breast. We started with the outrageous 1996 Dom Pérignon and then moved into the following wines.
Editor's note: Cru has closed since this article was first published.
00
1971
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A recent gathering with friends provided the perfect occasion to open a few special bottles of our favorite wines. The theme was aged, traditionally made Barolos. The setting was a beautiful country home set high in the Appenine mountains, on the border between Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany. The estate was gorgeous and peaceful, the only sounds to be heard were the barks of the playful dogs and the gentle trot of the horse. The weather was chilly so we lit the fireplace. First we tasted the wines, then we enjoyed them alongside a traditional Emilian menu of tortellini in brodo and bollito misto. While it is fun to taste wines like this side-by-side, doing so inevitably leads to comparisons of the wines. These Barolos are such idiosyncratic, highly individual wines, that they are probably best enjoyed on their own, without the presence of other wines.
00
1964
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This wine was tasted over dinner in November of 2007.
00
1961
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This wine was tasted as a part of wine collector Bruce Fingeret's 50th Birthday Party, July 2008.
00
1958
2016 - 2016
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This wine was tasted as part of a vertical tasting held in London in April 2016. The wines were arranged in five thematic flights. Two pristine magnums, both purchased directly from the winery, round out a magnificent evening.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted during the Festa del Barolo at the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York City, February 2015.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park during the Charity Dinner of La Festa Del Barolo 2013.
00
1958
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This wine was tasted as a part of wine collector Bruce Fingeret's 50th Birthday Party, July 2008.
00
1955
2018 - 2028
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What a thrill it is to taste Cantina Mascarello’s 1955 Barolo from a perfectly stored and cared for bottiglione, a traditional Piedmontese large format that is no longer used.
Years ago, I bought two 1.9 Liter bottiglioni of the 1955 Barolo. When these bottiglioni were initially made, Barolo was not the highly coveted wine it is today. A hectare of Nebbiolo for Barolo cost about the same as a hectare of Dolcetto. Only a handful of consumers actually drank Barolo and even fewer had use for large formats. As interest started to grow for Barolo in the 1990s, most of the focus was on standard bottles. In some cellars, the larger formats were basically forgotten about for decades.
I served one of the 1955 bottiglioni at our Rare Wine Charity Dinner, which we hosted at Eleven Madison Park as part of the 2012 Festa del Barolo, and donated the second bottiglione to our charity auction. Never in a thousand years did I think I would see that second bottle again. But, there it was….
00
1955
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This wine was tasted over dinner at Eleven Madison Park during the Charity Dinner of La Festa Del Barolo 2013.
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