2017 Ausone
France
Saint Emilion
Bordeaux
Red
55% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot
00
2027 - 2057
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2024 - 2050
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Pauline and Alain Vauthier greeted me on a blissfully sunny morning when the view from Ausone’s courtyard is worth one hundred points on its own. Pauline Vauthier was in a chipper mood, despite the fact that in 2017 she oversees a truncated portfolio thanks to Mon. Jacques Frost. “Moulin Saint Georges was 20% touched by the frost although the fruit from these vines were completely sold off,” she explained. “This year there is no 2017 Simard and Haut-Simard because they were totally affected by the frost. The other vineyards were not touched at all.” I asked Pauline Vauthier how Alain and herself reacted when the frost bit. “On the day of the frost we used candles and a fan that Alain had bought in 1992 after the last frost. These were O.K. for increasing the temperature but in Simard it was -5° Celsius, so it was no use. The fans are the most important and most efficient.” I asked if signs of damage were immediately visible. “No. It was not until noon that we began to see the vines go brown and then between two and four o’clock you could really see it. One week later it looked like in winter. In the winery we did the same vinification and extraction as usual, the same pigeage with some délestage.” Ausone has a good track record in terms of avoiding frost damage, one of few to have produced a crop in a frost devastated year is the 1956, as readers of my recent article will have read, so 2017 was not going to pose a real threat. It has a sumptuous and Ausone, satin-like in texture with an almost audacious finish given the growing season. It is a pity that quantities are so small and let’s face it, prices very expensive, though I would guide Vinous readers to the 2017 La Clotte. This gem of a vineyard tucked on the outskirts of Saint-Émilion village has great potential and I understand Pauline Vauthier’s enthusiasm for the 2017.
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