1999 Ausone
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2018 - 2040
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"With the quantity of fruit down 25% and the amount of work in the vines up 20% to 30%, the 2001 vintage at Ausone was one-and-a-half times more expensive to make than the 2000," said Alain Vauthier, perhaps explaining why he was hesitant to cut the price for his 2001. Vauthier made just 28 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 following a strict green harvest; the grapes came in with the same potential alcohol as in the previous year but with a bit more acidity. Still, Vauthier says, the 2000 has more vinosity; the malolactic fermentations went quickly and there's more density of material to buffer the tannins. The 2001, in contrast, was characterized by a very long secondary fermentation (all in barriques), and Vauthier feels that the wine was less fruity early on than the 2000 and more disjointed when I sampled it at the beginning of April.
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Ausone great hillside vineyard came through the summer drought of 2000 with flying colors, and has produced a classic wine for the new millennium. "The maturity of the fruit was at least partly blocked in many flatter and sandier sites in the St. Emilion area," noted proprietor Alain Vauthier, "but we have no problems with drought here. The vines on our hillside have deep roots, and the chalk on the upper part of the hill always retains enough humidity. In fact, extremely dry years like '59, '76 and '90 have been especially good for Ausone." Grape sugars in the merlot reached as high as 13.5% in 2000, with some cabernet franc coming in over 14%, the highest ever for Ausone, according to Vauthier. And polyphenol readings were also at record levels. "The climate is definitely changing," Vauthier concluded.
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Alain Vauthier used osmose inverse at Ausone for the first time in '99 (previously he had only concentrated his musts via saignee), eliminating nine hectoliters of water from two cuves. He described the results as miraculous. "The water taken out had no taste," he claimed, "so there is a true concentration of the fruit. Of course you can't do this with bad grapes or unhealthy skins." The yield at Ausone in '99 was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, actually a bit lower than in the previous year. The '99, a blend of 55% cabernet franc and 45% merlot, is one of the two or three top wines of the appellation, but the '98 is even stronger.
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