1998 Ausone
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Ausone great hillside vineyard came through the summer drought of 2000 with flying colors, and has produced a classic wine for the new millennium. "The maturity of the fruit was at least partly blocked in many flatter and sandier sites in the St. Emilion area," noted proprietor Alain Vauthier, "but we have no problems with drought here. The vines on our hillside have deep roots, and the chalk on the upper part of the hill always retains enough humidity. In fact, extremely dry years like '59, '76 and '90 have been especially good for Ausone." Grape sugars in the merlot reached as high as 13.5% in 2000, with some cabernet franc coming in over 14%, the highest ever for Ausone, according to Vauthier. And polyphenol readings were also at record levels. "The climate is definitely changing," Vauthier concluded.
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Alain Vauthier used osmose inverse at Ausone for the first time in '99 (previously he had only concentrated his musts via saignee), eliminating nine hectoliters of water from two cuves. He described the results as miraculous. "The water taken out had no taste," he claimed, "so there is a true concentration of the fruit. Of course you can't do this with bad grapes or unhealthy skins." The yield at Ausone in '99 was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, actually a bit lower than in the previous year. The '99, a blend of 55% cabernet franc and 45% merlot, is one of the two or three top wines of the appellation, but the '98 is even stronger.
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Alain Vauthier's potentially great '98 is one of the most complex wines of the vintage, from one of Bordeaux's greatest sites. Ausone harvested between September 28 and October 5, in "a series of small bursts," according to Vauthier, and even the cabernet franc here came in with potential alcohol in the high 12.8% range. The extraction is relatively short here, and in '98 Vauthier carried out less frequent, gentler remontages "The more I taste, the more I think people here are overworking their wines," said Vauthier.
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