1997 Ausone
France
Saint Emilion
Bordeaux
Red
65% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot (2024 vintage)
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1997
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Alain Vauthier used osmose inverse at Ausone for the first time in '99 (previously he had only concentrated his musts via saignee), eliminating nine hectoliters of water from two cuves. He described the results as miraculous. "The water taken out had no taste," he claimed, "so there is a true concentration of the fruit. Of course you can't do this with bad grapes or unhealthy skins." The yield at Ausone in '99 was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, actually a bit lower than in the previous year. The '99, a blend of 55% cabernet franc and 45% merlot, is one of the two or three top wines of the appellation, but the '98 is even stronger.
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2024
2029 - 2055
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2024
2034 - 2054
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2023
2028 - 2060
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2023
2033 - 2073
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2022
2030 - 2065
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2022
2032 - 2072
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2022
2032 - 2062
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This is an intriguing set of wines from the Vauthier family. I have to say, this year I was especially taken with Moulin Saint-Georges. Haut-Simard is also pretty distinctive, with Cabernet Franc very much in the foreground. The top three wines – La Clotte, Chapelle d’Ausone and Ausone – are fascinating. Alcohols are on the high side (15%) and yet the wines have low pHs and terrific overall balance. I can’t wait to taste them from bottle.
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2022
2030 - 2065
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2021
2026 - 2050
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2021
2036 - 2061
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2021
2036 - 2061
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This year's tasting at Ausone consisted of just three wines: La Clotte, Chapelle d'Ausone and Ausone. The Vauthier family endured a brutal year in which frost and mildew wiped out 80-90% of the production at Fonbel, Simard, Haut-Simard and St. Georges. Those wines will be presented only as finished, bottled wines. Yields at La Clotte and Ausone were down much less, on the order of 20% or so. “We farm biodynamically out of a sense of conviction, because we think it is the right thing to do,” Pauline Vauthier told me. “But losing a large part of the harvest is very difficult. If we have another year like 2021, we might seriously reconsider some of our choices.”
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2021
2026 - 2050
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2020
2030 - 2070
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2020
2026 - 2055
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2020
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2020
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2019
2025 - 2060
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2019
2026 - 2066
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2019
2034 - 2069
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2018
2028 - 2058
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2018
2025 - 2050
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2018
2022 - 2048
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2018
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Alain and Pauline Vauthier produced a gorgeous set of wines in 2018. Naturally, the two wines from Ausone are likely to garner most of the attention, but all of the wines in this range merit serious consideration. Yields were variable. Some properties, like Fonbel, saw losses from mildew of around 30%, while others, including Ausone, were unaffected. As for the 2018 Ausone it is a magical wine.
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2017
2027 - 2057
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2017
2024 - 2050
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2017
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2017
2024 - 2050
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Pauline and Alain Vauthier greeted me on a blissfully sunny morning when the view from Ausone’s courtyard is worth one hundred points on its own. Pauline Vauthier was in a chipper mood, despite the fact that in 2017 she oversees a truncated portfolio thanks to Mon. Jacques Frost. “Moulin Saint Georges was 20% touched by the frost although the fruit from these vines were completely sold off,” she explained. “This year there is no 2017 Simard and Haut-Simard because they were totally affected by the frost. The other vineyards were not touched at all.” I asked Pauline Vauthier how Alain and herself reacted when the frost bit. “On the day of the frost we used candles and a fan that Alain had bought in 1992 after the last frost. These were O.K. for increasing the temperature but in Simard it was -5° Celsius, so it was no use. The fans are the most important and most efficient.” I asked if signs of damage were immediately visible. “No. It was not until noon that we began to see the vines go brown and then between two and four o’clock you could really see it. One week later it looked like in winter. In the winery we did the same vinification and extraction as usual, the same pigeage with some délestage.” Ausone has a good track record in terms of avoiding frost damage, one of few to have produced a crop in a frost devastated year is the 1956, as readers of my recent article will have read, so 2017 was not going to pose a real threat. It has a sumptuous and Ausone, satin-like in texture with an almost audacious finish given the growing season. It is a pity that quantities are so small and let’s face it, prices very expensive, though I would guide Vinous readers to the 2017 La Clotte. This gem of a vineyard tucked on the outskirts of Saint-Émilion village has great potential and I understand Pauline Vauthier’s enthusiasm for the 2017.
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2016
2026 - 2070
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2016
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2016
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2016
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2015
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2015
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2015
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2015
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Alain Vauthier, with his daughter Pauline and the team led by cellarmaster Philippe Baillarguet, made some of the most remarkable wines of the vintage across all of the Vauthier family's properties. This tasting, which was towards the end of my two weeks in Bordeaux, after I had tasted most of the wines, was truly remarkable. From top to bottom, the Vauthier family's 2015s are not to be missed. At the high end, well, the wines ascend into the realm of the truly breathtaking.
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2014
2024 - 2055
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2014
2025 - 2045
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2014
2020 - 2055
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2014
2020 - 2039
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These are two very pretty wines from Ausone. In 2014, all of the fruit was harvested in early October, starting with the Merlots on the 4th and finishing with the Cabernet Francs on the 11th, although a tiny bit of Cabernet for the Chapelle came in on the 15th. The wines spent a total of four-and-a-half weeks on the skins, with delestage and pigeage (done by hand) once a day during the early part of the fermentations. Readers will note a high %age of Cabernet Franc in this year's Ausone, a reflection of the more favorable growing conditions for the Francs and a greater emphasis on that grape at the estate.
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2014
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I was quite taken with the wines I tasted at Ausone with proprietor Pauline Vauthier. All of the fruit was harvested in early October, starting with the Merlots on the 4th and finishing with the Cabernet Francs on the 11, although a tiny bit of Cabernet for the Chapelle came in on the 15th. The wines spent a total of four and a half weeks on the skins, with delestage and pigeage (done by hand) once a day during the early part of the fermentations. Readers will note a high percentage of Cabernet Franc in this year's Ausone, a reflection of the more favorable growing conditions for the Francs and a greater emphasis on that grape at the estate.
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2013
2023 - 2034
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2013
2018 - 2033
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2013
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2013
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Pauline Vauthier approached the 2013s with caution and the desire to not force things that the vintage simply did not have. Fermentations were gentle. The wines spent about a week less on the skins than is normal. From top to bottom, the Vauthier family's wines are impressive. I tasted the entire range twice over the course of a week, which was fascinating and educational. The harvest started on October 2 with the Merlot and finished on October 8 with the Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields came in around 22 hectoliters per hectare.
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2012
2020 - 2042
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2012
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2011
2022 - 2033
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2011
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2011
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2011
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2010
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2010
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2010
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2009
2021 - 2050
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2009
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2009
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2008
2024 - 2048
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2008
2020 - 2050
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There was no easing into the job and frankly I would not want it any other way on my first day. Wines tasted in the morning at an annual ten-year on Bordeaux tasting on one side of the Atlantic, written up on the flight over to New York with my mouth still coated in tannin and completed on the other side of the Atlantic...just a day in the life, so that readers get an idea how things are going to roll with the 2008 Bordeaux.
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2008
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2007
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2007
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Alain Vauthier was quite candid about the approach he has taken to raising his wine to an even higher level in recent years. "Since '95 I have essentially cut production of Ausone in half and quadrupled the price." There will be barely 16,000 bottles of the 2007. In contrast to many of his colleagues, Vauthier told me that he was optimistic about the 2007 harvest up until mid-August, largely due to the fact that his team had spent 50% more time in the vines than normal during the summer. "But then we received 60 millimeters of rain here between August 19 and 26." The crop was saved by a splendid September and very good early weather in early October. Still, said Vauthier, the index of total polyphenols and the grape sugars are lower in 2007 than they were in 2006 or 2005. Incidentally, the 2005 Ausone was the single greatest bottle I sampled in Bordeaux this spring, though I doubt I'll be around when this monumental wine reaches its apogee.
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2006
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2006
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Alain Vauthier reported yields in the low 33-hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2006, in large part because he carried out three separate green harvests beginning at the end of June. He picked the merlot between September 21 and 30 and brought in the cabernet franc on September 30 and October 1. Following a selection in the vines, he also uses a vibrating sorting table after the fruit has been destemmed to eliminate any remaining bits of stems. Vauthier now owns two-hectoliter tanks that can quickly chill the must to 6oC. Incidentally, Vauthier declined to show the 2005, which was being fined and was in an awkward stage. This wine was a knockout last spring.
00
2005
2022 - 2055
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2005
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Alain Vauthier was quite candid about the approach he has taken to raising his wine to an even higher level in recent years. "Since '95 I have essentially cut production of Ausone in half and quadrupled the price." There will be barely 16,000 bottles of the 2007. In contrast to many of his colleagues, Vauthier told me that he was optimistic about the 2007 harvest up until mid-August, largely due to the fact that his team had spent 50% more time in the vines than normal during the summer. "But then we received 60 millimeters of rain here between August 19 and 26." The crop was saved by a splendid September and very good early weather in early October. Still, said Vauthier, the index of total polyphenols and the grape sugars are lower in 2007 than they were in 2006 or 2005. Incidentally, the 2005 Ausone was the single greatest bottle I sampled in Bordeaux this spring, though I doubt I'll be around when this monumental wine reaches its apogee.
00
2005
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The hugely endowed 2005 Ausone is likely to be nearly immortal, but it may also require 15 to 20 years of cellaring before it becomes approachable. (So if you buy this-and it's going to be pricey!-be prepared to bequeath it to your descendants.) Alain Vauthier brought in a bit of slightly shriveled merlot on September 17, then harvested the bulk of his merlot between September 22 and 26; the cabernet franc was picked on October 1 and October 6. The wine is outsized in all of its parts, with higher IPT and alcohol than either 2003 or 2000 (in 2005, the cabernet franc came in with 14.5% potential alcohol, noted Vauthier, who said that the blend is 14.3% now but will finish at around 14%). As Vauthier has added no fertilizers for a long time, the pH of Ausone is always on the low side: 3.62 in 2005. Interestingly, the merlot had a lower pH than the cabernet franc in 2005-a testament to the great ripeness of the later-picked franc. There has been no better wine made in Bordeaux over the past seven or eight years than Ausone.
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2004
2024 - 2034
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2004
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Alain Vauthier reported yields in the low 33-hectoliters-per-hectare range in 2006, in large part because he carried out three separate green harvests beginning at the end of June. He picked the merlot between September 21 and 30 and brought in the cabernet franc on September 30 and October 1. Following a selection in the vines, he also uses a vibrating sorting table after the fruit has been destemmed to eliminate any remaining bits of stems. Vauthier now owns two-hectoliter tanks that can quickly chill the must to 6oC. Incidentally, Vauthier declined to show the 2005, which was being fined and was in an awkward stage. This wine was a knockout last spring.
00
2004
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The hugely endowed 2005 Ausone is likely to be nearly immortal, but it may also require 15 to 20 years of cellaring before it becomes approachable. (So if you buy this-and it's going to be pricey!-be prepared to bequeath it to your descendants.) Alain Vauthier brought in a bit of slightly shriveled merlot on September 17, then harvested the bulk of his merlot between September 22 and 26; the cabernet franc was picked on October 1 and October 6. The wine is outsized in all of its parts, with higher IPT and alcohol than either 2003 or 2000 (in 2005, the cabernet franc came in with 14.5% potential alcohol, noted Vauthier, who said that the blend is 14.3% now but will finish at around 14%). As Vauthier has added no fertilizers for a long time, the pH of Ausone is always on the low side: 3.62 in 2005. Interestingly, the merlot had a lower pH than the cabernet franc in 2005-a testament to the great ripeness of the later-picked franc. There has been no better wine made in Bordeaux over the past seven or eight years than Ausone.
00
2004
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Alain Vauthier is now turning out a wine-of-the-vintage candidate virtually every year, and the 2004 will be no exception. Vauthier brought in his merlot on October 4 and 5, then harvested the cabernet franc between October 12 and 14, just before some serious rain fell. One of the keys to the high quality of 2004 here is the yield of 32 hectoliters per hectare. Following a 10% saignee but no chaptalization, the young 2004 is 13.7% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7 and slightly lower acidity than the estate's supernal 2003. I note that my scores for the past three vintages of Ausone are nearly identical to those for Latour; these two properties have in common great terroir and tireless attention to detail in the vineyards and in the winery.
00
2003
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The hugely endowed 2005 Ausone is likely to be nearly immortal, but it may also require 15 to 20 years of cellaring before it becomes approachable. (So if you buy this-and it's going to be pricey!-be prepared to bequeath it to your descendants.) Alain Vauthier brought in a bit of slightly shriveled merlot on September 17, then harvested the bulk of his merlot between September 22 and 26; the cabernet franc was picked on October 1 and October 6. The wine is outsized in all of its parts, with higher IPT and alcohol than either 2003 or 2000 (in 2005, the cabernet franc came in with 14.5% potential alcohol, noted Vauthier, who said that the blend is 14.3% now but will finish at around 14%). As Vauthier has added no fertilizers for a long time, the pH of Ausone is always on the low side: 3.62 in 2005. Interestingly, the merlot had a lower pH than the cabernet franc in 2005-a testament to the great ripeness of the later-picked franc. There has been no better wine made in Bordeaux over the past seven or eight years than Ausone.
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2003
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Alain Vauthier is now turning out a wine-of-the-vintage candidate virtually every year, and the 2004 will be no exception. Vauthier brought in his merlot on October 4 and 5, then harvested the cabernet franc between October 12 and 14, just before some serious rain fell. One of the keys to the high quality of 2004 here is the yield of 32 hectoliters per hectare. Following a 10% saignee but no chaptalization, the young 2004 is 13.7% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7 and slightly lower acidity than the estate's supernal 2003. I note that my scores for the past three vintages of Ausone are nearly identical to those for Latour; these two properties have in common great terroir and tireless attention to detail in the vineyards and in the winery.
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2003
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Alain Vauthier's 2003 may well turn out to be the single right-bank wine that's at the quality level of the best Medoc wines of this extreme vintage. Vauthier began his harvest on September 15, then brought in his superb cabernet franc during the last week of the month. He told me that the blend today is close to 14% alcohol, and that the cabernet franc was even riper than the merlot. The yield here was just under 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the IPT was 77, vs. 72 for the 2000. Unlike many of his colleagues, who sought to protect their grapes from the broiling sun in 2003, Vauthier carried out his normal leaf-pulling at veraison He felt that it was important to get the grapes used to the sun, "like someone who starts his summer at the beach in April." And he also did his normal green harvesting, to eliminate grapes that were green or grilled. Vauthier considers 2003 to be a great vintage, with outstanding longer-term potential. In comparison, he told me, 2002 is a fruitier style of Ausone, while the 2001 is austere and classic.
00
2002
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Alain Vauthier is now turning out a wine-of-the-vintage candidate virtually every year, and the 2004 will be no exception. Vauthier brought in his merlot on October 4 and 5, then harvested the cabernet franc between October 12 and 14, just before some serious rain fell. One of the keys to the high quality of 2004 here is the yield of 32 hectoliters per hectare. Following a 10% saignee but no chaptalization, the young 2004 is 13.7% alcohol, with a pH of 3.7 and slightly lower acidity than the estate's supernal 2003. I note that my scores for the past three vintages of Ausone are nearly identical to those for Latour; these two properties have in common great terroir and tireless attention to detail in the vineyards and in the winery.
00
2002
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Alain Vauthier's 2003 may well turn out to be the single right-bank wine that's at the quality level of the best Medoc wines of this extreme vintage. Vauthier began his harvest on September 15, then brought in his superb cabernet franc during the last week of the month. He told me that the blend today is close to 14% alcohol, and that the cabernet franc was even riper than the merlot. The yield here was just under 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the IPT was 77, vs. 72 for the 2000. Unlike many of his colleagues, who sought to protect their grapes from the broiling sun in 2003, Vauthier carried out his normal leaf-pulling at veraison He felt that it was important to get the grapes used to the sun, "like someone who starts his summer at the beach in April." And he also did his normal green harvesting, to eliminate grapes that were green or grilled. Vauthier considers 2003 to be a great vintage, with outstanding longer-term potential. In comparison, he told me, 2002 is a fruitier style of Ausone, while the 2001 is austere and classic.
00
2002
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It's tempting to say that perfectionist proprietor Alain Vauthier has crafted wine-of-the-vintage candidates in every vintage since 1998, and the 2002 is remarkably strong for the right bank. Vauthier currently rates his young 2002 behind the 2001 but notes that he harvested extremely rich cabernet franc with potential alcohol ranging as high as 14%. The wine will be a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot. There was very little coulure here in '02 and a normal crop level, according to Vauthier.
00
2001
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Alain Vauthier's 2003 may well turn out to be the single right-bank wine that's at the quality level of the best Medoc wines of this extreme vintage. Vauthier began his harvest on September 15, then brought in his superb cabernet franc during the last week of the month. He told me that the blend today is close to 14% alcohol, and that the cabernet franc was even riper than the merlot. The yield here was just under 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the IPT was 77, vs. 72 for the 2000. Unlike many of his colleagues, who sought to protect their grapes from the broiling sun in 2003, Vauthier carried out his normal leaf-pulling at veraison He felt that it was important to get the grapes used to the sun, "like someone who starts his summer at the beach in April." And he also did his normal green harvesting, to eliminate grapes that were green or grilled. Vauthier considers 2003 to be a great vintage, with outstanding longer-term potential. In comparison, he told me, 2002 is a fruitier style of Ausone, while the 2001 is austere and classic.
00
2001
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It's tempting to say that perfectionist proprietor Alain Vauthier has crafted wine-of-the-vintage candidates in every vintage since 1998, and the 2002 is remarkably strong for the right bank. Vauthier currently rates his young 2002 behind the 2001 but notes that he harvested extremely rich cabernet franc with potential alcohol ranging as high as 14%. The wine will be a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot. There was very little coulure here in '02 and a normal crop level, according to Vauthier.
00
2001
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"With the quantity of fruit down 25% and the amount of work in the vines up 20% to 30%, the 2001 vintage at Ausone was one-and-a-half times more expensive to make than the 2000," said Alain Vauthier, perhaps explaining why he was hesitant to cut the price for his 2001. Vauthier made just 28 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 following a strict green harvest; the grapes came in with the same potential alcohol as in the previous year but with a bit more acidity. Still, Vauthier says, the 2000 has more vinosity; the malolactic fermentations went quickly and there's more density of material to buffer the tannins. The 2001, in contrast, was characterized by a very long secondary fermentation (all in barriques), and Vauthier feels that the wine was less fruity early on than the 2000 and more disjointed when I sampled it at the beginning of April.
00
2000
2018 - 2060
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00
2000
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It's tempting to say that perfectionist proprietor Alain Vauthier has crafted wine-of-the-vintage candidates in every vintage since 1998, and the 2002 is remarkably strong for the right bank. Vauthier currently rates his young 2002 behind the 2001 but notes that he harvested extremely rich cabernet franc with potential alcohol ranging as high as 14%. The wine will be a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot. There was very little coulure here in '02 and a normal crop level, according to Vauthier.
00
2000
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"With the quantity of fruit down 25% and the amount of work in the vines up 20% to 30%, the 2001 vintage at Ausone was one-and-a-half times more expensive to make than the 2000," said Alain Vauthier, perhaps explaining why he was hesitant to cut the price for his 2001. Vauthier made just 28 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 following a strict green harvest; the grapes came in with the same potential alcohol as in the previous year but with a bit more acidity. Still, Vauthier says, the 2000 has more vinosity; the malolactic fermentations went quickly and there's more density of material to buffer the tannins. The 2001, in contrast, was characterized by a very long secondary fermentation (all in barriques), and Vauthier feels that the wine was less fruity early on than the 2000 and more disjointed when I sampled it at the beginning of April.
00
2000
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Ausone great hillside vineyard came through the summer drought of 2000 with flying colors, and has produced a classic wine for the new millennium. "The maturity of the fruit was at least partly blocked in many flatter and sandier sites in the St. Emilion area," noted proprietor Alain Vauthier, "but we have no problems with drought here. The vines on our hillside have deep roots, and the chalk on the upper part of the hill always retains enough humidity. In fact, extremely dry years like '59, '76 and '90 have been especially good for Ausone." Grape sugars in the merlot reached as high as 13.5% in 2000, with some cabernet franc coming in over 14%, the highest ever for Ausone, according to Vauthier. And polyphenol readings were also at record levels. "The climate is definitely changing," Vauthier concluded.
00
1999
2018 - 2040
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00
1999
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"With the quantity of fruit down 25% and the amount of work in the vines up 20% to 30%, the 2001 vintage at Ausone was one-and-a-half times more expensive to make than the 2000," said Alain Vauthier, perhaps explaining why he was hesitant to cut the price for his 2001. Vauthier made just 28 hectoliters per hectare in 2001 following a strict green harvest; the grapes came in with the same potential alcohol as in the previous year but with a bit more acidity. Still, Vauthier says, the 2000 has more vinosity; the malolactic fermentations went quickly and there's more density of material to buffer the tannins. The 2001, in contrast, was characterized by a very long secondary fermentation (all in barriques), and Vauthier feels that the wine was less fruity early on than the 2000 and more disjointed when I sampled it at the beginning of April.
00
1999
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Ausone great hillside vineyard came through the summer drought of 2000 with flying colors, and has produced a classic wine for the new millennium. "The maturity of the fruit was at least partly blocked in many flatter and sandier sites in the St. Emilion area," noted proprietor Alain Vauthier, "but we have no problems with drought here. The vines on our hillside have deep roots, and the chalk on the upper part of the hill always retains enough humidity. In fact, extremely dry years like '59, '76 and '90 have been especially good for Ausone." Grape sugars in the merlot reached as high as 13.5% in 2000, with some cabernet franc coming in over 14%, the highest ever for Ausone, according to Vauthier. And polyphenol readings were also at record levels. "The climate is definitely changing," Vauthier concluded.
00
1999
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Alain Vauthier used osmose inverse at Ausone for the first time in '99 (previously he had only concentrated his musts via saignee), eliminating nine hectoliters of water from two cuves. He described the results as miraculous. "The water taken out had no taste," he claimed, "so there is a true concentration of the fruit. Of course you can't do this with bad grapes or unhealthy skins." The yield at Ausone in '99 was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, actually a bit lower than in the previous year. The '99, a blend of 55% cabernet franc and 45% merlot, is one of the two or three top wines of the appellation, but the '98 is even stronger.
00
1998
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00
1998
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Ausone great hillside vineyard came through the summer drought of 2000 with flying colors, and has produced a classic wine for the new millennium. "The maturity of the fruit was at least partly blocked in many flatter and sandier sites in the St. Emilion area," noted proprietor Alain Vauthier, "but we have no problems with drought here. The vines on our hillside have deep roots, and the chalk on the upper part of the hill always retains enough humidity. In fact, extremely dry years like '59, '76 and '90 have been especially good for Ausone." Grape sugars in the merlot reached as high as 13.5% in 2000, with some cabernet franc coming in over 14%, the highest ever for Ausone, according to Vauthier. And polyphenol readings were also at record levels. "The climate is definitely changing," Vauthier concluded.
00
1998
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Alain Vauthier used osmose inverse at Ausone for the first time in '99 (previously he had only concentrated his musts via saignee), eliminating nine hectoliters of water from two cuves. He described the results as miraculous. "The water taken out had no taste," he claimed, "so there is a true concentration of the fruit. Of course you can't do this with bad grapes or unhealthy skins." The yield at Ausone in '99 was just 34 hectoliters per hectare, actually a bit lower than in the previous year. The '99, a blend of 55% cabernet franc and 45% merlot, is one of the two or three top wines of the appellation, but the '98 is even stronger.
00
1998
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Alain Vauthier's potentially great '98 is one of the most complex wines of the vintage, from one of Bordeaux's greatest sites. Ausone harvested between September 28 and October 5, in "a series of small bursts," according to Vauthier, and even the cabernet franc here came in with potential alcohol in the high 12.8% range. The extraction is relatively short here, and in '98 Vauthier carried out less frequent, gentler remontages "The more I taste, the more I think people here are overworking their wines," said Vauthier.
00
1997
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Alain Vauthier's potentially great '98 is one of the most complex wines of the vintage, from one of Bordeaux's greatest sites. Ausone harvested between September 28 and October 5, in "a series of small bursts," according to Vauthier, and even the cabernet franc here came in with potential alcohol in the high 12.8% range. The extraction is relatively short here, and in '98 Vauthier carried out less frequent, gentler remontages "The more I taste, the more I think people here are overworking their wines," said Vauthier.
00
1997
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Since taking over full control here with the '95 vintage, the dynamic Alain Vauthier has thoroughly revitalized this wine, to the point where traditional fans of Ausone claim to be having trouble recognizing the recent results. But with the '95 now safely in bottle, and the '96 and '97 among the early standouts of their respective vintages, it is clear to this taster that Vauthier will be vindicated. He has cut yields, moved to later harvesting of riper fruit, introduced a five-to-six day cold maceration in the first cuve (using carbonic gas to prevent the fermentation from starting), and switched to malolactic fermentation in barriques In 1997, he did four passes through the vines to eliminate less-ripe fruit, and eventually harvested just 34 hectoliters per hectare of fruit that needed barely a half-degree of chaptalization. Incidentally, Vauthier will complete a new fermentation and barrel-aging facility in time for the 1998 harvest, having concluded that this estate extensive limestone caves are better suited for impressing tourists than for raising young wine. Though viewed for decades as a fabulous natural resource, these cold, humid caves are poorly ventilated and plagued with aromas of mushroom and mold. No doubt some of the charges of sloppy elevage leveled at Ausone through the years have been due to the insidious effects of this environment, though it may also be true that some Ausone "purists" enjoy these aromas and flavors.
00
1996
2018 - 2038
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00
1996
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Alain Vauthier's potentially great '98 is one of the most complex wines of the vintage, from one of Bordeaux's greatest sites. Ausone harvested between September 28 and October 5, in "a series of small bursts," according to Vauthier, and even the cabernet franc here came in with potential alcohol in the high 12.8% range. The extraction is relatively short here, and in '98 Vauthier carried out less frequent, gentler remontages "The more I taste, the more I think people here are overworking their wines," said Vauthier.
00
1996
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Since taking over full control here with the '95 vintage, the dynamic Alain Vauthier has thoroughly revitalized this wine, to the point where traditional fans of Ausone claim to be having trouble recognizing the recent results. But with the '95 now safely in bottle, and the '96 and '97 among the early standouts of their respective vintages, it is clear to this taster that Vauthier will be vindicated. He has cut yields, moved to later harvesting of riper fruit, introduced a five-to-six day cold maceration in the first cuve (using carbonic gas to prevent the fermentation from starting), and switched to malolactic fermentation in barriques In 1997, he did four passes through the vines to eliminate less-ripe fruit, and eventually harvested just 34 hectoliters per hectare of fruit that needed barely a half-degree of chaptalization. Incidentally, Vauthier will complete a new fermentation and barrel-aging facility in time for the 1998 harvest, having concluded that this estate extensive limestone caves are better suited for impressing tourists than for raising young wine. Though viewed for decades as a fabulous natural resource, these cold, humid caves are poorly ventilated and plagued with aromas of mushroom and mold. No doubt some of the charges of sloppy elevage leveled at Ausone through the years have been due to the insidious effects of this environment, though it may also be true that some Ausone "purists" enjoy these aromas and flavors.
00
1995
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
- By Author Name on Month Date, Year
Since taking over full control here with the '95 vintage, the dynamic Alain Vauthier has thoroughly revitalized this wine, to the point where traditional fans of Ausone claim to be having trouble recognizing the recent results. But with the '95 now safely in bottle, and the '96 and '97 among the early standouts of their respective vintages, it is clear to this taster that Vauthier will be vindicated. He has cut yields, moved to later harvesting of riper fruit, introduced a five-to-six day cold maceration in the first cuve (using carbonic gas to prevent the fermentation from starting), and switched to malolactic fermentation in barriques In 1997, he did four passes through the vines to eliminate less-ripe fruit, and eventually harvested just 34 hectoliters per hectare of fruit that needed barely a half-degree of chaptalization. Incidentally, Vauthier will complete a new fermentation and barrel-aging facility in time for the 1998 harvest, having concluded that this estate extensive limestone caves are better suited for impressing tourists than for raising young wine. Though viewed for decades as a fabulous natural resource, these cold, humid caves are poorly ventilated and plagued with aromas of mushroom and mold. No doubt some of the charges of sloppy elevage leveled at Ausone through the years have been due to the insidious effects of this environment, though it may also be true that some Ausone "purists" enjoy these aromas and flavors.
00
1995
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You'll be hearing a lot more about the changes afoot at Ausone—both in terms of ownership and style of wine. Alain Vauthier expects that a long-running legal battle will finally be resolved within the next year, giving his family full control of this fabled property, which is currently half owned by the Dubois-Challons. Vauthier has already made radical changes in harvesting strategy and vinification; the result, beginning with the '95, will be an Ausone that will attract many new fans at the risk of alienating some of its hard-core partisans. The grapes are now picked later, for added ripeness, and extraction has been increased. Vauthier has moved to malo in harriques with a vengeance: two-thirds of the '95 crop went through its secondary fermentation in new barrels. The result is an atypically fleshy, ripe, very deep wine that purists may think of as Ausone on steroids. Only time will tell if the wine's minerally limestone terroir expresses itself fully. Pascal Delbeck, who now has little to do with the vinification of this wine, expresses decidedly mixed feelings about Ausone's new direction. Many people taste early today, he told me, and they like pleasing wines. More and more estates are picking later simply in response to these early tasters—and to a couple of influential wine writers. Today's pH for Ausone is around 3.8, Delbeck adds, while it was more like 3.55 15 years ago. Maybe what we need to do, concludes Delbeck half-seriously, is to make two wines each year: a "show reserve" and a classic ager. For my own part, I found the '95 Ausone something of a shock on first tasting it, but it steadily grew in my memory over the ensuing days.
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1992
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1990
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1990
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1990
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1989
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1988
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1986
2018 - 2036
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1985
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1983
2018 - 2025
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1983
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1982
2018 - 2032
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1982
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1979
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1978
2018 - 2028
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1976
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1975
2018 - 2024
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1974
2018 - 2020
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1973
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1972
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1971
2018 - 2030
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1970
2024 - 2034
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Thanks to my connected friend, it had been a splendid evening at Bouchon Racine. I can now tick it off my list, though I would love to return. It is a restaurant that creates its own world, almost hermetically sealed off from the rest of London, so you soon forget you’re not actually in a riverside Lyon bistro but above a pub in central London.
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1970
2023 - 2030
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1970
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1969
2018 - 2022
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1967
2018 - 2028
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1966
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1964
2018 - 2035
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1962
2023 - 2027
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1962
2018 - 2025
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
2025 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
2019 - 2029
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1961
2018 - 2031
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1960
2018 - 2019
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1959
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1959
2018 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1956
2018 - 2019
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1955
2018 - 2035
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1953
2018 - 2025
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1950
2018 - 2024
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1949
2018 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1947
2018 - 2025
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1945
2018 - 2024
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1943
2018 - 2019
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1942
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1937
2018 - 2020
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1929
2018 - 2030
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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1912
2018 - 2021
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Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Integer vitae aliquam odio. Aliquam purus diam, tempor et consectetur vitae, eleifend ac quam. Proin nec mauris ac odio iaculis semper. Integer posuere pharetra aliquet. Nullam tincidunt sagittis est in maximus. Donec sem orci, vulputate ac quam non, consectetur fermentum diam. In dignissim magna id orci dignissim convallis. Integer sit amet placerat dui. Aliquam pharetra ornare nulla at vulputate. Sed dictum, mi eget fringilla lacinia, nisl tortor condimentum mi, vitae ultrices quam diam ac neque. Donec hendrerit vulputate felis, fringilla varius massa.
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