2008 Pinot Noir Isabelle
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2013 - 2018
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Jim Clendenen mused about the bittersweet experience of watching chardonnay and pinot noir tastes swinging back to where he has always been. "It's funny to see how elegance and balance have become the new buzzwords when that's the only model I've ever had," he explained. "It makes me feel like a real old-timer." But of course he is an old-timer for the Central Coast, having started up ABC in 1982. That's before some of today's up-and-coming winemakers were even born. And he hasn't even changed his hair style! Clendenen's wines "aren't about fireworks and showing off," he told me, adding that "people who have to have flavor up in their face have never understood them and probably never will." The choices made leading up to and during the harvest are the most critical of all his annual decisions, he told me, asserting that "there's no question that the choice of when you pick is the key if you want wines that really express a sense of place and have real balance. If you screw up the pick, then you're going to have to start monkeying around in the cellar with watering back, acid adjustments, or whatever, to compensate for what you missed in the vineyard, which completely defeats the goal of making a wine of character."
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