2009 Pinot Noir Comptche Ridge
United States
Mendocino County, North Coast, California
Sonoma
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2013 - 2017
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This line-up from Anthill Farms is very impressive. The Pinots in particular are distinctive and well deserving of serious consideration.
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Web Marquez, David Low and Anthony Filiberti's 2009s are the deepest and most powerful wines I've yet tasted from Anthill Farms, but they are by no means massive. Indeed, my thought after running through this year's set at the winery was that it was like replacing a V-6 engine with a V-8 but keeping the chassis and body the same. The wines have the agility that I think marks the house style but there's another level of power to them. Low described 2009 as "sort of a cross of 2005 and 2007, with really good freshness to the fruit but structure and power to go with it. There's nothing to complain about with the growing season, that's for sure." Like a number of the new generation of Sonoma producers I visited in March, the Anthill team said that they think they've settled into their winemaking routine sufficiently to allocate more time to vineyard work. According to Filiberti, "there's no substitute for intense vineyard management and watching as many details as possible from flowering to picking. That's axiomatic."
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