2017 Lagrein Mirell

Speaking with Christian Plattner, the owner and winemaker of Ansitz Waldgries, it’s clear that this pioneer of small-producer estates in Alto Adige is determined to put his region on the map. Located in Bolzano, which through a confluence of three valleys is actually one of the warmest cities in all of Italy, Plattner’s philosophy is to focus on the traditional varieties of the region. His portfolio covers Lagrein and Schiava, which both thrive in warm-area vineyards around the estate, as well as Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, which is planted at higher elevations (around 600 meters). Plattner recounts that only fifteen years ago, there were no more than forty small producers such as himself, and that he’s proud to say that, today, there are over one hundred. Keep in mind that Alto Adige is very much defined by large cooperatives that are fueled by hundreds of small growers. The Ansitz Waldgries portfolio was one of the biggest surprises from my recent tastings, starting with their irresistibly fresh St. Magdalener, to the evocative Pinot Bianco Isos Riserva and through a lineup of truly seductive bottlings of Lagrein. I must admit to having winced when I saw the release price on the Lagrein Roblinus, at $180, yet it managed to communicate its ranking in the portfolio. I’ll also be on the lookout for the new 2019 Sauvignon Riserva which will be released in 2021, an older-vine selection that’s matured in Tonneaux, 50% new to 50% new.