2012 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli
$70 (2018)
Italy
Montalcino
Tuscany
Red
Sangiovese (2018 vintage)
00
2012
2023 - 2038
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2018
2025 - 2031
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2017
2024 - 2032
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2016
2026 - 2038
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The 2019s from Altesino are some of the best new releases I can remember tasting at this address. The Brunello, a blend of vineyards throughout the region, is stunning with its depth, complexity and energy combination. However, in recent years, Altesino has worked to secure more vineyards in the north, except the Lavacchio vineyard, a new acquisition in the extreme southwest. As for the single vineyard Montosoli, a true northern wine, it's easily one of the vintage's top Brunellos. Its radiance is off the charts, and that helps push the terroir marker even higher. Both wines are refined for 24 months in large Slavonian oak casks. The 2019 reminded Alessandra Angelini of vintages of the 1990s, like 1990, 1996 and 1999.
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2016
2025 - 2040
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The Altesino winery is located on the northern side of Montalcino, yet it farms vineyards throughout the north, south and eastern parts of the region, with elevations ranging from 180 meters in the east, up to 300 meters in the north on the hill of Montosoli. Consulting enologist, Paolo Caciorgna, believes that it’s within the diversity of their many different terroir that they are able to succeed in most vintages, a comment that is validated by the straight Brunello and Riserva of the house, both of which I’ve ranked highly amongst their peers in most vintages. This brings up another point about Altesino, one which I believe sets them apart: their regard for terroir over winemaking. A perfect example of this can be seen throughout their range of Brunello, all of which come from a different blending of vineyards, or just the one in the case of Montosoli; yet all share the same process of élevage in the winery. From the Brunello, through the Montosoli and also the Riserva, the wines are refined for a total of twenty-four months in large Slavonian oak casks. When it comes to the Riserva, this gave Altesino the upper hand with the 2015, a wine that maintains the vibrancy of the vintage and was scored accordingly.
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2015
2024 - 2031
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2015
2024 - 2044
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With their winery located in the extreme northeast of Montalcino, Altesino still firmly believes in the power of the blend, with vineyards in the north, including the famed Montosoli, but also the south, in Castelnuovo dell'Abate and Sant’Angelo in Colle, both of which bring the warmth and power of those regions. The fact is that while much of the Montalcino looks to single vineyards and defining terroir, Altesino remains in an excellent position to make one of the most balanced expressions of Brunello in any vintage, simply by tweaking the blend. The result in 2015 is one of the best, young Altesino Brunellos that I can remember tasting, and only a notch below their famous expression of Montosoli. However, one cannot discount how important or successful the Montosoli was in 2015. Northwest exposures, the highest elevation in the cru, and soils rich in limestone give their 2015 Montosoli the combination of vivid perfumes, velvety textures, classic structure and an almost saline-minerality - it’s quite a wine.
00
2013
2024 - 2033
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2013
2024 - 2038
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2012
2022 - 2028
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2010
2018 - 2035
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Altesino has been through some ups and downs over the last few years. It's great to see these 2010 Brunellos come through so well. In particular, this year I was quite taken with the Montosoli, which remains one of the most visible, high-profile wines in Montalcino.
00
2009
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2009
2014 - 2019
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2008
2014 - 2020
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This is a mixed set of releases from Altesino, one of Montalcino's historic properties. The 2008 Brunellos and the 2007 Riserva in particular show signs of greenness and oxidation that recall the problems that plagued the 2001s a few years back. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620
00
2008
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2007
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2007
2015 - 2027
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2006
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2006
2014 - 2026
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2005
2013 - 2021
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This is a very convincing set of new releases from Altesino; only the 2008 Rosso is disappointing.
00
2004
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2004
2013 - 2022
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This a beautiful set of wines from Altesino, a historic producer that in recent years has made noticeable strides to improve quality. Altesino ages its Brunellos in cask, while the wines in the Altesi range are aged in smaller French oak barrels.
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2003
2013 - 2018
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These are two beautiful wines from Altesino.
00
2001
2021 - 2028
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What happened at Altesino in 2001? The straight Brunello didn’t show any technical flaws other than being grossly over the hill. The Montosoli was good, but far from great, and lagging behind other producers from this esteemed vineyard. As for the Riserva, a selection of the best barrels in the cellar, it showed the most balance. This is the only wine I would choose to place into my own cellar. However, the odd performance of the other two wines prompted me to look back at the reviews of my predecessors, and I thought it prudent to note a few of their comments here. “Unfortunately the estate's 2001s have proven to be very inconsistent in my multiple tastings of the wines… Underlying notes of mustiness and greenness convey an overall impression of rusticity that is out of character for Altesino...” Antonio Galloni on the 2001 Altesino Brunello Montosoli, in 2006. “If I smelled this wine out of a black glass, I would have thought I was drinking a white wine. How does one rate an oddball like this?” Stephen Tanzer on the Altesino Brunello, in 2006. With all of that said, the 2001 Riserva really is in a wonderful place today, and worth checking out.
00
2001
2013 - 2021
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2001
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1999
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1997
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1995
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This relatively large estate (5,000 cases of Brunello, 6,000 cases Rosso, 6,000 cases other) continues to produce some of the most elegant, balanced, yet ageworthy wines in the district. Created in the mid-1970s by Milanese industrialist Giulio Consonno, who purchased the 15th-century Palazzo Altesi, it has been under the capable direction of Manager Claudio Basla and Enologist Pietro Rivella from the beginning. The primary vineyard surrounds the Palazzo, situated on the low, rolling, sandy-gravelly, clay-calcareous soils located at the extreme northern limit of the zone, not far off the main road to Siena, the old Roman Via Cassia. But Altesino also owns a prime parcel in the great cru of Montosoli, located at about 390 meters just below the town to the north, with superb southwest-facing slopes composed of more clay and limestone and less sand. The wines from vineyards to the north and northeast of town on the more gently rolling and lower elevations are typically more perfumed, elegant, and soft, with less earthiness than those of Montosoli or the other higher, more precipitous vineyards found closer to town. Winemaking here is fairly straightforward, with an eye to preserving primary fruit and retaining the character of the terroirs As at most of the more progressive estates today, the wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The Brunello grapes usually see a two-week cuvaison while the cabernet and merlot get eight to ten days on their skins. About 30% of the Montosoli Brunello gets three to six months' aging in barriques Those who say that modern Brunello doesn't age well need only regard older vintages of Altesino wines. I have collected them for years, and vintages like the 1978 and 1979 are fine old wines with excellent structure, lovely finesse, and beautifully mature fruit, not unlike superior, older Medocs. This is a first-rate estate, whose wines in lesser years, while slighter, still show very good balance and drinkability.
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1993
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This relatively large estate (5,000 cases of Brunello, 6,000 cases Rosso, 6,000 cases other) continues to produce some of the most elegant, balanced, yet ageworthy wines in the district. Created in the mid-1970s by Milanese industrialist Giulio Consonno, who purchased the 15th-century Palazzo Altesi, it has been under the capable direction of Manager Claudio Basla and Enologist Pietro Rivella from the beginning. The primary vineyard surrounds the Palazzo, situated on the low, rolling, sandy-gravelly, clay-calcareous soils located at the extreme northern limit of the zone, not far off the main road to Siena, the old Roman Via Cassia. But Altesino also owns a prime parcel in the great cru of Montosoli, located at about 390 meters just below the town to the north, with superb southwest-facing slopes composed of more clay and limestone and less sand. The wines from vineyards to the north and northeast of town on the more gently rolling and lower elevations are typically more perfumed, elegant, and soft, with less earthiness than those of Montosoli or the other higher, more precipitous vineyards found closer to town. Winemaking here is fairly straightforward, with an eye to preserving primary fruit and retaining the character of the terroirs As at most of the more progressive estates today, the wines are fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks. The Brunello grapes usually see a two-week cuvaison while the cabernet and merlot get eight to ten days on their skins. About 30% of the Montosoli Brunello gets three to six months' aging in barriques Those who say that modern Brunello doesn't age well need only regard older vintages of Altesino wines. I have collected them for years, and vintages like the 1978 and 1979 are fine old wines with excellent structure, lovely finesse, and beautifully mature fruit, not unlike superior, older Medocs. This is a first-rate estate, whose wines in lesser years, while slighter, still show very good balance and drinkability.
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