2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru
France
Vosne Romanée
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir (2023 vintage)
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2020
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2023
2026 - 2044
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2021
2024 - 2030
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2020
2025 - 2038
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I met with head winemaker Alain Serveau when I visited Albert Bichot HQ in Beaune. “When I was tasting the berries, there was more fruit in 2020 than in 2003 because the vines were not as stressed," Serveau told me. "We picked from August 22 until September 3, finishing with the Nuits Saint-Georges Les Terrasses. It was a vintage that was difficult to appreciate at the beginning. The aging in barrel is very important, and I think for the whites, we will do a shorter barrel maturation, so most will be bottled before the end of 2021. The whites' acidity is low, but the pH was not so bad, and we feel there is enough_ mineralité_. The highest alcohol levels were around 15° and the average is around 14.5°. The color and tannins were easy to extract, but there were no vegetal traits." There was a little inconsistency within this portfolio, some cuvées feeling just a bit top-heavy and missing some complexity, though there are some very fine, often undervalued labels such as the Chambolle Les Amoureuses that would give many a trendier name's Amoureuses a run for their money; ditto the Grands-Echézeaux. Also look out for a fine Pommard Les Rugiens.
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2019
2027 - 2048
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2019
2023 - 2038
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One of my Burgundy epiphanies came courtesy of a 1959 Chambertin from Albert Bichot. Their wines have performed impressively in recent years. Much of that is down to head winemaker Alain Serveau, who joined as technical director in 1995. Serveau showed me through the 2019s, Alberic Bichot joined halfway through. “We have to adapt to extreme changes in temperature and rain/dryness throughout the growing season,” Serveau told me. “In 2019 we harvested a little later than 2018 and 2020 as the flowering was late due to the cool temperatures. We began picking on 14 September. It was not a terribly long harvest, as the yields were small, between 30-35hl/ha, even for the entry-level wines. What was more difficult was the variegated ripening times that necessitated going back and forth in the vineyard according to soil type, clay, limestone or sand. The weather accentuated the differences. The big difference between 2018 and 2019 was the solid to liquid ratio, especially for the whites. In 2018 you could lose 20% of the juice within four days but in 2019 you did not have a lot of it right from the beginning. This means it was easier to vinify the 2018 than the 2019. In 2018 you needed 330kg to fill one barrel but in 2019 that was 350kg. I think organic viticulture allowed the vines to adapt changes in the climate. There are three wines above 14.5° but most are around 14.0°. The level of acidity is higher in 2020 than 2019 but I don’t know why that is.” Bichot’s wines should be taken more seriously than some cognoscenti give them credit for. I found their 2019 whites good but not exceptional, apart from their fine Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc. But among the reds there are some standouts such as the Grands-Echézeaux and Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, equal to some of the more artisan names for which you might be paying double the price. Whilst some lacked a little complexity, not least the Chambertin, other such as the Fixin Clos de La Perrière represents both excellent quality and value.
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2018
2025 - 2048
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2018
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Albert Bichot's wines, including those of Domaine Long-Depaquit in Chablis and Domaine de Pavillon in Nuits Saint-Georges, were tasting at a private professional tasting in London.
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2017
2024 - 2043
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2017
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2016
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2015
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2014
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The Nuits-Saint-Georges-based Domaine du Clos Frantin, one of several estates belonging to Albert Bichot, owns 32 hectares of vineyards, of which 20 are grand cru. In fact, five of their eight bottlings are grand crus and a sixth is their flagship 1. 6-hectare holding of Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts (Clos Frantin is the largest owner of this premier cru). Estate manager Christophe Chauvel compared the wet spring of 2014 to that of 2011 but noted that after the difficult summer, the harvest began later than they originally thought, with the fruit coming in between September 15 and 22 with very little rot. “There was more difference in tannic ripeness among our Côte de Nuits vineyards in 2014 than there was in 2013, depending on soil type,” he noted.
Clos Frantin vinified only its smaller grand crus with 20% to 30% whole clusters but Alberic Bichot pointed out that the grapes are never crushed. The estate carries out a cold maceration using carbonic ice, and the cuvaison lasts about three weeks, with the temperature of the fermentation only reaching 28 degrees C. As the yields were not high in 2014, said Bichot, little chaptalization was necessary. Bichot added that the toast influence was more important than the percentage of new oak; he uses five barrel suppliers and mostly medium toast.
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2013
2021 - 2029
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2010
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2005
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