2016 Madrona Ranch

It's always fascinating to sit down with Brad Grimes at Abreu and taste through the entire range because of the diversity of sites in the portfolio and the ability to taste three vintages of each wine, something that is rare in Napa Valley. I've said this before, but I really get the sense that the wines are moving more and more towards finesse while retaining all of the natural richness that is the essence of what Napa Valley is about. As always, Brad Grimes is one of Napa Valley's most intuitive winemakers. His interaction with a vintage is like what you might see with a jazz musician, which is to say supremely flexible and responsive. The wines are magnificent, especially the 2017s, which are among the unqualified successes of the year. Readers should note that the 2018 is the last Thorevilos, as David Abreu's lease on that property expired. While it is always a bit sad to see a piece of history come to an end, change can also be invigorating. I have no doubt that will be the case here.

This is a positively stellar set of wines from David Abreu and longtime winemaker Brad Grimes. It's always fascinating to stop by Abreu, as this is one of the rare estates in Napa Valley where a typical tasting encompasses three vintages, and that naturally provides a tremendous opportunity to follow the evolution of wines over time. At this stage, the 2017s are component blends, while the 2016s are fully blended wines in barrel that will be bottled this winter, and the 2015s are, of course, all in bottle. Over the last few years Brad Grimes seems to have given these wines an extra dimension of finesse. Always one of the most unassuming and humble winemakers in the valley, Grimes says he hasn't changed anything in the way he is making the wines. But then again, Grimes is an intuitive winemaker, not a technician. In tasting, it seems pretty clear to me there is an extra level of nuance, delineation and purity that makes these wines absolutely thrilling.

Brad Grimes has turned out another set of fabulous wines at Abreu. The 2014s have all gained considerable volume since I first tasted them from barrel. The 2014s are surprisingly accessible relative to how the most recently bottled vintage often shows during my fall tastings. More importantly, the wines feel as though they are made in a less extracted style than just a few years ago. The Abreu wines stand out for their extraordinary purity of fruit and total sense of harmony. As always, Grimes picks according to ripeness regardless of variety, which means that most of the lots are co-fermentations. These remain some of the most riveting, compelling wines being made anywhere in the world. Readers who don't want to splurge on the vineyard designates will find plenty of character and early approachability in the Rothwell Hyde, Abreu's second wine.