1998 Cabernet Sauvignon Les Pavots
United States
Knights Valley, Sonoma County
Sonoma
Red
Cabernet Sauvignon
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Winemaker Vanessa Wong, who took over winemaking duties here in late 1999 when Mark Aubert left to make wine for Ann Colgin and to launch his own label, was recently engaged to be married and will be making wine with her future husband on the Sonoma Coast. Not to worry: for the time being, Aubert will serve as consultant to the winemaking team at Peter Michael. The '99 whites, from grapes harvested after a period of heat in late September, are excellent, even if they're not as superconcentrated as the estate '98s. Crop levels were well under 3 tons per acre in '99, but more like 1.3 in '98.
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Winemaking duties are now in the hands of former assistant winemaker Vanessa Wong, who took over last fall after Mark Aubert departed to make the wines of Ann Colgin and launch his own label. Wong describes the 1998 vintage as having powerful extract for the estate chardonnays, owing to tiny yields in the 1.1 to 1.3 tons-per-acre range. The fruit enjoyed long hang time, as the harvest actually began at a later date than the '97 harvest ended. Though the fruit eventually ripened thoroughly, pHs are a bit lower than usual, so these very strong wines should enjoy slow evolution in bottle.
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