2008 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard
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Steve Kistler and his assistant winemaker Jason Kesner described 2008 as "a vintage where there's very good concentration to the chardonnays but not too much." Kistler told me that his aim was "to get the wines to ferment to truly dry and to never use sugar. Sugar simplifies the fruit," he added, "and if you're trying to get real complexity, much less minerality and finesse, that's going to be very hard to achieve with added sugar." Speaking of finesse, I asked Kistler about the greater precision of his pinot noirs in recent vintages. He told me "it's all part of the fine-tuning to get to where we have expression but not too much weight." He explained that he had shortened the cold soaks of his pinot, "which seems to add lift to their aromas and has increased floral and spice character." Also recommended:
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