2022 Pinot Noir Roman Vineyard

My annual tasting at Littorai is always one of the highlights of the year because the wines encompass so many top vineyards in Sonoma County and Anderson Valley. Explorations of site. That’s what this range is all about.

Cold, foggy weather was a constant in the early part of 2023. Conditions were much more favorable in Anderson Valley, where growing degree days outpaced those of Sonoma through late May. “Between the Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley, we had the most radically different start to the year as I have ever seen,” Ted Lemon noted. “It was the exact opposite of 2022.”

July saw high temperatures that were problematic in some spots, notably Savoy, where Lemon dropped a significant amount of the crop because of sunburn. Cluster sizing continued throughout August and September, leading to fruit being dropped as late as mid-September. The Pinots were picked starting on September 20 with Mays Canyon and Richardson Ranch. All the other Pinots were harvested in October, with two picks on November 1. For Chardonnay, harvest ran from October 10 to 25, almost a month later than 2022. The Pinots were vinified with a fair proportion of whole clusters. I tasted all the 2023s from tank, except for the Charles Heintz Chardonnay (which was still fermenting). Lemon opted to bottle a handful of Pinots early because of their softness. Those wines are reviewed from bottle.

There aren’t a lot of surprises with the bottled 2022s. The whites are soft and open-knit, as they were last year, while the Pinots are every bit as exciting as they were when I tasted them from barrel. Stem inclusion is in the 20% range for most Pinots, a bit less than in 2023. Stylistically, the 2022 are quite supple, while the 2023s are more delineated.

My tasting this year with Ted Lemon opened with a stunning set of 2022 Pinots that immediately made clear what was possible in this vintage. The 2022s are deep, layered and wonderfully vibrant, with fewer of the extremes that marked some of the 2021s. I was blown away by the purity of the fruit in these wines. I tasted all the 2022 Pinots from barrel, prior to any racking, about a month prior to bottling, always a great time to taste the new vintage as the wines are in such an expressive state. Readers will want to pay special attention to the Richardson Ranch Pinot, a new bottling from a young site in Annapolis that is quite promising. Most of the 2022 Pinots saw some stem inclusion, 20-33% in most cases (the Thieriot saw none), although whole cluster influence is not especially strong, at least at this stage in the wines’ evolution.

The 2022 Chardonnays come across as a bit light in body, but those wines have been racked to tank and are, therefore, harder to assess at this stage.

“I am pretty sure 2022 saw the coldest, driest spring since 1999,” Lemon explained. “We had tiny, bonsai-like vines because there was not enough nutrient uptake. We did have good rains between April 11 and 23, though. Flowering was uneven, with a lot of shot berries. Summer was mostly cool. At The Haven we only had two days above 90 until September 1. For us, for where we were, the heat was too late and too brief to affect things. Generally, we had more water, and canopies were healthier, whereas, in 2021, we simply ran out of water in many sites. Vineyards that were used to water really struggled in 2021.”

Speaking of the 2021s, I also had a chance to revisit the entire range from bottle. The Pinots are just as exciting as they were from barrel, while the Chardonnays confirm the strength and consistency of the year.