2013 Beaune Les Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus 1er Cru
France
Beaune
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
00
2018 - 2030
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2020 - 2028
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Winemaker Frédéric Weber told me he's "astonished by the approachability and pleasure of the 2013 for the next few years." He finds the wines fruity, aromatic and approachable but he's not sure if they have the concentration and structure for serious cellaring. "The 2012s are denser wines with more acidity and tannins," he noted, "while the '14s are more concentrated, with riper phenolics." Weber told me he did a long but gentle maceration for the 2013s, and that the wines "needed time to give up their color.
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2022 - 2032
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According to director of winemaking Philippe Prost, 2013 was "colder than usual during every month of the growing season, except for July." There were only two or three nice days in August, he added. The July 23 hail storm was most damaging in Pommard, followed by Volnay, but it came early enough so that the affected fruit could dry out and fall off the vines. Bouchard picked Pinot Noir between September 30 and October 11, beginning on the Côte de Beaune. "Many people were afraid of rot, but we had pulled leaves at the beginning of July to open up the clusters," said Prost, noting that the pinot skins were less fragile than the chardonnay in 2013. He actually kept a higher proportion of whole clusters than usual (typically 10% to 30% in 2013, depending on the cuvée), as the stems helped to decrease the high natural acidity of the wines. The extraction was gentler and longer than usual, with Prost heating the tanks up to 35 or 36 degrees C at the end, but allowing the sugar fermentations to finish in barrel. As is the case with other producers who work with Pinot Noir up and down the côtes, the Bouchard selections from the Côte de Nuits are at once more pristine and more generous than those from the Côte de Beaune.
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