2008 Cabernet Sauvignon MDV
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2020 - 2032
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As the challenges of difficult growing seasons fade with time, two things happen. First, in the memory of winemakers, rain events magically become less extreme: the actual torrential rainfall that plagued a harvest shrinks to moderate precipitation and eventually to a vague recollection of moisture. Freakishly cool or brutally hot harvest weather or damaging hail storms are virtually forgotten, as the body has a short memory for pain. At the same time, as the wines themselves mature and are transformed, they reveal themselves to be less extreme after all, until at some point it can be next to impossible to find the insanity of the vintage in the bottle. I’ve seen these patterns play out again and again in temperate wine-growing areas like Bordeaux, Burgundy and northern Italy—and even in normally hot, bone-dry growing regions. Two thousand eight was such a year for California’s North Coast.
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This entire property has been replanted over the last 13 years and the last block started yielding fruit last year. Production should increase in the years ahead after bottoming out in 2007, when just 270 cases of the NapaValley bottling and 300 cases of Maya were produced. It's good to see this property back on track, as these red, rocky soils on the eastern slopes above Oakville produce wonderfully scented wines, and the cabernet franc here is, in my opinion, about as good as this variety gets outside of Saint-Emilion. Proprietor Naoko Dalla Valle told me the harvest of 2008 started in a rush on September 4, "but then we were able to slow down as the temperatures cooled."
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