2011 Pinot Noir Los Alamos Vineyard

Gavin Chanin made four of the best 2011s I tasted. The only problem is finding the wines, as production is Burgundian scale, which is to say anywhere from 2-8 barrels for each of these wines. Readers who can find a few bottles won't be disappointed, as the wines are truly magnificent. Chanin favors a pretty straightforward approach that starts in the vineyard and finishes with wines that see minimal handling in the cellar. Each year I have been deeply impressed, but the 2011s really do seem to take things to another level. Chanin's Chardonnays and Pinots are a pure joy to taste.

Gavin Chanin officially left his assistant winemaker position at Au Bon Climat in June and is now focused on his own label, with a new joint venture, Price Chanin Vineyards, coming on line with investor Bill Price (whose private and professional investments include Buccella, Three Sticks and Kistler wineries, as well as Kosta-Browne).Chanin's wines clearly reveal his five years of work at Au Bon Climat and Qupe, where Jim Clendenden and Bob Lindquist "taught me the Burgundian philosophy of less is really more."He told me that getting fruit in the wine should never be an issue here, which is the key to California's success."Getting finesse into the wines is harder, and that's what I'm after."To that end Chanin does no racking of his chardonnay until bottling but likes the effect of lees contact "without disturbing them by stirring, which adds fat but can make things blurry."