2000 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs 1er Cru

According to Frederic Lafarge, this estate harvested late in 2001, then carried out careful vinifications "for fruit, structure and length of flavor," stopping the punchdowns earlier to avoid getting dry tannins. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)

The Lafarges rely on bourgeonnage to control yields, and viticultural technique made a big difference in 2000, according to Frederic Lafarge. "We don't do a green harvest because that just mediatique(a media event)." No saignee was done because the crop level was not excessive. The Lafarges quickly harvested their Volnay vines in the days following the September 12 storm, sorting ruthlessly to eliminate less-ripe grapes, which Frederic maintained were more of a problem than rotten ones. This was the first vintage in which the domain was completely biodynamie The '99 Lafarge wines, incidentally, have turned out splendidly. Frederic says they're the domain's best since 1990, with even more obvious terroir specificity in their youth than the 1990s, which were dominated by the vintage character during their early years. (A Becky Wasserman Selection, imported by Martin-Scott Wines, Ltd., Lake Success, NY; Esquin Imports, San Anselmo, CA; and Wines Unlimited, New Orleans, LA)