2004 Riesling Sommerberg E

Jean Boxler, who told me his family's 2002 rieslings may be his favorite group of wines made here in many years, believes that 2004 is the best recent vintage in terms of the overall range of wines. "Our great terroirs did particularly well in the wetter conditions of the year. The wines are crunchy and classy," he told me. Not surprisingly in light of the Boxlers' well-situated holdings in the grand crus Sommerberg and Brand, it's the rieslings that are most impressive. Boxler compared the young 2004s to the 1992s in their fruit, balance and "easy aspect" but noted that they are more concentrated and structured wines. I found a slight exotic character to the fruit in a number of the estate's 2004s, which gives the wines even more personality. These wines have a track record for very good mid-term aging, but in a vintage like 2004 they also have considerable early sex appeal.