2015 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Millandes 1er Cru
France
Morey St. Denis
Burgundy
Red
Pinot Noir
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2020 - 2032
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2024 - 2035
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Winemaker Frédérique Bachotet had just racked the 2016 Bourgogne Rouge and Gevrey-Chambertin the week before my January visit, but the rest of the Sérafin ‘16s were still in barrels. “The malos took their time,” said Bachotet, and the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes only finished during the 2017 harvest. Perhaps partly for this reason, she found the young ‘16s a bit closed and tannic at the time of my tasting. The estate lost 50% of its production overall in 2016, bringing in its fruit beginning on September 24 and picking in just five days, vs. a normal seven or eight. Grape sugars were a healthy 12.5% to 13% but Bachotet chaptalized lightly. She prefers to bottle her wines with 13% to 13.2% alcohol “because we make vins de garde."
She likes the balance of the ‘16s and believes that their acidity is a bit more mellow that that of the ‘15s. Still, she added, the ‘15s have been good to drink from the start. She believes that the ‘16s will need “longer in bottle to taste good” but is confident that both vintages will last well. Incidentally, all of the Sérafin wines, including the Bourgogne Rouge, are aged in 100% new oak.
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Christian Sérafin's niece Frédérique Bachotet, who took over winemaking responsibilities here in 2012, told me that she really hasn’t made any important changes since then, although she has cut back on the use of chemical products in the vines. The estate harvested during the vintage’s sweet spot—between September 5 and 10—and will bottle about 10% less wine than in 2014. Grape sugars were in the range of 12.5% to 13% and the premier crus were not chaptalized. Bachotet destemmed all of her fruit as she’s afraid of greenness brought by vinification with whole clusters. The malos finished in the spring and the wines were still in barrels, unracked, when I tasted them in December. When I asked Bachotet what the 2015 lacked, she replied: “only some aging. The wines have lovely acid balance and healthy pHs.”
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