2004 Clos-Saint-Denis
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I tasted this year with proprietor Eva Reh and new cellarmaster Christophe Vial, who previously worked at Domaines Lafon and de Montille and took over here in October. The 2005s were vinified by Claire Forestier before she moved on to Domaine Denis Mortet. On this visit, I was knocked out by the estate's Clos Vougeot.
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Winemaker Claire Forestier did a shorter cold soak than normal following the 2004 harvest, followed by a "normal" extraction during the fermentation (generally one punchdown and one pumpover per day). She reports that there was relatively little problem with oidium except during a period in late July, and that hail was most serious in Vougeot Clos de la Perriere, Clos Vougeot and Chambertin. In the latter parcel, the team did a pass through the vines to eliminate affected leaves for fear that rot might develop. The not-yet-racked 2004s contained a lot of gas in November but were not particularly reduced.
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